59 questions from our users
Hi all. I am considering fitting a dual exhaust system on my 200 series 2012 T/D cruiser for several reason incl better breathing for engine, added performance whilst towing a van and of course---better exhaust note for the V8. Can anyone comment on this. Many thanks. Graeme.
I had similar work done to my79 series by roo systems, google them to find the range of modifications for your 200 series. If your model has a dfp then you will be very impressed with their video of results achieved.
Another issue that really impressed me wjth roo systems is their quality of good advise and after sales service, anywhere in australia.
Many thanks for the info mate, I will check the video and contact them before deciding.
the Manta exhausts are very popular and are available Aust wide. They have the best range and quality by far! I have a twin 3" into 4" on my 2016 200 Sahara and very impressed! 1300310330
Hi I have a 2010 vdj79 ute and my steering is very stiff ! Have put a reco box in and still have free play and stiff steering. Any ideas?
do you have larger than standard wheels? what tyres and tyre pressure are you running? note these are a serious 4WD and as a result have steering dampeners in them so of course they have play.
Your power steering pump belt could be slipping or broken, pump oil low, power steering pump failed or an air lock in the system, is fluid returning to the fill tank, should be no free play.
I have a problem with my 2012 V8cruiser, it starts up first thing in the morning then 30/40 seconds stall, I prime the filter and get it going and then its all good for the rest of the day, I can drive it to work let it sit foe 12-13 hours and not a problem leave it over night and we go through the start again. I have replaced the filters check the fuel lines loosened the fuel cap all to no avail, I'm thinking electrical, any thoughts out there?
I have not had this problem on my Landcruiser, however I have had a similar problem on my WH V6 diesel Jeep. You haven't mentioned checking the glow plugs, on my jeep there is a plug in module called the glow plug control - using various sensors on the motor this determines if the glow plugs need to be utillised during starting, the strength and duration of the glow plug run.
Leaving it overnight means the engine has cooled down to ambient temperature and hence - glow plugs are requried to preignite the diesel during start.
Another related issue that I have had with my Landcruiser is regarding the fuel pump - even though the filter cartridge had been replaced during service at Kununurra - the pump had not been removed and cleaned resulting in intermittent starting issues. This was resolved during a Toyota dealer major service at Port Stephens on my return.
Another line of query for this - is your fuel system holding pressure overnight - when you do your cold start, what is the fuel pressure? - a DTC reader may tell you
Another suggestion I make - for the long term is to fit a DTC scan device. DTC stands for Digital Trouble Code and is a standard applied to all vehicles, basically if you are on the road in a remote area and your vehicle goes into limp mode for some reason - the reader will read the code - identifying the area of concern, in some cases the reader can clear the code - removing limp mode.
Hope this helps
Really appreciate the comments, not to sure about glow plugs though as it starts first go, I like the fuel pump idea and the DTC.
Same thing happened to me seemd fuel issue but it was battery.Try a new starting battery.Make sure you clear ECU, when battery is out turn ignition to start to remove all residue power.
Love my dual cab ute but have a question for anyone who may live in far noth WA , NT or QLD , if any one has a scan gauge what temps are your cars running at on a hot day, mine says 93 - 95 degvwhen at 115 to 125 below 100 cools down to mid 80,s is this normal , temp at home is around 40 to 43 at the moment .Thanks
I have a 97 Troopy with engine temp monitor and my temps are up about 95 deg on a 40 deg day when doing around 110. Pretty normal I would say, especially with the air con running as this creates extra heat in front of the radiator. Don't forget the pressurised coolant wont boil until it is somewhere around 110 deg so your temps are within range even with the extreme conditions.
Got 2013 V8 ute has a problem when driving at speed around a left hand turn the the power dips dramatically for a split second as if a fuel blockage,but this happens only on a left hand turn. Please advise?
Same problem as mine, I have a 2014 and occasionally when accelerating around a left hand turn power drops out for 1/2 a second then recovers. It can happen once or twice in a row but won't do it again for 5000 or 10000 Klms. It has done it since new but as toyota said if it aint doing it when they have it they can't fix it. A bit annoying when you get out in the desert and your not sure if its going to die altogether. I have 120000 Klm on the clock. Have you done any mods to yours, mine is stock standard except dual batteries ect. I think the only way to find out is to have one of those ecu recorders fitted and hope it picks up the glitch when it eventually happens again.
