my ranger wont start, am using quick start, and its definitely over-fueling, black smoke on accelera
Family transport, used daily, serviced 6 monthly. When it didn't want to start i used quick start. However, the black smoke had started before that. Diagnostics in Kokstad said it was injectors but I'm failing to understand why it wont start without quick start?
About a year ago i had the problem of it not starting and the problem was related to the key remote but there was no black smoke. The rough idling or miss only comes in between 1800 - 2000 rpm then it goes away, still has power!
Wen very Reliable. Fuel economy not good but not terrible. Engine has been great. Got a glow plug problem that ford refuse to recognize. Transmission is about to give up again first time was at 85000 now at 234000 would not recommend it to anyone. All in all the ute has been brilliant. Very strong Engine and Gearbox but the box can't handle it for to long. I think it may be time for a New Ranger. Or a turbo Diesel Landcruiser
Nice reliable car
Smooth drive, reliable and smooth. Like to drive a lot so enjoy travelling in this vehicle. Interior is well appointed and it has a USB port which is a good feature. Fuel economy is ok but not great. Would recommend for off the road trips as well but can be a bit bumpy
Good car, great model, it that good in the long run, hope it doesn't come back Yano, kinda scary n Stuff, got better things to be doing. Let me finish this please she said she was like a good time to go back and I don't want you to know that you
Not perfect! But pretty darn good!
I've owned a PJ Ranger XL Supercab manual for 8 years now having bought it from the first owner in 2008.
We have other vehicles on the property Landcruiser wagon, HJ79 utility, Ford F350 4WD and diesel X-trail.
The ute was bought to tow our 19 foot tandem caravan as the F-350 was more suited to heavy farm duties, stock crate/stock trailer and fuel was so so for long runs. fitted with hi line ARB canopy, ECB bar 8 inch aftermarket alloys with larger 10:50 R 15 AT tyres.
The good, excellent engine, pulls from 1600rpm (even better with chip), 16l/100k with 2.4 ton caravan on back 11l/100k on open road with tools in back. I've blocked the EGR both ends, yes it does trigger the engine light but the advantages are great, no RPM limiting on mine as earlier poster has indicated. I use synthetic oils (5w-30) every 10k plus fuel/oil filters.
Quite comfortable front seating, very good ride compared with some utes and 4WD, Supercab give excellent space for fridge and extra gear, opening windows in suicide doors, gone in the later series PX etc) Not suitable for passengers unless midgets in rear seating.
I'm 6'1" in the old imperial measure and do find plenty of legroom longwise but my knee brushess the center console when on a long open run i move my leg back which I find a bit uncomfortable.
Has a much better turning circle than most equivalent utes especially the Mitsibishi Triton!
Once on the open road this thing has a broad torque band and floats over hills without gear changes.
When towing the 2.4 ton caravan it never sees 5th gear, (DON'T) . The ratio in 4th direct suits the load and pulls very well, surprises some other rigs on the long haul up to Toowoomba or the Warwick range,
The not so good.
I replaced the clutch at 75k due to a rattling noise eliminating from the bell housing, Ford service didn't want to know and stated that no warranty would be forth coming, I have been a professional heavy vehicle driver and am judicious with clutches, We pulled the gearbox/transfer and discovered that the dual mass flywheel center had repositioned itself due to worn springs (not the clutch plate or pressure plate) yes the dual mass is a two piece flywheel with a floating tensioned center designed in Europe to reduce vibration in the driveline originally for diesel powered cars, read BMW/renault/Peugot.
The flywheel center had moved so far as to not allow access to the flywheel to crank bolts with out some difficulty.
I presented the hardly worn clutch plate and clean faced pressure plate, (no heat spots) to my Ford dealer, with a blank face the workshop manager quoted $2000 for a complete replacement dual mass clutch I
Knowing via mates in the trade this is a not uncommon problem in many similar brands of utes including Subarus I went to my local clutch specialist who confirmed what I believed and showed me a stack of replacement single mass conversion kits for virtually every brand of utility on the market, by now the Ranger PX had been released....and guess what ...they're fitted with single mass clutches. Thanks Ford.
