Great bike but poor BMW support
MY17 model incurred a burnt clutch. Riden boxers for more the 9 years and never had a clutch issue. Declared I hadn't poorly treated the bike. BMW questioned my integrity and refused to assist. Paid dealer around $800 to repair. Since then learnt on other forums that when using hill start the clutch often slips. I extensively used hill start; albeit, not now.
Anyway, after spending a huge amount of money on new BMW cars and bikes over the years, told BMW that they have lost a once loyal customer.
Be wary of BMW lack of integrity and using hill start.
Purchased for A$35,000.00.
Not for me...
I bought my 1200 RT after having had an 1150 GS and later a 1200 GS Adventure. The Adventure was a fantastic bike, but was too tall and top-heavy for me, especially two up. Started looking for a Honda CB1300, but my wife got me to try the RT. So I did, for a couple of hours, liked the ride, and figured, what the heck, I'm 62, time to tune down a bit. So I bought a good second-hand RT.
Now, one year on, I decided it has to go. The thing gets on my nerves. First of all, it bores me to death. I ride with the windscreen in the low position all t...he time, just to remind me that I'm riding a bike. I just can't get any pleasure from riding it. All the electronic doodahs just get in the way. I've learned to live with ABS (at least, on my 1150 GS I could turn it off), but all the rest is just technical showing off. Electronic suspension setting is nice, but I haven't had any for 40 years, and never worried about it. A radio on a bike? Come on, get real. Heated seats? Not really pleasant. The rear-view mirrors are poorly positioned (having to look under my arms is against nature, as far as I'm concerned), and I had to add after market ones on the handle bars to see correctly. The tire pressure indicator doesn't work correctly half of the time, I still haven't figured out when exactly the on-board computer will tell me that all is OK with the oil. The whole thing has taken away all the fun of riding bikes from me. And there's two things I just can't get my head around: checking the oil level involves getting flat on your stomach with a penlight. And checking the tires is a royal pain in the butt. In at least half of the service stations, I can't get to the valves with the compressor nozzle. I'm sure it's a fantastic bike. Everybody says so. But it's not for me. But I could have lived with it. Until last week.
Questions & Answers
Thanks for all the answers about what to look for when buying a used R1200RT.
Another question.......... Is there some place to register on BMW so they can email me if there is a recall on either the bike or a parts that needs to be replaced? I stumbled across a web side that mention about the rear brake disc that needs replacing. It turned out mine was one of them. I hope my nearest BMW dealer will be kind enough to let me know. But in the mean time its all wondering and searching.
Funny enough just this morning I received a letter from the BMW Group Australia with reference to my chassis number to get me to replace the rear wheel flange for being faulty. Sadly mine had failed earlier and I replaced it at my expense. So to answer your question, having the bike serviced with an authorised repairer ensure you're in the information loop.
You will not believe this... This morning i received a letter from BMW Group (customer relations manager) I was automatically registered on their website when i purchased the bike. I appreciate the service, and i think me and BMW are going to become good friends. Happy days and hours of fun on my BMW. Thanks REMCO.
I am about to buy a R1200RT it is a 2009 model. This bike was a old police bike with 44 000 on the clock. It looks very neat, But what questions do i need to ask? And what do i need to look out for?
Ask the owner if it was used for daily commuting in the city to work or used for touring. City riding is hard on the bike compared to the open road. The reason I mention that is that these bikes have a clutch at the rear of the engine that are expensive to repair...quite a job to get to it and replace the clutch assembly. Something with that many kms on it in city traffic may be due for a new clutch down the track. Of course you can gauge clutch wear by how far you have to release the clutch lever before the bike starts to move off from stationary. If the lever is a long way out - IE 3/4 of it's travel or more it is a clear indication that the clutch plate is worn. If there is a shudder as you release the pedal that is also a sign of a uneven wear in the clutch.
The engine's rear main oil seal can go and cause oil to get onto the clutch plate hence creating poor clutch performance. If there is any sign of oil under the rear of the engine (even weeping slightly) that is a good indicator of a leaking rear seal. Also check the drive shaft for any leaks or excessive movement in the outer housing. All in all they are a great bike and very reliable.. I am giving you a mechanical point of view to just check it out so you don't get hit with expensive repairs down the track. Hope this helps!
I am thinking of trading my RT 2006. It only has 33000ks on it but it is getting a bit outdated I feel.
I ride mainly with Adventure type bikes and I feel like a bit of a Dinosaur. Would the 1200R be a better bike?
A "dinosaur"? Hmmm I just rode from Townsville to Perth, 7 000km on the RT in ten days. It purrs at 130kph (in the NT :) ) and steers itself by leaning into the curve of the road. It's quiet, easy to maintain (no coolant for example), a low centre of gravity, light with high power to weight ratio and comfortable to sit on for a 12 hour day doing 1200 km Newman to Perth in one day (and I'm 65 btw). I can see reason for moving to a lighter bike eg the Honda NC700 or whatever), but not a stripped down version of the RT. I can see reason for the cost and availability of parts to change, but this aint a dinosaur. I have two RTs btw.
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