Yes had some mods,turbo exhaust intercooler remap,fuel manager,my glitch is more frequent doesn't sound like modifications,also asked Toyota but they are clueless
My 2007 V8 Ute was doing the same thing. I fitted an electric lift pump to it an it fixed the problem.
I hav double cab v8 cruiser 1vd engine has done onmy 33500km bought last year and the clucth is slippin sometimes any idea why
Is the engine chipped? If so this would not be an uncommon problem.
No its not chipped just installed performance exhaust like 2months ago n it started and it does not do it al the time its like when u accelerate hard on gear 3 and 4 when u lookin for the torque thats when it does
These vehicles are well known for clutch slipping, if you get warranty it might be a good idea to put a heavier clutch in.
I would try for a new clutch under warranty, put a few dollars in to get a heavy duty one.
Hi I have a problem with my Toyota landcruiser 70 series that when I take turn left or right at speed of 50 - 60 km/hr the vehicle strat bubbling so badly and I must have to stop the vehicle this phenomenon sometimes happens when vehicle go straight also . So please if any one know about the solution kindly tell me.
This may help! I drove around Australia and had a speed wobble at 60km/hr so bad I had to drive though it to 70 then 80 and so on before the shake disappeared .. I finally discovered after asking every tyre outlet what it might be and the problem Was the nut on the end of the steering arm required tightening and only then did it disappear to my delight., hope this helps Cheers M
Hi my 2013 dual cab cruiser ABS goes of with heavy braking at any speed on slippery surface I mean shudders and makes loud growling noise through the foot pedal Toyota are telling me this is normal can anyone confirm?
Yes that's normal with the abs on the cruisers.
Hi Guys, Looking at buying a 2008 GXL Landcruiser ute with 280,000 ks. Any info on this model would be greatly appreciated, good or bad. Asking price is $36,000...Thanks :)
I would have a diesel mechanic check the motor re oil usage
Thanks John very much for your reply, will do.... Janet
Hey Janet Jones. I don't know how old your post is but if its recent then I have good advice for you.
Firstly, you did not sepecify if the LC was V8 deisel or Petrol. I shall assume desiel.
Have the car taken to a reputable Toyota dealership and have the pre-purchase inspection done there. There is a valuable reason I advise you on this which will become evident as I make my point. Ask then to carry out a compression test and Fuel system check and report amoungst the other obvious checks that are done. Be aware that on the normal run-of-the-mill pre-inspection checks any mech will do they always cover their backside with fine print saying that they give no guarantees as they have not carried out a check of the motor by pulling the engine apart and carrying out a forencic check.
So, by asking for a report on a compression test on each cylinder and comparing against the factory standard and by carrying out a fuel system check and report, then any mechanic can tell you what condition the motor is in, upon which you can make an informed decsion to purchase or not. You may ask, "wont that be expensive?" Well let me tell you a little story that Toyota will not and many mechanics are unaware of. I am not saying all mechanics but I am say most mechanics.
Recently, Christmas 2017, my daughter and her husband, along with two pre-scool children set out on a 12 month Round Australia. Prior to setting off they prepared for this trip well and one of the things that they did was to sell their Twin Cab Mitsy and purchase a 2008 Toyota GXL V8 Desiel. They had an NRMA pre-inspection report done. (the vehicle was ex NSW). The Land Cruiser came up glowing and the report was very favourable. (with the fine print, of course). My son-in-law and daughter purchased the Land Cruiser and could not wait for its delivery via a vehicle transport truck. They sent me photos of the car which looked beautiful. It had every conceivable extra on it including 4 tyres on the road and 2 tyres on the rear which were serious off-road tyres.The car was like a charcoal colour, very nice looking. My first impression, being cynical, was, with all this off-road equipment on it had it done some serious off-road work. I said so to my son-in-law but he and daughter were so besotted with the look of the car and the glowing pre-inspection report,you know,..... "what would old Dad know.
Well they got to Tasmania, and we had made arrangements to meet them at Mt Gambier to spend two weeks travelling and sight seeing with them as we too have a caravan.
We got a phone call from them when they hit melbourne, we were at Mildura at the time heading for the pre-organsied meeting point. My son-in-law told me the Land Cruiser was blowing a lot of smoke and it was using two litres of oil every 300-400Kls, also, pullig the caravan it had become very slugish. He told me that they had called in on a mechanic and were told by him that they needed a new motor. Cost $28,000 -$30,000 depending on wether the Turbos required a rebuild. I said don't worry, that info sounded like a con by a mechanic looking for work. I also said that it was very probably a turbo seal needing replacement, but a new motor........ 'No this was a Toyota Land Cruiser and they were good for 500kls '.
