Best Cut-Off & Mitre Saws
After the initial frustration at the time about the delivery process and lack of tracking clarity, not the product itself. Festool Australia followed… Read more
up and made a genuine effort to resolve things, including sending some complimentary consumables as a goodwill gesture, which I appreciated.
Now that I have received the drop saw and had the chance to use it, I can honestly say the product lives up to Festool’s reputation. The build quality is outstanding, the cut accuracy is exceptional, and the smooth operation and dust extraction are exactly what I’ve come to expect from Festool. It’s clear this is a premium tool designed for precision and reliability.
Like my other Festool tools, this one has impressed me and reinforces why I continue to invest in the brand. While the delivery experience was disappointing, Festool’s response and the quality of the product itself have restored my confidence. A great tool — just hoping the logistics side improves for future customers.
Makita LS1040
I loved this saw until 3hrs of use time cutting pine skirting, it died. WHAT THE HELL MAKITA? – Brought from Sydney Tools late Aug 2022, didn't get to use it until October 2022 due to landscaping being brought forward. Used only to cut skirting… Read more
and Archs, total run time of around 3hrs. Saw stopped working but still power to light and laser. Took it into Sydney Tools and they sent it immediately to local authorised repairer. Repairer advised that brushes were totally worn out and NOT covered by warranty. At first I think everyone just assumed I was lying and had used and abused the saw, but I asked them to have a look at it and they agreed it was as new and definitely NOT a saw that had been used much at all.
Makita have denied everything and any warranty claim despite the repairer suggesting they should, and the rep won't even call me to discuss. It's not necessarily about the money, but the principle. The saw brushes are obviously faulty.
My Dad had said decades ago that Makita had lost their mojo so I had avoided them for all this time - and I have bought a lot of tools as I regularly move and renovate my homes. So, I finally went out on a limb and back to Makita and this is the result. I am out of pocket for the repairs and totally disgusted in their after sales service. I took the worn brushes back to ST and they suggested that the brushes can sometimes have material contamination which weakens them and they just shatter. Sydney Tools felt my pain, know me well enough and have offered a store credit for the repair costs as I buy a lot from them.
I really look after my tools and I don't flog them. I am sooooo disappointed and based solely on their lack of response, you can be sure that the long list of tools I have on Santas list won't be Makita - its a running joke with the trades on site already. Sadly for Makita I have a wicked sense of humour and they can BANK on me telling my friends and acquaintances (and maybe I'll even go and make new friends just to tell them) how crap this experience has been. Things go wrong with products - noone denies that but its reasonable to expect respectful after sales service when there is a legitimate issue. The rep for Port Macquarie should have just called...
Great bit of kit – Great tool but the dust collection in the bag that’s supplied is poor. That’s why only 4 stars.
The Material Clamp is usless – There is nothing to secure the material clamp to the saw. No locking screw, nothing. Just a lsmooth shaft and a loose hole. Tighten it up and it just… Read more
moves up and falls out. There is no way that it could work. It's a joke. I had to drill a hole in the back and put a bolt in to get it to function. Also the blade is very poor quality and I had to replace it with the blade from my old saw. The dust bag doesn't collect dust at all. Apart from that it works OK for the price.
Excellent lightweight drop saw – Used this drop saw for a sauna build so it needed to cut framing, lining boards and lots of mitres. It never missed a beat and was easy to finely adjust to get 45 degree angles perfect. Would definitely recommend. Show details
Wish I bought this sooner – This has been a great addition to my Ryobi ONE+ reno kit. It's lightweight and super easy to carry around and I can use wherever needed without… Read more
worrying power cords trailing behind. I've used for fascias, new roof struts, trim and cladding. Would definitely recommend for anyone invested in the Ryobi ONE+ ecosystem.
Fantastic cut capacity – Bought this saw in Sept 2020 after spending weeks comparing specs and researching. To start with at 70 x 312 mm 0° it has as far as I'm aware the… Read more
best cut capacity for a 216mm saw including mitres and bevels, the Hikoki C8FSE(H1Z) is a close second and is the same price but is lacking a few things in comparison and every other 216mm saw I looked at didn't have enough capacity. This was a vital factor to me as I don't have a heap of room for tools so need the most compact unit I can get yet still have the capacity for everything I need to do with renovations and building a shed.
Compared to a bigger saw I was looking at like the Makita LS1018L which seems to have issues since they stopped making them in japan the Bosch is only 21mm less in cut height at 0° and only 5-10 mm less when you get into the mitres and bevels yet does slightly better width by up to 5mm.
