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Surprisingly good....but not so the included stand.
Spotted this saw/stand combination on a recent Bunnings visit. Whilst I had been looking for a sliding mitre saw, was cautious about tools that “looked” good bit did not have the quality required for longevity or to accurately produce a quality article. After having taught woodwork for some forty years, I had used a wide range of quality branded professional trade tools and wasn’t sure how a Ryobi tool (targeted at the home handyman) may measure up. However, after giving it a good look over and feel, thought it was worth a try as the price was ...good ($349), the castings and general structure felt solid and the warranty was for four years replacement. Worth a go I thought. APPEARANCE Coloured in the typical Ryobi bright yellow/green, the saw looks the part (an assembled one in store was what caught my eye initially). Saw and stand came in two separate boxes, were well packaged and easy to assemble. Parts felt much the equal of the “trade brands” with the exception of some minor adjustment knobs which seemed to be a slightly cheaper plastic. Total unit weighs around 20kg (saw and stand). Saw is attached to stand with quick release grips which do a good job of securing it while still allowing it to be quickly removed for bench work or just to allow easy storage with the folding stand. Stand will extend out to be around 2m end to end. FUNCTIONALITY Operation of the saw slides was good with no perceptible slop or twisting in the mechanism. Surprisingly, the saw itself had a good feel, also with no slop in the arbor and the power trigger feet sturdy in its operation. Grip was comfortable and safety release fell well to hand (not quite so if you are left handed however). In fact, I really couldn’t fault the saw at all in comparison to the other “trade brands” I have used. It has plenty of power and I was surprised to find the included blade appeared to be of reasonable quality as well (not to say I wouldn’t change it in the future nor how well it might hold up under extended use). Also surprising was the saw was spot on in alignment straight out of the box. Perfect 90 degrees while angles were also perfectly aligned with the scale. Could not fault the flatness and accuracy of the mitred and bevelled cuts (up to 45 degrees in both directions for each). Both aligned perfectly with the marked scale. There is a laser guide to assist in positioning the timber correctly in relation to the blade and this can be separately switched on or off as needed. Thankfully, this is powered by the mains power rather than the battery powered laser units I have come across. Saw guard is well positioned and smoothly moves out of the way when you use the saw while still maintaining a safe level of coverage for the operator. Saw is a 2000w with a 254mm 48T blade with 30mm arbor. Dust extraction is supplied as a bag but you could add a vacuum hose. Average at performing dust extraction but I have yet to come across a mitre saw that does do it well. Not an issue for me as I use it outdoors only.
Purchased in August 2019 at Bunnings Warehouse for $349.00.
Questions & Answers
How do I adjust my RMS254DB to obtain a true vertical cut? On page 25, pic 4 at the point of the arrow there is an Allen key screw and a lock nut. Are they the same as on page 39, pic 9 and what is they're purpose
Page 25, Pic 4 has the arrow pointing to one of the two "stops" that you can use to fine-tune how far to the left and to the right you can tilt your saw blade off the vertical. They should be good to go straight out of the box and would probably only need adjustment due to wear over the life of the saw.
Page 39, pic 9 is actually the top view of the saw showing the position of securing bolts for the fence to the table. Absolutely nothing to do with Page 25. These allow the fence to be removed or simply adjusted to allow the saw head to tilt.
My saw came absolutely spot on vertical out of the box. However, if yours didn't, steps to correct this are on pages 32-33. You will need to access recessed hex head bolts around the back of the saw to adjust this (adjacent to the light grey tri-head "handle" allowing the saw to skip indents when adjusting off the vertical).
Don't blame you for being confused with the instructions...Ryobi could have done a lot better in their explanation with the additional of words to the diagrams.
I cannot understand in the instructions where to find the adjustment of the 90 degrees to the table.
I am looking at page 32 item 4 of the instructions.
P32 item 4 (and beyond) only shows how to adjust the angle of the saw blade to the fence. To adjust the angle of the saw blade to the table. Look at P34-35 (particularly item6) which shows how. Essentially, go around the back of the saw and unlock (counter clockwise turn) the large black three pointed locking knob. Then go to the small grey knob beneath it and pull it out (away from the saw). It's spring loaded to allow you to lock into the preset common angles (30, 45 etc) or if you need a specific angle (eg 18?) just hold that knob out, turn to the required degrees and lock it in place with the black three pointed knob.
Thanks Peter, will try it tomorrow. The angle is showing at 0 degrees. I know how to adjust that angle to other positions, but I just want to adjust the blade a fraction to get it spot on to 90 degrees
There is more adjustment in this machine than may initially be realised, and the manual is, well, patchy.
The detents (where pin drops in) on the bevel can be adjusted independently of the position the saw is in or is locked up in. To adjust the quadrant INSIDE the machine, removal of the bevel adjuster may be necessary to access the two VERY tight hex head screws which hold the detent quadrant which is drilled to allow the pin to drop in for commonly used bevel angles. Once you see how this quadrant can move independently of the bevel adjustment, it will be clear how to adjust it. Adjustment can then be made when the saw is fully assembled of course, as access to the two hex head screws inside the bevel pivot is possible using a long series hex key (allen key). Finally adjustment of the pointer on the bevel scale can be achieved by loosening the screw and adjusting the point to line up to 90 degrees.
Great review, thanks!
Just bought the same model a few days ago and built a workbench with it. The biggest problem I found is that the detent stops are too weak, it's very easy to slide over the common marks, even with carefully adjustment I still feel there's some free movement when the angle fits into a detent mark, in my opinion it's a faulty design. So everytime I change the angle, I need to cut a piece of wood to calibrate the blade angle against to the detent. It's quite annoying to be honest. However, the bevel adjustment is quite accurate. If I had opportunity I'd choose one with solid tight detent.
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