I used to live in Ulladulla (now on the Gold Coast) and had some very good friends in Ulladulla, one of which was a desiel mechanic and a long time Land Cruiser owner. I checked with him and the word was all go. I advised my daughter and son-in-law to meet me at Ulladulla where my friend and I could check and repair the turbos if necessary. Both of us had experience replacing car motors of old but bever a V8 Toyota desiel automatic.
When I arrived at Ulladulla, my daughter haveing arrived before me, the first thing we did was to carry out a compression test on all cylinders. The 4 cylinders on the left hand side of the motor came up between 10 and 30 psi. The 4 on the right hand side of the motor were between 85 - 100 psi. The first assessment we made was to concurr with the old mechanic who had diagnosed a new motor requirement.
We commenced to dismantle the front body work to prepare for the engine removal and I had ordered a brand new Toyota Land Cruiser LC200 crate motor which cost me some $18,000 delivered. The engine was complete exept fot the electrical things like starter motor, alternator, fuel system (excluding the fuel pump which was included with the crate motor) also things like the after cooler etc were not included. It was just the motor and we had to reuse all other componentry which wasnt bad as those items were not a problem. We checked the turbos and the left hand one was completely shot and the right hand side turbo was ok. We took both turbos to a turbo specialist and had them rebuilt as to change a turbo, or a starter motor, or many other things the motor had to be removed and we did not want that ordeal again. It took us about 3 weeks and the car was on the road again and working perfectly.
So what went wrong. Well, the motor was dusted. Did you say what is dusted. ok I'll tell you.
The previous owner of the vehicle was obviously an off-road nut as predicted by me when I first saw the car. The car had done a lot of work in red dust. This was not obvious until we dismantelled the body work from the car, like gear box cross members which had to be removed to take the motor out and many other areas of the car which were previously concealed and a steam clean did the job well but not in areas where the pressure clean did not access. The dust had bypassed after market air cleaners and got into the fuel system. This dust when mixed with oil, completly wrecked the fuel system, engine and turbo. Luck had it that a new fuel pump was included with the crate motor as a new pump would have cost an additional $1,800.
Not including the three weeks labour for two men and a son-in-law the dollar cost was $20,000. So the old mechanic that told my daughter and son-in-law that the job woul have cost $30,000 was spot on.
Incidently, I have a 2018 Land Cruiser V8 Desiel VX and the motor we purchased as a replacement for my daughters car is identical to the one taken out of the car (2,008) and exactly the same as a new car engine as my VX. No difference in engine by Toyota since 2008 to current model.
Moral of story .... Had a cylinder compression test been done and a fuel system report been done the car very obviously would not have been purchased. It became a very expensive car as the purchase price was some $45,000 plus the $20,000 I had spent, but not including $10,000 worth of labour which would have been necessary if you do not have a mechanic farther fit enough to do the work with a qualified mechanic on tap and daddy being able to pay for all the parts needed. This would have made the two tests I noted as being very inexpesive considering the alternative. Remember you have no come back against the pre-inspection mechanic.
I bought a 2013 '79 series GXL Land cruiser single cab ute with 36,000 k's on the clock from a Toyota dealership. It was in great condition, very clean. (It did have a towbar). I have done 7,000 k's in 5 months, no towing, no loads and no off road and the clutch is now slipping. I had my 40,000 service with said dealership to keep warranty and to get 2 year extended warranty. Dealership now confirms I need a new clutch. Quoted me $3,000. After making some noise they have offered me $500 off that price. Should I accept or expect a better deal? I know my warranty excludes clutch but there is good will and their reputation involved.
Gday Pete , not sure if price is good or not , fortunately i have not had to go down the new clutch path as yet and i am sure hoping to get a couple hundred thou ks at least before any sort of clutch inspection . Guess all i can suggest is go for the heaviest duty clutch you can put in if you intend to tow weight. You would have to think maybe your new rig has copped some serious abuse in the towing department with a clutch gone at those low ks , hope it wasn't a mine rig they can get totally hammered .
Who know what happened in the first 36,000 Klm?
Warranty is for defects in material and workmanship. A defective clutch doesn't take 40,000 Klm to fail.
Sounds like whoever had it before you stuffed it
I have a late model Hilux well I suppose you could say it's one with the lot and I have a small problem it won't carry the weight I need, I do a lot of dirt road work and dunes work not for fun either .
