Best Table Saws
Table saws are an essential tool in any woodworker’s workshop as they provide a clean and precise cut. They’re versatile and can be used for a range of different DIY jobs. Before buying a table saw, what are the factors that you should consider? Keep reading…
DeWalt 254mm DWE7491-XE
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Being a hobbyist DIYer who likes to make things about the house, I put off getting a table saw for a long timel they're just so ... Read more
expensive. Now I feel like an idiot for doing so. The DWE7491 has become the most used tool in the shop. This thing isn't cheap. Weighing in at nearly $1300 it was a cause for anxiety when I pulled the trigger. But I am so glad I did. Here are the things I love: - The fence is dreamy, with a wonderful rack and pinion adjustment. Keeps it true. - Rip capacity is well over 800mm - Powerful motor cuts everything with ease - Onboard storage of fence and other tooling (but not blade changing spanners) - Includes blade changing spanners that work Here are the things I'm not so fond of: - It is LOUD! The motor is not built in to cabinetry so it is free to yell at you. Wear ear protection. - The motor sparks when stopping - The tracks are non-standard size - The arbor is 16mm, making it difficult to find suitable blades (use a reducer) - The fence is a little short for longer cuts. - Dust collection isn't perfect, but show me a saw that is This tool opens up so many opportunities for new projects. It has been used to build shelves, shop tools (e.g. drill press table), cabinets, cutlery drawer inserts, ripped down panels and ply, and much more. I haven't touched my circular saws or mitre saw since I bought it several months ago. I also received the DWE74912-XJ scissor stand as a bonus and the saw fitted on to it with no problems. The stand is stable and I've had no issues with balance or tipping. I also use roller stands from Bunnings for longer workpieces to ensure they remain level at the ends of the cuts. It isn't a match for a cabinet saw, but it is more affordable, transportable and smaller, which is great for the hobbyist on a money and space budget.Evolution Rage5-S 255mm Multi-Material TCT Evolution Table Saw
DeWalt 745
I got mine for about 580 on cle... Read more
arance and it was pretty square right out of the box. I made a cross cut sled and found that using two runners caused the sled to bind. The runners on their own slid smoothly, so I can only assume that the mitre slots are not 100% parallel which is a shame but not a huge deal. I just use one runner now. The blade is close enough to parallel with the slots that the cuts are good enough for my work. It makes a ton of dust so use it outside or with dust collection. Cuts well, plenty of power, the rack and pinion fence is easy to dial in accurate cuts. It does a good job for the price. I do wish it was more precise but this tool is compact and portable which for me is more important. The power switch makes perfect sense to me. Easy to turn off, hard to start. If you read the manual you'd know how it works.Bosch GTS10XC
Ryobi RTS1825RG
The blade was al... Read moreready fitted at purchase, however out of alignment by about 1.5mm. The manual says to return to them for adjustment if inexperienced with that process - OK if you don't want your new saw for weeks and are happy to pay the freight. Their difficult to access, primitive anchoring system can be found way back under the table-top, where with patience testing insistence one can undo four bolts and manipulate the carriage - naturally there are no indexing marks to make this job easy. Although it holds well once set, the fence is otherwise rubbish for accuracy because although it has an indexing scale at the front, there is no corresponding aligning scale at the back end, thus requires measuring of front and back of blade/fence for each adjustment of cutting width. If there's a better way, Ryobi certainly don't tell you in their user manual. Speaking of the manual, most of the important actions are in pictorial form rather than text. That can be confusing but generally OK if they are accurate - in my manual the "blade change" diagram clearly shows the blade facing one way and the retaining bits and axle reversed to actuality, so which way do I actually turn the nut when changing a blade ? Sadly, I suspect I'll find more stuff as time goes by.