Any way for trade $1000.00 I walked out with a new flywheel, pressure plate, clutch plate, thrust bearing, alignment tool and now at 160k its still strong and actually has more clamping pressure.
Once this is done the major flaw in a manual Ranger is eliminated in my opinion!
These dual mass clutches should not be fitted to work vehicles in my opinion!
Why did Ford and Mazda switch back? Why did Isuzu use single mass clutches in all their light utes and light trucks?
This is not limited to Ford or Mazda's utes either.
Another complaint, the PJ headlamps are not great, I have switched to higher rated whiter bulbs but found that the wiring was too light for the amperage, even standard, have fitted cheaply acquired via E pay H/D wiring loom with seperate relays and have a definite improvement.
Again this is not unique to the Ranger/BT-50.
Many vehicles are running wiring looms that are too light in the wire department.
Gearbox complaints, manual I have heard some, I have yet to have a problem!
My theory is that the manual gearbox is basically quite strong if used appropriately!
IF you don't tow heavy trailers caravans in 5th , don't lug the engine in too high a gear, ie any gearbox including Road Ranger 13/18 speed Spicer 20 speed high torque boxes will suffer if lugged and the driveline vibration when lugging places a huge strain on bearings.
In 4th gear which is direct from the clutch through to the differential pinion/crown wheel uses the least no of gears and bearings,
1-,2 ,3 and 5th transfers through lay gears and extra bearings so pick an approprate rev for the gear you are in for best fuel, wear and longetivity. I hear many vehicles daily not utilising correct gear RPM choice and there is a penalty to be paid..
Having said that the ratio of 1st gear and reverse gear is too high for heavy towing and some clutch slipping may be required to move from standing on a hillor reversing up a slope!
I've done a modification that allows me to select Low Range without selecting 4WD (front axle) When reversing our caravan or moving through stop start heavy traffic with heavy trailer or load this allows very easy on the clutch by allowing the torque band to be entered at lower speeds.
This is achieved by simply placing a switch between the relay (d/s fire wall) that automatically activates the front axle when selecting 4WD, this allows 2 or 4 wheel low range. Benefit no torque steer or grabbing on a hard surface of front wheels when in low range..
Servicing - change timing belt at or before due service! ....must replace timing belt tensioners as part of process.
Replace at least rear diff and gearbox/transfer oils with quality synthetic oils, note that Ranger/BT-50 gearbox and transfer case use a lght auto transmission type oil not standard HD type oils as in the past.
The rear axle appears to be quite robust and suited to the carrying capacity of the ute,
The standard shock absorbers are good and will see fairly long service, we live on fairly average (at times very average) dirt roads so at 150k I decided to replace them and installed red KYB scorchers which appear to have very good control. The original shocks still had good movement and no oil leaks.
Replace all radiator and water hoses at 150k if not done already, check for leaking EGR's (not a problem if blocked off with S/S block off plates.
These cost around $10 on E Pay! and are an easy fit -loosen two bolts and slip in.
Loss of water will in a diesel (high compression) cause severe overheating very quickly ( a few minutes) twistig or cracking a very expensive 4 valve per cylinder head. I will replace my radiator soon, it has good coolant in it but at say 180k it can cost as little a $140 for a original spare on Ebay, the same made in Thailand unit as fitted. Heat is a diesels worst enemy.
Having said that I have never suffered overheating although the temperature guage is heavily damped and will only rise from halfway position if it is really getting hot under a heavy load.
I'm still on first brake pads and linings!
Brakes are Ok, nothing to write home about but when a load is on the brake proportioning valve biasis the rear brakes more and it does improve.
No Body rust , a small amount of surface rust on the front sump guard and area but stone chipping responsible.
CD/radio - cd player karked at 80k, replaced with a much better single DIN Pioneer unit and fitted a GME UHF below.