Unfortunately the gcm 8 sde is made in china now but the quality control must be kept to very high standards, out of the box everything is completely flawless, bar some light saw dust from I'm assuming being tested though it had a new blade fitted. I went over every mm looking for some sort of issue as the courier used by total tools were a complete failure in delivering 19km from the store and every box in my order was severely crushed in some aspect not to mention causing property damage that they ignored me about (Melbourne stage 4 lockdown joys) this being the worst so I wasn't taking any chances, big props to Bosch for the box strength and structure as the saw would have been wrecked with anything less.
Everything is built rock solid and smooth to use, every lever knob etc is well though out, trigger safety designed for right or left hand, slide out supports are smooth and strong, metal degree indicators, even the simple aspect of having a tucked away left hand thread screw in position under the right hand support for the sde knob / normal blade bolt rather than being a loose accessory to lose is a plus.
Calibration out of the box for the blade using my bevel box showed 0.1mm and 0.2mm off in different positions which I think is pretty good from the factory and considering it could have been put out by the rough handling and was extremely easy to adjust.
The only negatives I have been able to come up with to date if I'm nitpicking are: It would have been nice if the flip up end stops were included on the slide out supports rather than as an accessory not that it's a big deal. The vacuum port isn't a standard size and only suites Bosch vacuums, as far as I could find out bosch don't make an adapter but I was able to find a 3d print file online and had an adapter printed for under $40.
Price at the time of buying was $759 which is quite expensive compared to the cheaper saws however as I was also buying a plunge saw and bosch had a deal on I received a $375 voucher which to me was just a $187.50 discount on each of them as I was also buying other things anyway that I used the voucher on so it made it more bearable.
Best power tool purchase in ages – I made the mistake of buying an entry level Hikoki (Hitachi) mitre saw online to replace my old commercial grade Hitachi but took one look at it out… Read more
of the box and thought: nup, not going to do the job.
Flicked it and bought this, admittedly for a much higher price. There are several Makita slide compound mitre saws available. This and its big brother 305mm (12”) version have a unique design where the saw comes forward on fixed double slide bars instead of the bar/s sliding through the main body. This is a huge benefit to anyone with less bench space. As long as you’re using the vacuum port rather than the dust bag, you can push it right up against the wall.
Cutting is fast (comes with an excellent stock blade), with soft start and motor kill after handle release. Quiet compared to many others. Slide rail is a dream to use. The base bevels easily on the horizontal, with firm click locking on the most common angles and an easy adjustment to fluid freeform angle setting. Vertical bevel is easy and accurate, designed well so it’s not a huge weight and difficult to set an angle left or right.
The cutting flexibility for a 10” is so impressive, it’s better than my old 12”. No wonder this sells for more than the bigger model. If you’re doing something like decking, this thing is adaptable enough to make tricky compound cuts and even a super long straight cut out to 300mm. It’s also got a really tall cutting capacity, so for narrow wood up to 100mm, you can leave the slide locked for stability and cut straight through, for example, 5 stacked lengths of 19mm dress decking or 3 of 32mm in one cut. Huge time save if you have multiple pieces the same size. For me building a deck around my swim spa, it was an unbelievable advantage.
The horizontal handle works well, making it easier to bring the saw down onto the wood, and it’s not fiddly to start, just a simple thumb press on the safety button to release the squeeze handle. There’s a built-in laser, but for me it’s not that helpful, as it’s only on one side and difficult to see in broad daylight. But at least it’s switchable, so I just have it permanently off.
Only two real downsides for me.
1. With wet wood the sawdust pipe clogs. But then that’s probably the same for any of these types of saws. It’s really set up for a vacuum attachment. Minor niggle, though. A manual vacuum at the end of the day and remembering to empty the dust bag 3-4 times if you’re cutting all day is not a great inconvenience to me. 2. The weight. If this will sit on a work bench it’ll never bother you (unless your workbench isn’t strong enough!) but for moving into cutting site daily it’s a bit of a pain. There’s a solid metal carry grip on the top, but at around 40kg, it’s a big lift with knees bent and requiring both hands. Easiest with two people.
Despite the above, I still rate it 5 stars. Beautifully clean cutting, quick, powerful, accurate, quiet and effortless to use. And the fixed slide rails system works really well.
AEG STEP100X
Reliable work horse - still great after heavy use – I have used this jigsaw for hundreds of hours now, and it is still as good as new. It comes with a 6 year warranty, and it looks like I won’t need to… Read more
claim on the warranty. And it was the cheapest 700 watt model on offer at Bunnings.