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Pros
- strong and stable, can easily put a mitre saw on it as well
- has 2 clamps embedded that can be used w... Read more
Ozito TSB-0808
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Baumr-AG BTS90
Hitachi C10RC
Dewalt 8-1/4" Compact Table Saw DWE7485
Proxxon FET Table Saw
As mentioned by Graeme W, there are a... Read more few options when comes to models: * The MicroMark/Microlux 80463 which is a rebadged, 110VAC version of Proxxon FKS from the US. * The Proxxon current model FET. * The Brynes from the US. * There was a Microlux model 85870 with digital rip fence which appears to be a rebadged Austrian model. Both are hard to find now. * But there is also a Chinese model called Hyuda appeared like the Austrian model. All three models are functionally similar to Proxxon FKS but with a digital rip fence. I picked Proxxon FET because it's the current model and I particularly like the feature that you can lift the table top and clean the internal. The only criticism is the vacumb design may not be right so the suction can't get rid of all the saw dust. For the Brynes, I think it's the Roll Royce among the all, very precise but very expensive too. You need to buy a lot of accessories, one by one,... an angle cut would require you to purchase the tilt table which makes me think it's complicated to use. The good news is you can get the 230VAC version. The only thing stops me buying this beautiful saw is the price. For Microlux 36587/Proxxon FKS, I like the fact that it has speed adjustment which is useful if you cut metals, hard woods, PCBs or ceramics, not so much for timbers, you always run the top speed especially for soft wood. The FKS is now superseded by FET and the Microlux has only 110VAC version. I saw comments that the FKS is made in Japan and the FET is made in Taiwan. I bought a faulty FKS to compare with my new FET, the difference is not too obvious, yes, the FKS is slightly more refined, just. FET is definitely a better design. The Hyuda is half the price of a FET and is pretty good value for the price. It also has a digital fence and speed adjustment. However, I prefer something a bit more refined. It's possible to modify FET to include a speed controller, but it is not straight forward. I have also discovered there are many different types of blades can be used for the FET; you do not have to use the Proxxon blades. For example, you can get inexpensive, very thin Chinese made solid carbide blades which are very durable and making precise cuts. The feature I like most for the FET is the fine adjustment of the rip fence, it saves you the need to buy a Microlux Accurizer II rip fence. After I used the saw afew times, I have discovered the adjustment is too rough of a make. There are too much play due to the gaps left in manufacturing. The fix is to shim the gaps with PTFE washers. This will make the adjustment smoother and at the same time eliminating the noise creating by the scratching spring. I dislike most is my version of the FET coming with a cost-cutting version of the rip fence longitudinal stop. It's made of a extrusion aluminium angle rather than the original cast Aluminium bar. The angle can only be used on the right side of the saw blade but not the left side of the saw blade while the cast bar can be both. I wrote to Proxxon and was referred to a local dealer, a cast bar rip fence is still available for the cost of approx. $70. I also discovered the stop can be easily moved out of calibration due to the way of the screw holding the angle. I had to use a larger washer, a longer screw and super glue to hold it down firmly after calibrating it with a precision square. Overall I now believe the saw may be a good design but let down by the quality control. If you are handy and able to fix issues here and there, and don't want to pay double the money for a premium model like Brynes, it's still a reasonable compromise.
