9 questions from our users
It looks like they have gone bust.
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Where can i get new seals from for the inside of the tank at the glass tube entrance
have rusty water leaking from top lid of 300 litre stainless steel water tank
I suspect a fastener or clip inside tank or holding lid on is not stainless steel but should have been?, undo screws to lift off lid if rusty screw not visible outside?
I suspect balcock/ float needs adjusting to prevent water rising out top of tank?
My header tank on top of my unit did same, along with other irritating leaks & problems , I'm assuming your unit is a copper coil heat exchange type?
my 24 tube integrated system boils in summer & spurts hot water out vent pipe, is there a solution to fix this problem?
My solution was to tie a shade cloth cover over the tubes, it worked and I still had hot water, but needed to remove it autumn / winter by getting on the roof again, which may not be ok and unsafe for many people. I also had another more expensive approach reduce water leaking out from top , my unit is a low pressure heat exchange tank , mains pressure water is heated by running through 6mtr copper coil inside the hot water tank... a small ballcock tank on top that unfortunately kept overfilling the main tank, the expanding water kept overflowing ?... I installed another independent tap at ground level supply to top up the tank when I thought it necessary , every two weeks?- 1 month? due to other tube seal leaks..turning the tap off when I could hear water wasn't fast flowing through it.... no more overflows, it may also reduce the need to put shade cloth up but the water will boil, my second suggestion is only for heat exchange models, not mains pressure tanks.
This a problem with all these types of hot water systems. I have enquired how to address this with little success. I'm aware of the method of covering some of the tubes to reduce the boiling effect, but do not use this myself. I can hear water boiling in the tank on hot summer days. The reality is this type of system does produce a consistent supply of hot water, it is cheap and for the most part very reliable; the downside is a combination of noisy rumblings during summer, and some discharge from the overflow pipe.
Cant have it all, unless you want to pay 3x the amount for a different type of system.
Kwaka:- or those who have covered their systems with shadecloth was there any popping noise before or after covering the tubes ?
Loud banging on the roof and rumbling before covering with shade cloth No banging or rumbling after shade cloth but not much hot water after -conclusion -waste of time and good money / Not fit for purpose
Thats right about the rumbling noise. It is the system boiling on the roof and the transmitting of the vibration through the roof. I covered half the tubes with black 65mm ag line, It fits the tubes perfectly. Stopped the rumbling. As you say not as efficient on the cooler / cloudy days. Better than boiling hot water all over my roofing. I will use the system as long as it is working until i redeem my money on it. If after 7 yrs or so will get rid of it.
With the evacuated tubes thermosyphen system, is it possible to hook this up to another thermosyphen system I already have? I don't want to go into the reasons why at the moment .How would this be done?
Can I have two systems going and have some type of valve to connect and disconnect the second system?
The two collector manifolds could be connected in series using the one circulating pump. If one is needed to be disabled, this would be simple with a bypass pipe and a single directional bypass valve. They could also be parallel connected if the flow through each was similar or proportional to the number of collector tubes. This method would be simpler to disable one of the collectors with a single valve.
Disabling when exposed to full sun will result in boiling water and dry-out with the risk of overheating the manifold which may be problematic. Rod Anderson from SolarOz would be able to provide a more knowledgeable reply on this issue than I.
Thermosyphen systems dont have pumps. That aside is your response that it can be hooked up in series.
Hi can this system be mounted direct to the roof or dose it have to have the pitching frame?
I am a plumber and understand the efficiency reasons for having the system at 45 degrees.
I am building a new house and would like a 315 ltr system but don't want it on a frame as I think they look a little ugly also the position of my roof is optimum and don't think it needs the 45 degree pitch cheers Rory
Do you have the integrated or heat exchange model? What was your reason for choosing one over the other please?
We have the integrated model. Personally I believe they are more efficient (as you are heating the actual water you use) and by drawing from the top of the tank you are always receiving the hottest water possible which is a big plus on overcast days. Integrated systems also recover/ heat quicker once tubes are exposed to light.
Another, although remote potential issue, is a internal coil within the tank springs a leak. In this case your tanks life is over.
If you haven't already done so give Rob at SolarOz a call. He is great to deal with and been researching the best systems for years. Cheers Greg
I am looking at installing the SolarOz product and I am curious as to whether or not you went ahead with it and if so are you happy with your choice.
In the end we went with Apricus AE 250GL Mid 22 tube system because our plumber friend said they are well known in the Geelong area, work well and parts shouldn't be a problem. We have only moved in a month ago, but have had no problem, and the booster element has been switched off the whole time. We are a household of 3 adults.
The Heat Shop supplied and installed, excellent service. Hope this helps, all the best, Danny.
I currently have a gas hot water system. Prior owners of this house ( some maybe 10-12 yrs ago had an electrical hot water system in the roof cavity which is still there.I have a 5 kw solar electrical system on my roof ( installed in the last 12 months.I am looking to replace gas with solar/electric?? My view is to utilize my solar system for most power utilisation & dispense with all gas sources. Can you give any advise as to what system I should looka at & some costs associated with this
From my research definitely go with an evacuated tube system as they are much more efficient, generally you can go 1 size smaller than a flat panel type system. You have 2 options are approx same price. 1 a split system with tubes on roof and tank elsewhere (potentially your existing one) with a small electric pump to transfer water from tubes to tank. 2, tubes & tank together (my choice) externally on your roof. Both systems will have an electric booster for overcast weather. Whichever system you choose make sure the water does not travel in the tubes as cheaper systems do as if a tube is broken water runs continuously. Better way (but more expensive) is the type I bought where the water remains in the tank while the tubes have a coolant substance. Price, I think you would pay approx $2000 before rebates. I didn't claim rebates because due to paperwork & the price was half what other companies where charging anyway. Call 0401520442 for a chat as PR limited answer length.
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