So it's onwards and up wards I am seriously looking at a new/ 2015 2016 duel cab 79 yes I know this is going to hurt after spending $23.000 on the Hilux now I have to do it all again well someone's going to buy a good lux.
I have read some of these blogs were you guys are getting 10-12 ltr per 100 klms sounds great please advise on your running gear please and any other after market do dads you have, I have been looking at Marks 4wd conversion kit which gives the truck 6 cogs hey and brings that rev gauge down to buggerey that's the problem fellow from what I have read the V8 needs to be quietened down and the joey box surly does this .
Go google it on YouTube it very to the point
I don't believe any claims below 12 mate. People don't calculate it accurately by brimming tank, driving then brimming tank again. They use the fuel gauge which is not even close to accurate! Same goes for scan gauges etc
hi, i want to put a oil pressure and a boost gauge in a pod on my v8 land cruiser ute and was wondering if mechanical gauges are still compatible or if it is easier to just use electric and how easy are they to install?
I am not sure about putting extra gauges on because mine is factory standard, but maybe call an ARB or a similar place and they will know everything about it. Sorry I couldn't help you out.
Thinking about getting the Toyota land cruiser workmate SUV 2011 model. I'm not convinced on fuel consumption with a v8. How would it handle on highway diving 1 hour and a half daily?
the landcruiser has excellent fuel efficiency for the size of its motor. I can manage to get it to do about 10-12 liters per 100km if you change gears at the right spot and the tanks can last about 1500km on the tanks. It also goes along easily and is very comfortable and consuption does not go up much when your towing. I would 100% recommend it. I hope this has helped you out.
I also get around 10- to 12 ltrs per 100klm my consumption increases towing but i am hooking on 3 ton in the old language and the 4.5 tows effortlessly , the alloy diesel
v8 has copped a fair bit of stick over the last few years regarding high fuel consumption . I think if you drive them like a race car they have a drink , but if you remain within
the speed limits and drive a little more sedately they are great on fuel , common sense must prevail or they will cost you $ .
don't know how these blokes drive there cruiser (Possible Toyota talking up there product ) but my 2012 work mate only gets 13 to 14 lt per 100ks (hwy cycle)@ 100ks per hour if you put a 2,500 kg van behind it don't expect to get anyless than 20 lt per 100ks @ 80ks per hour. I have done over 120,000 around this great country and that's it . have spoken to other travellers and they all say the same thing
Has the 1vd in the 2015 vdj79 been down graded in the horsepower ratings compared to the 2008 model?
no. the single turbo version (70 series has 155KW ) however there is a twin turbo variant in the 200 series @ 195KW. some say there are some minor revision giving better fuel efficiency in later models. I have a 2014 76 wagon and with the lighter weight is very agile for a full size SUV. I get an AVG of 8.4L per 100Klms. An important point is that the gear box won't support fast gear changes so power only matters with towing or heavy loads. a 3" exhaust, Steinbauer chip and a K&N air filter will give you excess power for around $4000.
we are just trying to determine if the 2015 1vd single turbo version has had a horsepower decrease in comparison to the early ( 2008 ) 1vd single turbo as we have a customer with the latest model 79 ute added to his fleet and was told it lacks power in comparison to the earlier models because Toyota have detuned for some reason, possibly mining industry requirements.
They all vary, they haven't changed anything power wise whatsoever. Some cruisers put down 90 odd kW to to wheels others are as much as 115, even on same dyno.A new one with bugga all k's takes time to free up, if he went straight from an older we'll run in to a brand spanker, this would explain it! My 76 did not free up until around the 10,000 mark, prior to this my mates 79 with 80,000+ felt freer revving and more powerful.
What is the best way to get horse pawer out of it?
There is no simple answer because even a moderate increase in power and torque can put strain on the clutch and you will still be confronted with off-road gear ratios. It depends on why you want more power. I Frequently tow the maximum weight with mine (large horse float) and it does fine. I have on my shopping list a steinbauer chip, and a Beaudesert 3" exhaust. I already have an upgraded snorkel, air cleaner, clutch. One you have all these expect 30% more power and torque. Just don't expect to win any races.