Ozito TBS-2000
Festool PRECISIO CS 50 Table Saw
Makita MLT100N
Evolution R255MTS
Gregory Machinery let me swap out the standard mitre gauge for a cast-iron extension wing as I already have an In... Read morecra 1000 HD. Here are my initial impressions. I thought I’d write this so as to assist others with their cabinet saw purchasing decisions. Before I get started, here’s my rationale for this purchase: • I don’t like the SawStop fences on their ‘professional’ cabinet saws • I don’t like that certain features are an extra with SawStop • I don’t like that SawStop replacement parts are so expensive • I don’t like that the blade stopping technology is about $1500 • There was no free freight with either Sawstop or Laguna models • The Festool offerings weren’t even in the running • I couldn’t find any comprehensive reviews of either the Timbecon or Carbatec homebrands • Reviews for the Harvey Alpha saws are mostly positive The dicision came down to the Harvey Alpha or the Laguna Fusion 3,and, given that there wasn’t much difference in purchase price, the free freight for the Harvey tipped the balance. The Harvey arrived earlier this month and I got to putting it together. The main body arrived bolted to a palette along with three other boxes. It is VERY heavy so, if you're thinking of buying one, make sure you have a tail lift and a palette truck or half a dozen friends to help you. The travelling bolts that attach the saw to the pallet for transport can be used as micro levlling feet if they’re screw back through the base of the cabinet. The instruction manual is on the top of the saw when first unboxed. It is pretty good as far as documentation goes, but, if you can't work out how to put this thing together without step-by-step handholding, then you may want to question buying a cabinet saw in the first place! It’s that simple. A fabricated box, a couple of beefy steel rails, and plenty of shining cast iron with a few flourishes. The first thing that really impressed me was the fit and finish. Removing the oil paper from the table reveals an impressively flat and brilliant cast iron table with machined mitre slots. The cabinet is reasonably well finished, and the polished handles for blade elevation and tilt are a nice touch. Putting the wings on is relatively straightforward. The socket head cap screws are already fitted to the base and need to be removed to fit the wings. Clamping a couple of bits of wood under the top of the table makes fitting the wings easy, especially if you don't have a helper on hand. You can clamp another bit of wood across the top of the table once the wings are fitted to make alignment and levelling easier while the wing bolts are tightened. I found a couple of bits of thin cardboard between the base table and the left hand wing were needed to get these levelled, but the extension wing fitted without the need for shimming. Fitting the rails is a similar process, but, rather than clamping wood to the underside of the table, place wood on the table top and then clamp the rails to it underneath while you tighten the bolts. I used a digital angle gauge to check that both rails are at the same angle as the table top and put a mitre bar in the mitre slots to check that it slid without hitting either rail. Use the hex head bolts on the front rail and the socket head cap screws on the rear rail. If you don't have the cast iron extension wing, the composite steel and phenolic extension is added to the right of the base table. Unfortunately, and this is the first and probably most serious gripe I have with this saw, if you do buy the cast iron extension wing, the composite wing that comes with the saw is completely redundant because its holes don't align with those in the rails and therefore cannot be fitted. I expected that the composite wing could be included as a further extension, but was disappointed that it cannot be used in conjunction with the cast iron extension wing. Once the wings and the rails are on, it's time to fit a blade and check for alignment. Before you do, however, there is a couple of things to do: First, remove the bracket that holds the motor in place during transport. Take note of where this bracket meets the motor supports as this is the mechanism for controlling the tension of the drive belt. Second, the arbor flange has two set screws which need to be removed unless you're going to be using the supplied blade or blades from Europe. The arbor locking mechanism works well, if a little flimsy looking, and left-handers will need to change the blade from the rear of the saw. Out of the box, the blade on my unit was 0.06mm out of alignment with the left-hand mitre slot and 0.35° off 90° and 45° . adjusting both blade parallelism and tilt is pretty straightforward. The bits and pieces inside the cabinet are unsophisticated, but this is one of the appealing features of this saw – it’s solid. Simple. Functional. The 90° tilt is adjusted from the left-hand side of the cabinet and 45° from the right. Loosen the set screws in the locking collar at the respective end of the tilt worm screw, set the desired angle of the blade using a digital angle finder (remembering to set the angle relative to the table and not the rest of the universe), and then spin the collar until it is tight with the tilting mechanism. Tighten the set screws in the collar and it is done. The tilt wheel is very finely graded so it takes quite a number of turns from 