Pioneer radio is more sensitive and I think has a higher output, plus 2 shortwave bands for ABC and R/NZ when out the backblocks of western QLD and NT.
I am happy with the Ranger and believe if driven and serviced properly will last the distance, the engine is a pearl amongst its competitors although I have respect for the Isuzu 3 liter in the Rodeo/D'Max and the 3 liter hilux engine, note: these engines are not rated as high in torque as some of their competitors BUT when you analyse the torque curve and broadness of the band they are amongst the best.
Oh and having driven tankers for an oil company, fill up at high turnover sites, the newer volume sites will have the freshest fuel and the cleanest tanks generally, I pay the extra for the premium diesels, just a bit of insurance against contaminated or low grade diesel, believe me at times there is some S**t fuel around from shady sources.
As for an earlier comparison to a Landcruiser, the price of a dual cab 4WD 2008 Ranger was as low as $31,000 at tax time my Landcruiser wagon was $66,000 in 2005, the comparison is not fair, and yes the Landcruiser is more capable in 4WD, yet doesn't pull my caravan any better than the Ranger.
Trust this helps someone! regards Ross.
The best truck I've owned heaps of power mines the 2wd high rider love it
The ranger rides so comfy i hop in the wifes pajero so uncomfortable feel every bump.
My ranger is ok on diesel but ive orderd a power chip . And doing the egr value. Cause the engine light come on thru the egr code up think it was 401. Ill be putting the 3 inch exhurst on it. May be ordering the idrive. Should go like a power house
No regret buying this ranger
Holds the road great, added some adjustable shocks changes the ride completely.
Could have done with more leg room.
Not too hard to maintain cause parts last really long. It's a great buy will encourage anyone to purchase this, too bad they don't make these anymore. T D C I
Best ute I've had
Bought my 2007 PJ Ranger second hand: 97,000km - 3 years old. Great tow vehicle good economy. Just sold it, never missed a beat.
a great vehicle have not had any major problems apart from the 4WD shift motor that was eventualy re
First of I had a lot of trouble with 4WD would not engage even though I told them the problem (the Dealer) said they had years of knowledge and after spending a large amount of money on sensor's they finally contacted ford and were told it was the shift motor that I had told them months before and apparently 40 replacements were on route to Aussi so eventually problem fixed.
On service cost I to also gave ford the dealer the flick as a lot of the items in the service sheet were missed ,never done even wheels were never rotated a basic requirement
Ok So I bought a 2008 PJ Ranger 3 months ago. 3litre turbo diesel 4x4 dual cab and tub and it had 240thousand kms on it. Being a country boy living in the city suburbs I do a lot of trips back and fourth 600kms each way, and I do not have one bad thing to say about the Ranger except for the 70litre diesel tank on it. It really needs a 100litre fuel tank on it to get at least 800kms out of it. But at the moment with a 180kg steel bullbar on it I'm getting 550-600 out of 70 litres out of it.
But it now has 249thousand on it and I have done oil change and all the filters, greased uni joints and a timing belt just to be safe!!
I do use it for work and play as a 4x4 should be used and it is phenomenal in the bush with it being stock as a rock. Just needs a front diff locker and 33" muddies and it will beat any Landcruiser or Patrol in the bush!!
It rides like a brick but you get that with any ute that has rear leaf suspension. Would of liked the interior of the cab to be spaced out a bit better but that's just minor, the motor as far as reliability goes, I say very reliable so far and the best part is when that turbo spools up at 1800r1800rmp. The torque on these things is unbelievable. Just watch the rainy days at a corner or roundabout in 2nd gear "I've had her sideways a fairbit but that's just part of the fun". Stock stereo is pretty good, just need to put some upgraded speakers in for the better quality of sound, especially when listening to Australian Crawl!!
If you're looking for a ute for work and play and to cart the kids, buy a Ranger. But make sure you don't get one that was built on a Friday!! Cheers for reading this and yeah. Keep on trucking!!