It has enough power to cut through 50mm planks of wood (fairly slowly of course), and to do everything else I needed to do.
It has all the usual features, such as quick release for the blade, and angle cutting in both directions. The only improvement I can think of would be to have a wing nut to enable angle adjustment, rather than having to use a hex key to loosen the fixing bolt.
Highly recommended.
Best saw on the market hands down for residential carpenters & builders. Compact and powerful. I have had the electric Kapex 120 for 20 years and have just changed to the battery 216mm and I love it!
Disappointing all round – I bought this saw for accurate mitres and longevity - the mechanism promised to be longer lasting in tough conditions because it should not corrode… Read more
like competitors slide mechanisms.
The saw would not cut an accurate mitre and I spent a weekend trying to tune it. I gave up and returned it to Bosch for tuning (the head was not aligned and the fence was not straight). They turned it around in about a week, but it came back within their "acceptable spec", which was a joke as it left significant gaps on any spans longer than 1 meter. On my table saw I have it tuned to 0.1mm per meter, which is acceptable.
I spent a further day making changes and got it down to 0.25mm per meter. But on hardwood the blade drifts in the cut and you get further randomness, especially on long cuts.
My other complaint is that the laser light is only visible in very dark environments and if you are onsite then you have to erect a shad structure to be able to use the laser light function. Hopeless. The laser light is also difficult to adjust.
This saw now only gets used for framing duties and sleepers, but you could spend $500 less and get something that does this job. This saw was the reason that I gave up on Bosch Professional equipment and have systematically changed all my tooling to other brands. Very disappointing.
The saw is very heavy, and it is difficult to lug around, so if you want something for site work, look elsewhere. The mechanism that attaches it to the stand (GTA 3800) is great, and the stand is adequate, but doe not have wheels so you need to lift the heavy saw off the stand to move it any distance. The overall build quality is good and it has now lasted a few years, but its lack of accuracy, repeatability, and tunability means it is not fit for purpose as a mitre saw for anything other than framing work.
Dropped my drop saw at the tip – I'm a budget DIY kind of person. A distinct lack of experience and the necessary funds through the years has driven the necessity for purchases at… Read more
the low end of the market My first foray into mitre saws, some 6 years ago, found me purchasing (with some trepidation) an Ozito 210mm compound saw. It turned out to be a very, very noisy workhorse until I attempted a blade change and it's demise resulted in a visit to the local tip's steel bin. And so to the Baumr-AG: as far as I could tell, the current Ozito saw appeared exactly the same as my late lamented iteration. There was little comfort to be had in replacing like for like and I elected to try the only other saw at the same price. I like it a lot: it's lighter than the Ozito, looks neater than the Ozito. It's much less fussy than the Ozito and I find the various locking mechanisms easier to work with, albeit they're very close in style and format. What I do like especially is the starting position. The Ozito required a thumb to flick the guard's main lever to drop the saw. The Baumr-AG has a much neater and smoother flick switch and slide starter with the guard dropping by itself once you start cutting. The laser guide is well placed and well defined, whereas the Ozito's tended to clog up and the guide went missing during operation. It's noisy but slightly less so than the Ozito. If you're on a very low budget and really need a compound mitre saw, I highly recommend the Baumr-AG.
Powerful, Lightweight, Almost Perfect – I do not have a workshop so I need a sliding compound mitre saw that is easy to move and not too heavy (compared to my previous large, heavy 240V… Read more
one). I own quite a few Makita cordless tools so I thought the Makita DLS714 saw would be perfect as it is lightweight (compared to the DLS111 or DLS2111 which are much heavier but provide additional features - laser, depth of cut, larger bevel). The cut is accurate and the motor is powerful enough to cut through 45mm dressed hardwood. I experienced kickback (for the first time in my woodworking life) that was so severe that 2 saw blade teeth were damaged and the back fence was gouged and pushed off line/center by a huge splinter/chip so the saw blade had to be replaced and the back fence sanded and re-aligned. Due to its size (190mm), the bevel angle is limited, there is no laser to align the cut location (I bought a small laser and embedded it near the rubber chip/sawdust extraction port) and the depth of cut is limited, especially for bevel cuts. I am not sure if I would buy this particular model again due to its limited depth of cut - the reason for giving it 4 stars. If you want to add a cutting guide using a light shadow, buy a bendable flexible USB LED light, a USB male female switch cable and a small USB external battery on eBay (total approx cost = $25) and use a hot glue gun to glue the USB LED light in front of the blade, on top of the blade housing but under the blade guide and then position the USB external battery near the carry handle (I used double sided tape, otherwise use velcro).