90° to 45°, and it is oddly mounted on the right hand side of the cabinet, but, fortunately, it’s not something that gets used everyday so it probably won’t be that irritating. The height wheel is well graded and smooth so raising and lowering the blade is straightforward. I like the tension knobs on both the tilt and height wheels to prevent movement to any desired settings. One of the benefits of a cabinet saw as distinct from a jobsite or contractor saw is that the table moves independently of the motor and the blade. To adjust the parallelism of the blade to the mitre slots, loosen all the bolts holding the table to the cabinet and move the table clockwise or otherwise until the digital alignment gauge reads the same for a single spot on the blade at front and back. Tighten the bolts holding the table and it is done. With the cast iron extension wing on the right-hand side, the saw is not as stable as it’s apparent heft might lead you to believe. A bit of downward pressure on the end of a rail has the saw tipping deceptively easily so I will be making a low platform to which I’ll bolt the cabinet. Once the blade and the mitre slots are aligned, it's time to fit the fence. The fence is solid. Once it is fine-tuned, it glides smoothly, and a light smear of silicon grease on the runners in the base make it even smoother. But here's the second albeit less serious gripe I have with this saw - the fence can run off the rails if you're a bit enthusiastic with moving it to the right. Maybe Harvey could include rubberised stops on each rail in a future update? I'll build something in the meantime. The set screws and knurled tightening rings on the fence are self explanatory. A digital angle gauge and alignment tool can be used to get the fence and it's runners square with the mitre slots and its various elements levelled. It’d be handy, though, if the locking rings for the set screws on the fence came with a tool or had a lever attachment to make tightening them a little easier, but this is not a problem as such. The heavy aluminium alloy facia that attaches to the fence can be set three ways including as a makeshift L-shaped jig, but it will be tricky to add fixtures or custom jig as there aren't any convenient anchor points on it nor the fence rail itself. There is an exposed t-track on the fascia when it is in ‘low’ mode, but it is ½” (12.7mm) t-track so finding t-bolts or t-nuts might mean hours online. There is a slight jiggle in the fence when the locking lever is activated, but, if you hold the fence in place when locking it, the position of the fence remains accurate. The fence locking mechanism moves in the direction of the fence rail so there’s no side-to-side displacement. So, now the blade is as parallel with the mitre slots as I can measure it and same with the blade angle. Time for a test cut. In the meantime, though, I am genuinely baffled as to why it is impossible for saw manufacturers to make a blade guard that isn't simultaneously unwieldly to use and clumsy to fit. The blade guard that comes with the Harvey Alpha is no exception. Its one redeeming feature is that it is completely clear allowing a good view of the blade. There is a spring-loaded retractable locking pin for splitters and riving knives mounted to the trunnion (the assembly that holds the motor and the blade and adjustment mechanisms. And here is my third gripe with this saw – the locking mechanism for the splitter or riving knife. First, it's too small for large fingers and its travel is minimal. Second, it can be rotated to lock the mechanism open, but the head of it can get caught requiring a screwdriver or similar to release it again. Third, the trunnion needs to be brought all the way to the top, otherwise it can't be reached by a finger. On a cabinet saw at this price point, I'd expect better. And, while we’re here, the knob that holds the left-hand inspection panel on the cabinet closed is cheap junk and has no place in this price range. Finding the slot for the blade guard splitter or a riving knife by feel is similarly frustrating because the jaws that grip it do not provide sufficient guidance, so it takes a bit of practice to get it right, and the throat plate can’t be installed after the blade guard like other table saws. However, having said this, I am yet to use a table or cabinet saw of any price point that provides a great experience in using and fitting blade guards or riving knives. Then again, the Laguna Fusion series might be better with its simple release mechanism, but I have not used it, so can’t comment on whether it’d be easier to use. The standard and DADO throat plates that come with the saw are solid and can be located easily and securely with four grub screws and a locking screw at the front. If you’re not cutting on an angle frequently, a strip of zero clearance tape or a homemade throat plate will provide zero clearance. Once I'd dialled in the Incra mitre guide, the test cuts turned out perfectly smooth and square using a Freud combination blade, so I have absolutely no gripes about it's accuracy or performance. The saw is powerful, quiet, and the on/off switch is in a perfect position for me. There’s no blade brake, but the motor winds down pretty quickly when the stop switch is pressed. For what it is worth, I have attached the overhead dust collection kit that comes standard, but don’t hold out a great deal of hope that it will do much, given the meandering route dust and chips are required to travel down to the 4” (102mm) outlet. And I am not sure why the dust port is on the right-hand side of the machine? Surely it would make more sense for it to be at the back? Also, the clamps for the dust collection pipe at the back of the saw that attach to the rear rail are obviously an afterthought or are OEM and intended for more than one model. They work, but I can come up with half a dozen better ways of doing it without thinking too hard. It might seem that I am being overly critical, but my criticisms are pretty minor. I do like the Harvey’s simplicity, the ease of its assembly and configuration, its fit and finish, its accuracy and power, and its robustness. I’ll update this review once I have used it more …