Beware the Auto Transmission
I purchased my 2008 Automatic PJ Ranger new. I was mainly driving to work 45KMs each way Mon - Fri for about 4 years or so. Have slowed down on the KMs since then. At 165000 my automatic transmission failed. At first it became hard to take out of Park, drive or reverse due to the selector plate being too flimsy. Then it died altogether. Replaced it on 3/07/2013 with a reconditioned box at a cost of over $5000. Was told that it was a very common fault and that the Automatic specialists had them on the shelf ready.
Going great then 2 years later I was merging onto the Logan Motorway travelling at 80Ks, put my foot down to increase speed to 100Ks when I heard a bang and the tacho jumped to over 4000rpm and my "OD OFF" warning light was flashing. The auto didn't change up a gear. I got to my destination, then on the return trip home I discovered that it wouldn't change gears under any sort of load. It would only change on a down hill coast. At times I was driving at only 30-40KMs. This was at 275000 and exactly 2 years to the day, since replacing with a reconditioned tranny. So I get it towed to another auto specialist, this time they replaced the damaged parts. This time the bill was $3500. Glad to get it back, not happy without my wheels.
I drive it about 500 metres up the road when the engine cuts out. I turn the ignition key to restart and the starter just spins and makes a loud whirring noise. I phone the auto transmission guys and they come to help me. They check it out and tell me that the timing belt is broken. I check my service book and discover that the timing belt was replaced at 232000 on 17/04/2014. It had only travelled about 45000Kms. So I get it towed back to the workshop that replaced the timing belt.
I ask them to check with the seller of the timing belt kit about any claim that I can make and they tell me that as it was over 3 months ago, that I have no claim. You got to be kidding me. The Ford Ranger service manual says that the timing belt needs to be replaced every 120000. I had only done 45000. So I am now having to spend more money to get the engine repaired or replaced. They also said that the head gasket had blown and that it must have overheated. Well I can guarantee you that the temperature gauge never ever got hot. So I'm not very happy at the moment.
As for tyres, it came standard with Michlins. I got about 160000 out of the original set of tyres.
Except for the amount of repairs and faults this is a great vehicle
Brought my 2007 ranger brand new, problems with the requested accessories that came with it. I brought the XL but asked for specific add on's to be fitted. 140 ltr long range tank, tub liner, bull bar, winch, weather shields, snorkel and a light mount behind the cab.
The 140 ltr requested was not fitted, instead I got a standard 120 ltr at the cost of a customs 140 ltr, The tub liner was very badly fitted and ended scratching the tub which then rusted out (found that little chestnut out earlier this year). After 2000km i noticed a rust spot on the radiator mount, Ford said it was ok and not to worry but I really pushed the point, they investigated and found it had rust all through the front end. Ford took it back and replaced the entire front end reluctantly.
All went ok until 60,000 when the clutch went, I have own 20 cars in my life, all manual and some with over 500,000 km and never have I gone through a clutch. Ford didn't want to know about it, $3600.00 later.
Next was the EGR value, $2600.00 later and a refusal to block it off as it is a terrible product with no benifit to the vehicle at all. The the tub rails rusted out, again I had to push and push for Ford to replace these and it was only after I brought out the paperwork from when the front end was replaced noting, from Ford, that rust was also noted in the rails that they would fix them.
80,000 and both front wheel bearing went, I took that one on the chin even though every other 4x4 I have had they lasted for at least 200,000, the Ranger is not a true off-road vehicle and that has become evident.
Now at 150,000 and the Uni bearing and the Steering rack has started to go, Ford advised $2800.00 for the $75.00 bearings to be replaced and I have told them that they will never work on this or any other vehicle I have ever again... I will keep this car as I do like it and am frankly in too deep into all the upgrades I have done to it now to get another until this is completely dead and buried, not so much a choice, but a requirement to just keep on replacing the Ford products in her with parts that work as the Ford parts expire.
