Victa Lawnkeeper LCS464 (18", 4 stroke) Questions & Answers

You probably wont specifically get the Lawnkeeper chassis i don't beleive as they are a long discontinued model. Theyre the same as the basic 18" steel Victa deck but without the front chute baffle to save on costs, so any similar 18" Victa deck will do the same job. Its unknown to me whether any service network members would still have stock of or be able to get in the older style bases, as the design has been revised in the past few years. These newer versions of the bases are still available as spare parts through Victa as they are used on current models, and are compatible, however the price of a replacement base may well be close to what the mower cost brand new, as these were a low cost model.

For what its worth, any Victa base of this style will be compatible with this engine as will most non-Victa bases, so you may be better served to look for a secondhsnd mower with a good baseand shoddy engine, even a 2 stroke as they use the same deck also, and relocate your engine onto the good deck. If you use most non-Victa decks, you will not need to use tye black plastic spacer ring or the blades will sit too high (when first built as a 4 stroke these used an engine with a shorter crankshaft end, but to streamline manufacturing, they changed to a conventi9nal long crank motor with spacers held in a plastic ring.)

Firstly, check that you are not running the mower past high idle as you could be running it on choke little. Once done, see below; This is caused by the engine trying to maintain a constant rpm, but it can't due to either air intake restriction, fuel restrictions, or spark breaking down. Check your air filter for blockages/grass/dust/dirt and condition, by now it is most likely deteriorated somewhat. If so, find a similar density foam, cut to shape of original filter and fit. To check/test density, blow through the old filter and the new material you intend to use - a similar resistance should be experienced. If the filter is fine, remove the fuel tank and flush it with methylated spirits, remove the carburettor and give it a good rinse with metho or clean petrol. If these methods still do not work, sing out - there are a couple of other things to check.

I’ll have a look for you when I get home next weekend.

Rear right hand side of engine under the deck. 3/8” square drive bung.

Hi BenE, Please contact your nearest dealer/service agent in order to have your machine assessed and/or order the required part(s). Please copy and paste the below link into your internet browser and enter your postcode for a list of dealers/service agents closest to your location.

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Hi, Wide question with different answers possible. I would check first the spark plug, then the air filter, they are the worst offenders in non starting issues. Wire brush for the spark plug and you can actually wash the air filter.

If it doesn't change, I would check the fuel, if it's been sitting in it for a long time you lose ignition, so mix it with some fresh one.

And the last one is the gaskets, old gaskets are stiff so you lose the nice pur of the engine, you get high rev then it goes down... uneven revs... that is a more technical job, easy to do but if unsure give it a service from a professional.

Last advice check the oil level, it has no effect on term of starting the engine but I would advise to have your oil changed once a year a bit like your car. It's easy and it improves and prolong the life of the engine.

I hope you find what is the problem

Sincerely

Julian

Hi, yes they do, but it depends on the model you have, the new plastic top cover has an easy one, opposite side to the petrol cap, you'll see another cap with the oil sign on it, turn lefty (lefty loosy, righty tighty) then you can check the oil level or change the oil.

On the older models, it is usually on the back left of the engine (user side) there is a nob with 2 bits pocking out, that's where the oil gauge is, it is usually tightly locked so use a screwdriver to open it.

I hope that helps

It's not too difficult, I would recommend to buy the oil change kit from Briggs & stratton at Bunnings. It contains a pump with a canister also purchase some quality oil. The oil remover kit cost around $27 and if you want you can buy a servicing kit (containing oil, air filter, spark plug and fuel saver) for $32, check your air filter colour as they have 3 colours available. Otherwise just the oil is around the $12 mark.

As for the procedure to remove the oil, open the oil cap, put the tube in till you reach the bottom, join the pump to the canister and pump. Soon you will have drain all the oil, make sure you have the last bits from the bottom as it contains all the nasty bits. Put the new oil in, checking the quantity necessary for your engine (use the dip stick and check regularly if you are not sure so you don't put too much oil) and you are done. It takes less than 15min, but if you do the air filter and the spark plug it's about 30min for your first time. If you are unsure of the process watch some video on YouTube to get the visual of what I explained.

Having it done by a service professional is around $75.

DIY lawnmower service isn't too difficult and it is very rewarding, have a go and you will save some money too.

Sorry, I don't understand the question.

Perhaps you meant to write gauge - you could always call up victa and ask them

I'm unsure what the current cost is, but in 2009 mine was $329. Now using it commercially with no dramas.

Lots of smoke could be from putting 2 stroke fuel in the mower instead of normal unleaded?

Wrong what in? Oil in the fuel and fuel in the oil? You'll have to drain the tank and sump if you've done this, fortunately quite easy to fix. This mower runs and starts quite happily on 25:1 2-stroke mix, does run a little smoky but still works fine.