Cuts ok but not precise
Terrific price if you want to simply cut small stuff fairly accurately. It generally does what it is designed for except the following.
1: Cut Crooked and instability; the bracket supports are weak so if you encounter resistance through the Downward cut It may skew slightly. This is not a problem unless you need precision joints like 45^ mitres. The machine is not vertically precise anyway and no gauge to show vertical axis precision. You have to use a set square between the blade and the deck by eye to adjust.
2. The gauge that shows the a...ngle like 0 degrees ( square cut) or 45 degrees (mitre) cannot be trusted. Mine is always about 1 degree out which makes joints look terrible. 3. Limited cut width; well that’s what you get for non sliding 210mm blade. The next model up a level would be a better purchase.
- Verified purchase
Reall Solid Buy for general use.
As a DIYer I go for safety and ease of use. Versus a hand circular saw it's both easier and safer and I use it when I can instead of that other option. Mine is the extending version so don't go on the price quoted but all else is the same.
I think the instructions were second rate but it's not hard to work through either in spite of this, IMO.
I think the blade is general purpose. It's plenty for cutting wood for a shed say or even any wood that will be painted. For fine work with good hardwood its tendency to leave a slight splinter at ...
Awesome value and perfect for DIY!
Bought it for cutting pine and melamine particle boards and it has been awesome. Haven't had to adjust it out of the box. For building stuff around the house like wardrobe shelves, etc it is perfect. The blade it comes with is fine however haven't known any better. If you measure it accurately then this will cut accurately.
Purchased in July 2019.
- Verified purchase
For what you pay, it is fairly decent. DIY use only.
I bought this for just shy of $80 at Bunnings. The saw blade is fairly decent, cuts through pine like a hot knife through butter. Cuts fairly well through thick heavy redwood.
The saw blade is not completely aligned, I had to align it with a speed Square to get Square cuts.
But for $80, I am very pleased.
Very easy to set up, nice solid and heavy, I don't feel like it is cheap Chinese crap, but it is certainly not the same quality as a $400-$500 compound miter saw.
Would I buy it again? Definitely!
P.s. I will try and calibrate the miter again tonight, and see if I can get the 0 degree "click" to be at 0 degrees.
- Verified purchase
Good for little jobs around house.
I bought this compound saw to complete small jobs around home.
The saw does what it describes it should do. I bought it for $48 on sale which was fantastic. It came with a 3 year replacement warranty. You simply can't go wrong with it for tiny jobs. Ozito have definitely come a long way with their quality.
I bought this saw from bunnings for $79, to build a little bed side table.
Initially I was far from happy. The bevel and mitre cuts were more than terrible. And I basically wrote the saw off.
But then I went back to bunnings purchased a new blade and a digital angle finder.
With the new blade on and my angle finder I set to work adjusting what I could.
And now it's great. Extremely clean and good looking cuts that are square and accurate.
Summary: Cheap blade just has to be replaced. Will need adjusting out of the box and marked angles on the saw aren't correct. For $80 + $30-50 for a new blade it's excellent.
This is SO much better than having no mitre saw!
$80 plus $30 for the replacement Irwin blade. I never even tried the OE blade. Sure, it's a lot of money, but when you compare it to the price of materials, it's cheap.
I built a big box. The outside was 6 mm plywood and the skeleton to line it was 18 x 40 mm pine. First EVER "joinery". Cutting the pine was a pain. Saw too slow. Circular saw to clumsy. Reciprocating saw too inaccurate. I was dreading finishing it.
Bought the saw.
...My life changed. Want to cut wood? Zzzzzt. Done. Square (actually checked). Too long? Zzzzzt. Repeat until correct length, or slightly too short. In the end, I could reliably shorten the end of the timber by a fraction of a mm. I would touch the wood to the side of the cutting disk and above the cutting teeth (which stick out a bit each side), lift the saw, start it, and dropt the saw once or twice. With a tiny puff of pine, the end of the wood would disappear by about 0.2 mm. Magic. You might consider if you want the considerably more expensive sliding saw. Me, I don't care. I have a circular saw for wide stuff. Oh, I zeroed the blade without problems. I checked the square with a thick aluminium right angle I got for the purpose. It cuts square and stayed that way. What more can you want?
Questions & Answers
I want to cut some light steel railings for fencing posts. Is this saw suitable for that? I figured it might be more accurate and safer than using an angle grinder.
This is a wood saw, you would not be able to cut steel with this.
You would need an angle grinder and a cut-off wheel, or a steel band-saw (needs to be designed to cut steel) or hand saw designed to cut steel (like a hacksaw) to cut the rails.
If you were to try and cut steel, you would likely catch the railing in the saw, and destroy the machine and likely injure yourself.
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