Best Routers / Cutout Tools

A great router kit, well built and with almost all accessories you'd ever need... unless you need so – Intoduction: Some of you might be thinking "5 Stars, isn't that just some form of confirmation bias?" but the truth is, for what this kit can do,… Read more

the accessories included, and the price charged, I really can't fault this router!

Ok, I reviewed the full-sized Bosch GOF-1600CE router, and that is still going strong. However, I decided to get a smaller router for smaller jobs, and so my better half can build her picture frames without stealing mine. I have to say, I'm quite impressed with this little unit. I've owned this unit for about a month now, and trimmed a variety of materials from softwoods, hardwoods, and plastics. However, I do recommend that you take it slowly with the harder woods.

A comparison of this kit overall, with other routers in Australia:

Some routers, like my previously reviewed Bosch, just came in a cardboard box with the plunge base, and a vacuum attachment. When buying my Bosch 240V model in Australia, the complete kit just wasn't available. So I had to buy a fixed base, a router guide, and a few other pieces separately which added another 50% to the cost. Not so with this DeWalt kit.

This kit, is the ALMOST complete package. It comes with BOTH fixed and plunge bases, a router guide, vacuum attachments for BOTH bases, and comes in a nice plastic carrying case. Could the guide be better... well yes. But will it work... absolutely! Does it include router bits... well.... no. In fairness, this is true of every router I've ever bought.

A note about shank sizes, a comparison of routers in general:

Compared to my nearly 6Kg 1600W 1/2" shanked Bosch router, this 2.9Kg 900W 1/4" shanked router is going to be inherently lighter to use. This makes it's use and carrying it around easier in many ways, but it's also a little less stable, and can kick back if it bites into something it can't chew up. However, having said that, the DeWalt router is nice to use, and if I were just trimming smaller, softer materials, this router would be an ideal choice. It can certainly do hard woods, but it may take a few passes to get there. I don't have a problem with that, since it is just a good routing habit to be in anyway, regardless of how powerful your router might be. I just do a little too much large-scale, very hard wood work that needs a bigger router to do it all safely. Your needs will probably differ from my own.

Routers in Australia (and probably many other countries) come in two different shank sizes which determine which bits the router is compatible with. The larger bits have shafts that are a half inch in diameter, and the other use quarter inch diameter shafts on their bits. Obviously, you can't directly insert a 1/2" shaft into a 1/4" socket, but with a reducing collet, you can put a 1/4" bit in a 1/2" router. I've heard that there are attachments that enable you to attach a 1/2" bit to a 1/4" socket, but I don't think that's a safe approach, and I certainly wouldn't use one.

The bigger shanks are great for heavy-duty tasks. Some people are more intimidated by bigger routers, but aside from the weight, I find they're actually more stable, less likely to wander than smaller models, and are more versatile in general. But the Dewalt 26204K, despite it's comparatively lesser power, and 1/4" socket, can still do a LOT, if you use it with the right bits, care and caution. I also like the spindle lock (It stops the shaft from rotating while you change the bits)... I've had a couple of routers without this feature, and they drive me nuts!

I've used a variety of routers over the years, ranging from cheap to expensive, large to small, and even used a Dremel once for routing purposes... and that works for really fine and very small jobs too. Regardless of the router you're using, I will always recommend using goggles, dust mask, vacuum or dust extraction, and quality bits. Some people ask "Do I really need all that personal protective equipment?" and I'd say vehemently, "Yes!" Routers are notorious for generating large amounts of shavings and sawdust. Especially when routing out large amounts of wood, and things can, (and do) get thrown in all directions.

The electric controls and comments on noise levels:

Aside from the soft start (a nice graceful way to turn on the router, which reduces the initial kick on my arms) the other great speed-related feature of the D26204K router is a variable speed switch, which according to the spec sheet, range from 16000 to 27000 RPM, and that helps! Slower speeds are less likely to melt plastics or overload the engine when routing with heavier loads, and higher speeds are better for smoother cuts. During operation, I was a little surprised to find that this 900W router is actually more quiet than my 200W finishing sander, and is FAR quieter than some other routers I've used. Regardless, longer periods of exposure to noise can damage hearing, so make sure you wear goggles, dust mask, as well as some sort of hearing protection at the very least.

The Bases:

The fixed base has a twist, screw type height adjustment ring. It's a little odd, but easy to use once you're familiar with it. The plunge base is like many others, and uses a thumb lever to loosen the height lock and is spring loaded so you have to push down a bit to lower the router. Both bases are pretty easy to use, and accurate. I haven't noticed much "play" or wobble in either base.