On as funny note Ford service tried to charge me $195.00 once for spark plug replacement, (The ranger is Diesel) I just looked at the kid behind the counter and asked for his manager who came out (knew me very well at that stage) look at the invoice and just told me the next service was on them and to have a nice day :)
Good ute but don't count on the warranty
Over 150,000ks in my 2007 PJ Ranger, mostly without drama except for a new clutch at about 50,000. Clearly the original clutch was only good for running around town, not towing or other hard work. Ford refused to come to the party despite many other clutch failures being reported on various forums. Replacement under warranty seemed to depend on how big a client the owner was. Being told I might not have driven the manual vehicle appropriately was a bit rich; I'd only been doing it for 50 years!
Comfortable cruising and towing vehicle and also great around town.
50,000 ks out of a clutch is really poor. The replacement is obviously heavier duty and has done 100,000 ks plus including plenty of towing with no problems at all.
Ford Ranger 2007
We purchased second hand ford ranger took it for test drive when we put it into gear to drive it would have a slight kick back changing any gears,we were told all fords do a little kick back after we had it 3 months it was getting worse they told us to bring it in to look at it,assessment showed we needed gear box & it was out of warranty as we had done over 10,000 km. Okay a couple thousand total 4500.00 later & took us six months to pay it off then it ran out of registration while sitting there they would not have payment plan,lost my job & ford kept ringing & wanted to charge us a holding fee which thank god they didn't.
Would I recommend buying a ford Ranger 2007 NO NO NO.The worst service provided by any car dealer
I would never by another ford ever from kings-wood.
twin cab deisel
08 PJ TurboDiesel Auto
Great! Has great fuel economy and tows so easily, never missed a beat and have done some long trips in it. Have owned 2 utes before (Rodeo and Hilux) and this is the best by a long shot. The ride is a little stiff and the interior can be harder to clean.
Fuel Eco, Power, Reliability
Suspension a little stiff
Bit of a Let Down
My 2007 XLT Auto Ranger only done 135,000 needed a new drive shaft, the spline was apparently flogged out, and when I contacted Ford was told basically stiff [word removed]. Over $800 dollars to replace, it has hardly been off-road and been serviced regularly. Not sure which I am more annoyed about, the fact that something I have never had occur in my life or their attitude, a BT50 with only 98,000 was getting the same thing fixed, so tell me??? I am currently looking for another ute and because of Ford's attitude am going to get an Isuzu, last Ford I ever buy.
I just bought a Ranger 08 the gearbox is worrying. What's the diff between XL and XLT
Gearbox plays up most times especially with air con on. What's the diff between XL and XLT? Not the best on fuel for a diesel. Airs not the best takes its time to cool. A lot of front tyre wear even after alignment. The truck only done 80000km.
Not bad for an automatic.
Only getting 500km on full tank long drive, tyre wear front nose in when full hook to park
2008 Turbodiesel PJ Hi-rider 4x2
This is a great truck so far, favorite one I've owned to date. It's great in diesel, has good fuel economy for a pickup and a lot of torque. It also seems to be built really solid and has really good clearance for a 4x2.
The interior is nice but has little "pores" in it which make it harder to clean, that's the only fault i can think of, and the pros of this truck make up for this greatly.
It carries heavy loads with ease, I use it to move cut up trees and have carried tonnes of soil in it, all very smoothly. I've previously owned a Toyota Hilux and a Holden Rodeo, both of which were okay (the Hilux better than Rodeo) but the Ranger seems to carry weight more effortlessly than both these, which really impressed me, especially since it was a little cheaper than other makers.
Reliable, tough, great clearance for a 4x2, carries weight smoothly and was a few thousand cheaper than some other makers.
Not much, interior can be a little hard to clean.
PJ XLT 3.0L Turbo Diesel Ranger 2007: Built Tough - but you can break them!
Going to be a bit long winded, but it's gonna be good - here's what to expect up to 330000Km (yes).
How is it driven?
I drive long distances every day and drive through rough dirt roads, mud, tar, snow and hills. I tow a 2000kg caravan on occasions.