Dewalt D28710
Ozito Router Table RTB-003
Hafco Woodmaster ST-254
1. Mitre gauge missing
2. Tray has hole but no plug; and there were other parts missing
3. Pump has a filt... Read more
er but will not operate/operate properly with the filter in 4. there was a serious choking kink in the plastic hose which would have required major dismantling to fix 5. Hard to push along the track I was extremely disappointed with the saw and also at my time wasted in transporting it, assembling it and trying to get it to work. I returned it to Bunnings. There was also no advice available about the saw from anyone at Bunnings.Universal vs. induction saws
Universal motor | Induction motor | |
---|---|---|
Portability | ✔ | |
Durability | ✔ | |
Affordability | ✔ | |
Speed | ✔ | |
Energy rating | ✔ | |
Reduced noise | ✔ | |
Dual power source | ✔ |
There are two primary types of motors that are used to power your saws. They differ in performance and price tags.
Induction motors are heavier than universal motors, making them less portable but more ideal for stationary tools to reduce rattling and improve stability. They can only run on a mains power and need to be plugged in. Because they are more durable and made with copper or stainless steel, they are more expensive and can be found in the top of the range saws.
Saws with induction motors have a slower maximum speed and less torque at the start-up - meaning they may not be suitable for tasks that involve starting and stopping frequently. However, they have a longer life compared to universal motors, a higher energy efficiency rating and are much quieter than universal motors.
On the opposite end, universal motors are lightweight and suitable for use as portable saws - being able to run on both mains and battery power. They are affordable and have no limit on speeds and have great torque whilst starting up.
The downsides are that they may need replacing more often than induction motors, they tend to make much more noise and are less energy efficient.
You should invest in a motor type depending on how often you’ll be using your table saw and the type of projects you’ll be working on.
Types of table saws
There are many types of table saws on the market and the one you choose should be based on your budget, the space you have available, what you will be using it for and how adept you are at woodworking. With that in mind, here are the types of table saws available.
Portable
For those who value easy portability and storage - primarily those working in their garages or on various job sites, portable saws are the way to go. They are lightweight, can be stored away easily and are designed to be placed on tables or portable workbenches.
They come in three handy models: benchtop, compact, and jobsite table saws.
Benchtop table saws
These saws should be placed on a table or workbench as they don’t come with a support stand. They’re lightweight and a good choice for homeowner and casual DIYers.
Benchtop table saws are powered by a universal motor and are extremely portable. They can be moved and set to a different height to produce cuts with different depths.
These types of table saws are the most affordable, providing excellent value for money. They can, however, be noisier and less durable than bigger and more expensive models.
Compact table saws
Compact saws are larger than benchtop models but smaller than contractor saws. They sit on a stationary stand and are generally driven by small toothed belts with a universal motor. They are similar to, but smaller and made of lighter materials than a contractor saw.
Jobsite table saws
Jobsite table saws come mounted on a stand. They’re larger than benchtop models but still easily portable and used by trade professionals who commute to job sites. They’re also more robust in order to be able to withstand use on construction sites.
Stationary table saws
Stationary saws are generally used by serious woodworking enthusiasts and cabinet makers. They are larger, more robust and can provide more precise cuts than portable table saws. Models include contractor, hybrid, and cabinet table saws.
Contractor table saws
Also referred to as open-stand saws, they are larger and heavier than portable table saws and come with an attached stand (which is usually on wheels). They use an induction type motor for a steadier cut.
Many DIY hobbyists and homeowners can benefit from buying this type of saw if they wish to get a stationary one because standard electrical circuits provide adequate power to run them and they are fairly affordable when compared to other large saws.
A potential downside is that the motor hangs off the rear of the saw meaning dust collection may be difficult.