A note about bits:

These days, aside from having two sizes, bits come in either Tungsten Carbide tipped (second hardest material known to man) or are made of High Speed Steel (HSS). High speed steel doesn't hold the edge as long as carbide. But can be sharpened (repeatedly) to a much finer edge, so when they're sharp, they place less load on the motor, and cut a much smoother surface. They may be the older style of technology, and a less popular choice, but they can do a job so smooth that sanding is not really needed.

Tungsten Carbide bits are the default in most shops, and while they are harder wearing, and hold an edge longer, once blunt, they cannot be sharpened effectively. Dropping a Carbide bit is also far more likely to chip, crack, or fracture the bit, and I wouldn't use one if it looks too damaged as it may break more while spinning at high speeds.

The plastic case that the kit comes in:

The carrying case is your standard plastic tool box, shaped to fit the equipment that came inside it. However, I don't feel that there's a good spot to put any bits in, so you'll probably be carrying those in a separate box.

Conclusion:

Overall this is a great router. It's quieter than most in it's class, it's well built, it's powerful enough in most cases to do a lot of work, but light enough to be manageable by many. I like the fact that it has soft start, variable speed, comes with two bases, and a guide, and doesn't leave a lot out. For the money, that's good value. Just keep in mind that this is not an industrial router, treat it accordingly, and you'll be fine.

I hope this helps with your decision making!

Worth the money – I’m not a professional tradesperson, just a DIY user. I’ve owned several routers before and could never get the exact result I wanted ... perhaps it… Read more

was my lack of skill or experience.

Anyway, based on very good experiences with the Festool plunge saw & Domino, I took the risk that a Festool router would somehow be easier to use and give me the outcome that I wanted, so I bought Festool’s smallest plunge router, the OF1010.

I got exactly the result I wanted on the first try. Setting the plunge depth was obvious and very precise, and when combined with the equally precise parallel fence, I was able to route perfect channels on both sides of some HDPE and make a clamp-holder that fitted exactly in the aluminium extrusions on the edges of my workbench. I very much doubt I could have got this level of precision or result with my other routers. The OF1010 is much quieter and smoother than my previous routers (some were battery powered & others 240V). Also, the position of the handles on the OF1010 makes it really easy to guide.

Yes, the OF1010 costs three or four times as much as most other routers, but for me, it is worth every cent because it gets the results and inspires a new level of confident to try lots of other router-based projects.

Handles fairly large bolts – I purchased this Mechpro Bolt Cutter 450mm on special from Repco, this was my first time using a bolt cutter. I tried it with a 1/4" bolt and a 1/8" chain. Works well and will come in handy.

Laminate Trimmer – Very easy to use, however getting the correct depth of router bit is awkward. I like that I can control with one hand and guide with the other hand. only used it a couple times and very happy with purchase.

Good product with an annoying minor flaw – I bought this product on the basis of my past experience with Makita products. (good quality and reliability). On first use of this great little… Read more

router I discovered the base protector (which serves as a guide) is not a full circle disc. Hence the distance from the edge of the base to the cutting edge can vary if you rotate the tool with respect to the reference edge and easily ruin the cut. It's a pity the designers don't actually road test their product otherwise they would discover this (now obvious) flaw. Whilst it is annoying (could have been 5 stars), I will live with it.

OK – This is a 1600W plunge router which has been superseded by the very similar model PRG-632VK. This older model can present a serious SAFETY HAZARD to… Read more

the user (see below). Hopefully the later model has had it rectified. Buyers should check carefully. It features a "soft" start (which makes it more controllable), lock-off switch, spindle lock, micrometer depth adjustment, variable speed, depth rod, guide fence, dust extractor port and cover, template guide, centering pin, 10 carbide bits, 12.7mm and 6.4mm collets, and spanner, all in a heavy case. It is a powerful router which is definitely on the upper edge of handiness at a weight of 3.25Kg. Many users would immediately mount it to a router table for this reason. The router bit selection is good, with bits for just about any profile or trimming task. The collet lock bar is made from thin sheet metal, and it will deform if the collet spanner is used with any great force. This means the collet cannot be effectively tightened any more. Unfortunately this is just what a user will tend to do, because the supplied 12.7mm collet bore is about 0.1mm oversized for the supplied router bits, meaning that there is insufficient retaining grip on the bit when in the collet. The bit therefore tends to slide out when rotating, which not only ruins the job, but presents a serious SAFETY HAZARD to the user (imagine a sharp router bit rotating at 25000 RPM, flying out of the tool). This can be easily fixed by applying a turn of sticky tape to the the plain shank of the router bit, but such should not be needed.

Good for roofing iron only – Claims to be able to cut up to 5mm thick steel plate, sadly not true as the top half of the tool flexes on the flimsy base plate and starts to wander… Read more

off the cut even when using a piece of steel camped to guide the saw. Hard to see where to begin the cut as the guard blocks any vision whatsoever. An expensive substandard tool only good for light work.