At 100000km, the bonnet catch broke (was one of the first to be replaced). Done under warranty - easy fix, new bracket installed. Been in there ever since.
At 200000km - it kept popping out of 5th gear. I drove it for another 40000km before taking it to the transmission guy. Apparently, the oil doesn't go through the sprocket and it slips out. The guy said the transmission are a very strong box except for that one gear. Disappointed - for a $200 part it cost $3600 to pull and reco the box, $3000 for a new clutch (that was trade price).
At 270000km blew the head gasket. My understanding is it's not the head or the gasket but the ECR valve. Again $300 part, $5500 repair - what a joke. And I couldn't do anything about it but pay to have it fixed. Silly concept - running coolant through the valve. The valve leaks, overheats the engine, alloy head warps beyond repair. So new head, strip the old valves, gaskets and labour. My advice - change the ECR valve before 200000km and replace as a serviceable part like a timing belt.
About every 100000km be prepared to change uni joints. And it doesn't matter if you use genuine or hardy spicer (they're better), they'll come loose and with wear. I grease them every 10000km but I drive a lot of dirt roads, so dust does wear them more than normal.
Tyres and suspension:
OEM desert dueller tyres are garbage. I got 40000km out of 2 of them. The other two, piece of plastic through the side wall and rock through the other one within 2 months of buying the car. Put a set of Mickey Thompsons on - you won't be sorry (I tried coopers and perelli as well). Don't bother paying $50 for wheel alignments. Had it to Ford that many times - they're answer? If you drive rough roads it won't hold an alignment! Guess what num nutt? It's a friggin off road vehicle! Save your dollars, rotate the tyres and you'll get a reasonable wear from them. 100000km for the mickeys with no alignment.
Now onto the suspension issues. Handles better with a load, without a load the back end is a bit wild at times. The front WILL sag with the torsion bars and keep hitting the bump stops constantly on a dirt road (one thing I never fixed but should have). The back springs will squeak, but I've still got the original bushes in there.
The original shocks lasted 200000km, never put a set of Pedders to replace. The bushes will let go after a short distance and it elongated the mount holes. I went through 2 sets in 6 weeks (yes) and they stuffed the mounts. Replaced with Oldman Emus ( second set now) and makes a difference. And what might just retire the car, I broke the upper drivers shock mount. Cannot buy as a replacement part from Ford. Have to weld and reinforce. Fords answer? They shouldn't break! Well guess what? They do. Could have been a sticking shock, end of the day it's broke. But the second repair is holding up.
Someone said they shouldn't have ABS. Well I strongly disagree. While it's annoying sometimes, it's more than saved me from some tight bends on dirt roads that come up too quick. A couple of times I thought I'd be into a tree, but it slowed me down, and turned without loosing control. Any other car, I'd probably be into a tree.
One thing you do need to watch is the power from the turbo. Plant it around a wet corner and wait for the fun to begin! The turbo should have been tamed a bit - too much power in the one torque range.
Driveabilty - except for the sagging suspension hitting the bump stops, I can do 100km/h along dirt road without a problem. Seats are comfy and I can drive for 4hrs no worries. Towing slows it up somewhat but you shouldn't be towing over 80km/h anyway! Everyone hates the towbar? No - nothing wrong with it. I don't even need stabilisers for my 18ft tandem van.
Someone said it should have parking assist. Okay I park it between two trees most days. However, you do have to swing out a bit wider to park between cars - it's a big car. I have no trouble reverse parking it - it's actually fairly easy, it's called being able reverse park.
I've had this bogged axel deep a few times and it could use better snatch points. That being said - I've never been able to not recover it. Using either the towbar or front bullbar with a snatch and grab.
There's a few shakes and rattles but I expect that from the constant rough roads I drive.
They've got a 70L tank, fill her up and you'll get between 600-700km per tank unloaded and open roads. But even with a bit of long driving and city driving I still get about 600km a tank before the light comes on and you can still do another 80km before you run out! If you're towing you'll get about 400-450km per tank.