Cabinet table saws
Cabinet table saws are typically the most expensive and powerful. They are made of cast iron and steel to minimise vibration and increase accuracy. They’re built with an enclosed base for superior dust collection and feature an induction motor in the 3 to 5 horsepower range.
They’re most suitable for professional use and are a great investment for woodworking enthusiasts. Designed to be durable and robust, these models will last for many years.
However, because they are large, they will require a large amount of dedicated space and can not be stored away.
Hybrid table saws
Hybrid saws provide many features that are present in a high-end cabinet and contractor saws at a reduced cost.
They are, in essence, contractor saws mounted to a tabletop with a cabinet stand. Most come with an enclosed cabinet design, but some offer an open leg style of design to improve dust collection.
They are not as robust as cabinet saws but are still an upgrade from a contractor saw. They offer good value for money.
What to look for in a good table saw
Now that you’ve chosen which type of saw you want, you’ll want to choose your specific saw. Here are the things you should look out for:
Blade: One of the most important features of the table saw is the quality of the blade. Look out for the number of teeth, kerf and arbor size, diameter, application, speed and material of the blade.
For reference, the standard blade diameter is 10” which gives a 3-½” cut capacity at 90 degrees. Blades can be made out of carbide, carbon or diamond-tipped teeth.
Power: Many blades these days can cut through materials other than wood. Knowing which materials you want to work with in the future will guide your decision-making process in this category.
The amps (current) refer to the power output of the table saw. The higher the amps, the more power the saw has to cut dense material. Purchase a saw that is powerful enough for your required tasks.
Flat top: The most accurate cuts can only be made on flat tables. Check your saw’s flatness deviation (0.005” is typically acceptable for a cabinet saw).
Rip fence type: The fence, also known as a rip fence is a cutting guide that goes from the front of the table to the back. This should be perfectly parallel to the cutting plane of the blade and should lock down solidly.
It’s important to have a reliable fence that doesn’t move out of position to ensure a clean cut.
The rip capacity is also important to consider as it determines the maximum width of any material that you’d like to cut.
Miter gauge: A miter gauge is a device used for holding workpieces at a set angle while being cut on table saws - look for an accurate miter gauge with stops at 45 and 90 degrees.
Standard mitre slot: While Australian table saws will all use the standard 19 x 9.5mm mitre slot, suiting all standard accessories, European table saws will use different sized slots so be careful if purchasing a table saw from abroad.
Arbor locks: An arbor lock provides a simple and safer locking mechanism that prevents the blade from spinning while you lock it in place. Usually, the arbor hole is 5/8″ in diameter. Having ill-fitting arbor locks can making changing blades a tiresome process.
Storage: Some table saws can offer a storage compartment to place your tools and accessories such as safety glasses, rip fence and blades. This can be highly useful and provide a compact and tidy appearance.
Dust collection: If you’ll be using the saw inside and you want to keep things tidy, make sure the saw has a dust port available to connect a dust collector to it.
Bevel capability: When making angled cuts, most table saws allow you to tilt the blade to the left for angled cuts, some also tilt to the right - try to choose a saw that matches your personal preference and provides accurate, clean angled cuts.
Ease of use: Consider how easy the product is to understand and use as this could affect the quality of your work and your safety. Some portable table saws don’t come assembled so take into consideration the effort of setting up a table saw or buying one pre-installed. Take into account how easy it is to change the blade and make certain types of cuts such as grooved or angled cuts.
Safety: Table saws are very safe when used responsibly with all the guards in place, however, for extra safety, some saws come with an automatic brake that goes into effect when the blade touches the skin. It could also be worth investing in a safety on/off switch that you can turn off with your knees as your hands might be occupied while holding onto some wood.
You can read reviews on the top table saws on our website today!
Hi David, Thank you for taking the time to write us a review, we really appreciate your feedback. Your business means a lot to us, so if you ever have additional feedback, please don’t hesitate to rea... Read more
ch out via socialmedia@millstrading.com.au with a screenshot of your review. Regards, Jay