They do have potential with mods,exhaust makes them much more drivable. I never purchased a system, just got rid of all factory from the dump back and replaced that with 3" right through. Still factory cat in dump so it's not obnoxious or illegal.Cost less than 1/2 the cheapest system.Without running a chip, you're not going to get a noticeable gain running a full system VS what I have done. When I chip mine I will get a new larger dump pipe and high flow cat. Next thing I did was sort out intake restriction,you can simply replace head or do what I did, remove every second fin in the factory head.vehicles much nicer to drive now, less laggy and more free revving, ESPECIALLY in the upper rev range.
Down the track I will be installing full EGR delete (which requires special chip to stop it throwing codes) when I chip vehicle,upgrade clutch and upgrade last section of exhaust. Mines only 9000k young and I want to let it get a few k's under belt before going extreme.
As carmoda pointed out you will find other limitations prior to maxing the engine out! Drivetrain can't handle the potential of this engine, which in marine guise(larger turbo and injectors ONLY) put out 270+kW. I would not recommend going past 200 at the wheels,which is pretty well limit of factory turbo, as you will destroy drivetrain pretty easily!
hi, I am looking at a V8 76 series landcruiser. fuel economy is 11.9 rated from Toyota. is this a good guide?
I spoke to a guy recently with a 79 ute, he said he gets about 20 Litre per 100km, he was carrying a bit of weight.
I am at putting on most modifications like all bar work, roof rack, 2 inch lift and 285 tyres. will fuel comsump. go thru the roof? I live in country NSW so not doing much city driving, thanks
i have a 2014 (12 month old this month) 76 GXl and i get 8.4 - 9.2 per 100klm. I have a Scanguage that i keep calibrated so it's accurate. My mate has a double cab with a big canvas covered steel tray and runs chunky tyres. He gets 11s. I think perhaps in-between the builds (his is 6 months older) toyota changed the ECU. eitherway it uses a little bit more than my old D4D Hilux did. The Scangauge helps you to understand how your driving effects fuel consumption, and as they are incredibly cheap and can be installed yourself in 10mins totally worth fitting. Wider tyres, lifts and bars will effect fuel consumption. However the biggest effect comes from larger diameter tyres. They will destroy your fuel economy and acceleration. They make certain ground easier to transverse. Popular with wankers because it makes your truck look fully sick mate. I run standard sizes and have no trouble.
You will love the 70 series if you look after it. They are bullet proof but only when maintained. Like anything. Not many trucks these days that you can conceivably keep for 10 years. I did up-rate the stereo as that was [bad word removed]. Ryda.com.au. double din units fit straight in. you'll need an amp as the cabins are a tad noisy.
join this forum for solid advice and FAQs. http://www.lcool.org/forum/index.php
thanks mate for your email and info, very helpful.
I think maybe the newer 76 series models have better fuel economy than the older models (07 - 09)
Want to buy 2011 gxl with 15 k's on odometer. Ex NSW Ambulance troopy. Asking 50k for it. Is it a good price to pay and being ex government is this fact necessarily a bad thing? All bookks et provided with truck. And a five year warranty is available as well. Really would like your personal opinion, Thanks....
no i wouldn't. low millage is nice, but when it is very very low for that age is introduces other questions and potential risks. there were loads of super low millage 100 series coming out of the auctions in QLD a few years back. they were ex speed camera cars and from years of idling the engines were trashed. if you have 50 to spend on a 2nd hand vehicle i would suggest you could afford a new one with the low interest rates available on a new car purchase repayments may be the same) for instance look on a low rate of 6 years. if you ring different toyota dealers you'll get some great prices.
Thank you so so much! I'm in a lucky enough position to buy a new Cruiser and your advice confirmed a few worries. I'll buy a new or near new one and cant wait to post a review. Thanks again.
I am not sure the car to buy. Options are:
1. Toyota Land Cruiser wagon workmate, 10/2011, 72000km, lift kit, new mud tyres, roof rack, bullbar.
2. Toyota Prado GX, 01/2012, 56000km, new mud tyres, bullbar.
In this case Prado is $10k cheaper than workmate.
I don't have anything to tow, and I will not tow anything.
What do you suggest?
Whichever you will find more practible? More off-road and gear loaded in the car landcruiser. Around town 4x4 that occasionally goes bush and is better on fuel prado
At the beginning will be occasionally off-road. In 6-12 months time we want to do a long road trip around australia, for sure there will be some off-road, maybe not really extreme.
If you want to do serious off roading go the 70, if not the prado is much better option.
The only reason to buy a 70 is for off road or heavy duty towing.By the sounds of it the prado would be better suited to your needs.
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