Being a diesel and living in a cold climate many a morning it won't start (inherent to diesel). I've left it out in -10deg frosts - it will start when warmer but alpine diesel only goes down to about -4/5 and it will still wax up. Solution? Diesel conditioner. -10? Not a problem, but does help if you park it in a shed!
I bought the car with 2000km on it, ex-demo. Was serviced by Ford in Woden up till 110000km then gave them the flick. Over charged, had the car all day and still missed stuff on a standard service. It was quicker and easier for me to do the service at home and at a 1/4 of the cost. Ford servicing is a joke - all because it's a diesel? Get real, they're easier than a petrol to service. I could go on an on about how ordinary the service was. Having apprentices working on the car at $14 an hour and charging $110 an hour labour plus parts!
Even without a technical service manual, they are very easy to service - one of the easiest cars I've had to work on. The service manual tells you the service intervals. Minor service every 10000km (oil + filter) about $100, medium every 30000km (oil and all filters) about $130. Major every 60000km (all oils, filters) about $200-250. Diff oils every 40000km. Timing belts at 120000km - This I leave to a mechanic. I take it to Ultratune, cheap labour and use a genuine kit (cheaper than the after market). $550 done. Because I don't need 4WD all that often, you can leave the front diff oil a lot longer.
Brake pads and discs can be changed both sides in about an hour, both sides! Changed the front pads 4 times (about every 70000km). Every time I've had a mechanic do it, the passenger side pads scrub out out 30000km. Just do it myself now - super easy. Never had to replace the drum shoes.
Loading up the interior:
I carry quite a bit of bulky stuff for work, so the back seat is full of boxes and catelogues. One pet hate is that you can't fold the seats right up like in the navaras or the new amaroks. I fit a nice large cooler on the passenger floor. A heap of interior room as an office space! When I drove a forester, interior space was an issue and no ball room!
Like the 6 CD stacker - pop some MP3 CDs in and you're set for the long trips. Doesn't skip on a bumpy road. These days it would be better if it had USB input or blue tooth.
Ford offered a reasonable amount of accessories, however being an ex-demo it came with tub liner and few other bits and pieces. I wanted a steel bullbar which had to be out sourced. A TJM bar was fitted - okay for price but hit a big enough kangaroo and they bend. I just assumed it would be an ARB bar which are much better. The fitting of a steel bullbar is not the best (a lot of ute makers have the same problem). The aluminiums fit well and are better shaped so you can remove the original bumper up to the lights,, but the steel will hit a roo at 110km/h with no worries.
Theres not many tray mounting points which make it a bit tough to strap a 45kg gas bottle on. It would be good if the chrome bar was back a bit, so it was inline with the tray if you have to mount something against it. The navaras have a sliding mount system on it which would be awesome for these.
For the amount of kilometers I've done in it, it's tough. Except for those few expensive repairs the car keeps going and really have minor issues. Easy servicing and easy to fix generally. It starts first go (except minus temps).
I'd buy another now that I'm aware of the problems. In hind sight - I should have got rid of it when the gearbox went. But at a price tag of $47000 on road at the time - you can't expect to pay it off within a few years and you'll owe more on the loan than the resale value.
Super easy and cheap servicing, very tough. Easy and comfy to drive on/off road. Lots of interior room
Annoying rear vision mirror shakes. Saggy front suspension which can cause a few shakes and rattles. Few expensive repairs. Would be good with cruise control. Ford service is a joke.
Auto Transmission Issues
I have a 2007 Ford Ranger XLT 5 sp auto that's done 114,000 kms. The transmission is rubbish. It changes roughly from 2nd to 3rd and thumps when changing from 3rd to 4th. It doesn't change down properly either and makes to motor rev hard for minimal performance. It doesn't pull away properly from a stop when selecting a specific gear. I took it to a transmission specialist who said it needs a new valve body. Unless you have $$$ to burn get a Navara or a Hilux.
Less as time goes on.
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