Well Designed Little Table Saw but Poorly made
I had read many reviews on 4 inch below table saw, including the very helpful one from Graeme W, before committed to a 05/07 version of the Proxxon FET. My experience on the saw includes:
As mentioned by Graeme W, there are a few options when comes to models:
* The MicroMark/Microlux 80463 which is a rebadged, 110VAC version of Proxxon FKS from the US.
* The Proxxon current model FET.
* The Brynes from the US.
* There was a Microlux model 85870 with digital rip fence which appears to be a rebadged Austrian model. Both are hard to find now.
* But there is also a Chinese model called Hyuda appeared like the Austrian model. All three models are functionally similar to Proxxon FKS but with a digital rip fence.
I picked Proxxon FET because it's the current model and I particularly like the feature that you can lift the table top and clean the internal. The only criticism is the vacumb design may not be right so the suction can't get rid of all the saw dust.
For the Brynes, I think it's the Roll Royce among the all, very precise but very expensive too. You need to buy a lot of accessories, one by one,... an angle cut would require you to purchase the tilt table which makes me think it's complicated to use. The good news is you can get the 230VAC version. The only thing stops me buying this beautiful saw is the price.
For Microlux 36587/Proxxon FKS, I like the fact that it has speed adjustment which is useful if you cut metals, hard woods, PCBs or ceramics, not so much for timbers, you always run the top speed especially for soft wood. The FKS is now superseded by FET and the Microlux has only 110VAC version. I saw comments that the FKS is made in Japan and the FET is made in Taiwan. I bought a faulty FKS to compare with my new FET, the difference is not too obvious, yes, the FKS is slightly more refined, just. FET is definitely a better design.
The Hyuda is half the price of a FET and is pretty good value for the price. It also has a digital fence and speed adjustment. However, I prefer something a bit more refined.
It's possible to modify FET to include a speed controller, but it is not straight forward.
I have also discovered there are many different types of blades can be used for the FET; you do not have to use the Proxxon blades. For example, you can get inexpensive, very thin Chinese made solid carbide blades which are very durable and making precise cuts.
The feature I like most for the FET is the fine adjustment of the rip fence, it saves you the need to buy a Microlux Accurizer II rip fence. After I used the saw afew times, I have discovered the adjustment is too rough of a make. There are too much play due to the gaps left in manufacturing. The fix is to shim the gaps with PTFE washers. This will make the adjustment smoother and at the same time eliminating the noise creating by the scratching spring.
I dislike most is my version of the FET coming with a cost-cutting version of the rip fence longitudinal stop. It's made of a extrusion aluminium angle rather than the original cast Aluminium bar. The angle can only be used on the right side of the saw blade but not the left side of the saw blade while the cast bar can be both. I wrote to Proxxon and was referred to a local dealer, a cast bar rip fence is still available for the cost of approx. $70. I also discovered the stop can be easily moved out of calibration due to the way of the screw holding the angle. I had to use a larger washer, a longer screw and super glue to hold it down firmly after calibrating it with a precision square.
Overall I now believe the saw may well be good designed but not very well made. You need a lot of effort to make it work reasonably well.
Purchased in February 2018.
Proxxon FET 4" Tilt Arbour Table Saw
I spent about 6 weeks researching which table saw to get, this is for model building, so it needed to be accurate and easy to adjust. The options were the Proxxon the Microlux from Micro Mark USA, and the Brynes Saw also from the US. So I read countless reviews, watched hours of you tube videos and finally settled on the Proxxon purely because it was available locally so the backup is there if needed and didn't require a power step down transformer, (neither does the Brynes). I emailed Proxxon and asked a couple of questions, got the reply within hours, and this was on a Saturday evening to boot, i was kinda impressed with that.
So my saw is now in place and bedded in, issues that came up during unpacking and putting it together are:
1. The single ended rip fence is not my favorite, to get an accurate cut is fiddly to say the least.
2. The Tee slots for the miter fence are as tight as a "ducks butt under water", I resorted to some 2000 grit paper and silicon spray over several (4 !!) hours of VERY careful work to get the fence to stop binding in the slots but that is now sorted and despite sanding things there is only a Gnats whisker of play in the slots. Having used a full sized table saw in the past with the usual U slots I feel the Tees are something Proxxon needs to do away with.
3. The cast top has dish in it, but it is only half a millimeter so won't cause any issues what so ever.
4. The supplied push stick is just way to wide for the saw, so will make a new one from some scarp 5 mm timber.
Some reviews I saw said the Rip Fence is not square to the blade, but if they had read the instruction manual or asked Proxxon this is adjustable and so simple, once explained by Proxxon how to do this, I'm at a loss why anyone would have an issue with it.
I have swapped out the 24 tooth Tungsten Blade for their 80 tooth Super Cross Cut Blade for working with soft woods like Basswood. Also have put in the Zero clearance plate to stop small "bits" falling into the saw case. Note: this means you can't tilt the blade for miter cuts, but I don't envisage me needing it, anyway it's easy to remove the plate if needed.
So would I recommend this to others? yep sure would, if the Tee slots are upgraded to U channels then this rates a 5 star review.
Another nice to have from Proxxon would be a clone of Micro-Marks Accurizer II to fit the FET.
Additional notes - I have worked out the Rip Fence, still not perfect, but for now I can live with it