18 questions from our users
I have 2006 Mazda, have had it for years and been running smoothly but yesterday I felt like the car had a hiccup then the AT and engine lights on the dashboard came on. After a minute the AT light was gone but the engine light stayed the whole day. Can anyone please tell me what the issue is? Thank you.
I own a mazda2 (2005 genkii), a thoroughly enjoyable, reliable, feul efficient car, but.... had thecsame issue when i first bought it second hand 3 years ago. The engine checklight would turn on intermittently. My very very reliable mechanic (blunder road, durack, brisbane) lifted it up and gave it a thorough once over. He told me the problem wasn't in the engine at all but in the circuitory of the checklight itself. Once he replaced the said offending circuit.... Voila! No more problems. Cost me $270.
What's a good doinoises scanner for Mazda 2 Neo release 2006 in Australia?
Hello I got a RH engine mount install by Ultra Tune for my Mazda 2 2006
It came out worse off.
It now got low rpm while ilding and vibration though the acelator pedal while driving at any speed,it worsen the faster I go the vibration and between 80-110km it vibrates between the steering wheel and acelator.
My passengers can feel it.
I have replace engine mount,fuel filter, spark plugs,and tyres.
Anyone else had these issues? Does anyone know what Old Mac Mazda are like are they honest.
I have spent over $1000 trying to fix it already.
It like I'm feeling all the engine vibration in the pedals.
When decrease then give it a little more power,it slightly worsen.
I've got 4 new tyres balance and wheel alignment,even got them to check it.
Hi I have 2007 Mazda 2 Maxx since I got it second hand 4 yrs ago I'm replacing RH engine mounts continually,
Some not lasting 1 and 1/2 years, costing me 1,000 so far. Very disheartening, also done new tyres,alignment,
My motor also has vibration in it Auto any speed. This was my retirement car, so far I'm going broke supporting it.
Does the Mazda 2A hatchback, NEO DY SERIES, 2006 Have a timing belt and when do I change the transmission oil?
Transmission service every 100.000km or when it a light brown colour but if you don't know history get it done.
Every 2 years or 40.000km
Spark plugs every 40.000,and air filter replace,and brakes flush the fuild replace every 40.000km,Fuel Filter
Have just purchased Mazda2. 2006. Roadworthy and service done. Have just noticed engine light is coming on for a while. Any ideas?
DONT PANIC! This was my first real ‘omg I’m a clueless girl responsible for a machine” panic moment! I’m now educated and found I love cars, and now am involved in working as an official for motorsport! Before you panic or head to a mechanic, or even the super cheap auto electronic system decoding/reading service, do this:
Open and close fuel cap.
Ideally, also refuel (top up).
Odds are it’s an evaporation issue causing rising air pressure in the tank - and NOT the sensor being broken or the fuel system over-oxygenating as the manual, the error, or some mechanics suggesting.
My Mazda2 2006 does this when it’s been hot, as fuel drops in the tank. It’s apparently
Highlighting an air/fuel mix sensor issue (too much oxygen in fuel system, but apparently it more often is actually a sign of a broken oxygen sensor. HOWEVER MOST OFTEN, if its been warm and your fuel level is dropping - you’ve got air in your fuel tank, and opening the lid, letting the air ‘hiss’ out, and closing it again
might be all you’ve got to do! Alternatively, refuel -top up the fuel tank to full and the light will go off once you start the car again.
I’m in Adelaide and it gets very hot, and after a few days of 35-40+ degrees, if my tank is below about 3/4 full, this happens.
If I’m around half full opening the fuel cap, and replacing it again in the evening, the light will be off when I start it in the morning. if it’s less then half full I refuel ideally to full tank and again it’s gone as soon as I start the car.
I’m assuming it’s an evaporation issue inside the fuel tank caused by the extended heat. It’s clearly causing pressure as when the cap opens the air hisses out like a balloon or something, pressure relieved when the cap opens.
It hasnt been any kind of serious issue in my Mazda but as a girl with limited knowledge at the time, and my first car I was responsible for (post divorce), it scared the crap or of me the first time it came on (I read my manual and deduced the heat/evaporation/low fuel rather than the sensor itself may be at fault).
Take it back shouldn't pass RWC with engine light on.
Is this car still okay to drive with 220,000 km?
I wouldn't know for sure, but Mazda 2 and Demios are so reliable that if the car is serviced regularly, I can't see why it shouldn't be ok.....
As long as it has been maintained well, and has no major structural faults (i.e. dodgey crash repair or rust) it should be ok.
Not quite sure by your question, whether it relates to safety or cost?. For example, engines can be rebuilt, but relatively expensive exercise - if the current one is clapped out, you may be able to get a second hand engine from a wrecker, same as gear box etc.
The only issue with modern cars is the airbag system - theoretically, they are suppose to be checked and replaced every 10 years or something (my machine is coming up to 10 years but only 140,000km so will see what the dealer service people have to say!)
Test drove an automatic Mazda 2, 2005 with 39,000 kms on the clock, with the view to purchase. Engine seems to run smoothly and quietly apart from an initial variation in sound when first accelerating and lasts no more than a second or two. The current owner assures me that it has been checked by her mechanic and all is well. Should I be worried?
How warm is the engine?
It is normal to get a LOT of alarming rattles, pings, pops and all sorts when the engine is cold. The variable inlet manifold system (fancy way of saying it changes the length of pipe that air going to the engine is changed when cold) seems to create some tuning issues when running cold.
If the temp guage is halfway and it is doing this, check to see if a mazda software upgrade was done to the engine management system (I think there was only one revision in the lifetime of my 2006 car so far)
Personally i wouldn't worry about it. The change in sound is probably the VVT (variable valve timing) Remembering too that these engines can be a bit revvy as they are either a small 1.3 or 1..5 litre capacity.
I have noticed that when the engine is first started,there is a little tappet noise which stops after a minute or so after oil gets circulated around the engine. I know of at least 4 Demios/Mazda 2's of the same model which do this,so appears to be a normal occurrence.
Does it have a timing belt or timing chain?
Timing chain. That was a plus point. I may have gone overboard in my dislike of the ride quality, but it is a short wheelbase high car, so some hobby-horse rocking and rolling could be predicted. But this didn't come out in my test drive, which was mainly on open roads. The urban ride is unsettled, and unsettling. I can never relax and just enjoy driving. And I suppose the electrical faults are likely to occur with any car. Just bad luck it happened to me. It is a tough, nuggety little beast. But the upholstery is needlessly firm, and doesn't soak up what the suspension can't cope with. It does ride better with two or more people aboard, but then performance suffers. I think I just need to go back to a larger car, even if my wallet can't handle the fuel prices. I used to enjoy a relaxed drive around local seaside sights and sounds, in my lovely Peugeots. No longer.
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