A good mitre saw – I've had this saw for two years now and apart from a few problems - the fence is weak in the centre, the accuracy of the detent could be improved and… Read more
the connection points for the dust extractors are ordinary - it is a powerful and well built machine. a powerful and well built machine the fence is weak in the centre, the accuracy of the detent could be improved and the connection points for the dust extractors are ordinary
The first thing you should know is that the image of this product on the website is photoshopped, specifically the saw is photoshopped onto the… Read more
stand. Why they've done this instead of simply taking a pitcure of the assembled unit, I have no idea. It would have helped a lot because the saw doesn't fit on the stand as shown. I've attached some pics of what the unit looks like assembled to help. Most of my pics have the lock still in place. When you take it out, the saw will rise to its highest point.
First impressions - it's actually pretty decent. The stand is good despite the image being wrong. It comes with brackets with easy release handles. It all looks quite well built.
Important assembly note, the bolts that hold the saw to the stand braces are the wrong type to have the head of the bolt on top, so the only way to bolt the saw to the stand's quick release brackets is with the nut at the top. This causes bevel lock to hit it. You can see this in on of my photos. If they had supplied better bolts it would help. Then again, the stand isn't really made for this larger saw obviously because one of the bolts sits right on the hinge of the quick release and you wouldn't be able to get a socket in there to tighten it anyway. Someone should fix this because it's one of the few stupid things about this unit.
Accuracy: the bevel guage is horrible. Someone didn't quite know how to draw degree lines obviously. The little arrow that points to the degree marker is also horrible because it barely has a point on it. The label was damaged on mine and will likely fall off. Hopefully not. There are notches for zero and 45 degrees though, which seem to be fairly accurate on the bevel and on the table. The table lables are good and quite accurate. The table zero (90 dregree cuts) is 0.1 degrees off and there's not much you can do to change it because it's locked by the notch. That's still fairly accurate IMO. The 45 degrees on either side of the table were off slightly as well, but accurate enough for my work. When cutting at 45 degree angles, there was some lateral wobble in the blade as it spun, but it went away and din't come back for further cutting.
I mention a smell when I started the unit up for the first time in the attached video. It went away fairly quickly and didn't return.
The supplied blade cuts 3mm and the laser is dead in the middle of it and is 1mm wide. I got very sharp cuts with the supplied blade despite it being only 40T.
The slider moves cleanly with no points of resistance.
You can cut groves by setting the blade height and preventing the blade coming down too far. I found that when doing this, the front of the cut was 0.6mm deeper toward the front of the saw vs the back over 100mm. I'd expect about a 2mm depth difference over a 300mm piece of timber. This suggests that the slider isn't perfectly parallel to the table.
The manual is barely a manual. They shouldn't call it that. The should call it an information sheet.
All in all, I'd recommend the unit from what I've seen so far. It's cheap, but decent.
- See all
A cheap offering, damaging the Metabo brand! – On 17/01/23 I took delivery of a Metabo KS 216 M drop saw. Despite it's professional appearance, it fails to meet some basic standards. Let's start… Read more
with the least important thing which is "dust extraction", and move down. It's almost non existent. As can be seen from my photos, far more sawdust ends up on the saw base than goes up into the collection bag. There were only four cuts taken to produce this amount of dust. As I'm now stuck with this saw, I'll see what I can organize in terms of having a vacuum cleaner attached to it.
Now for the all important workpiece clamp, again as can be seen from my photos, if you place the clamp on the right side of the saw, there is no space for the saw body (and blade) to descend into. Therefore it cannot be used in the vertical position. Let's look at the alternative horizontal position. As I have illustrated in the last photo, this would only be suitable for a piece of wood at least as thick as the round part of the clamp head. Any other scenario would be very dangerous. This limits it's horizontal use quite significantly.
Absolutely the most disappointing fault with this saw is it's inability to give accurate cuts. Let me explain. The first thing I did with this saw was to cut a block of wood (as seen in one picture) at 90 degrees and check it with my highly accurate engineers' square. The cut was way off. I loosened the four bolts holding the fence and adjusted it to be exactly square to my blade (perpendicular). I then did a re-cut and found it was still off. I played with this until I got it to the point of being reasonable. I then moved the saw table to the 15 degree position from the direction of the right. I moved it back to the 90 degree position and did another cut, only to find my cut was way off again. I then realized that there is a huge inaccuracy in the "stops" for the mitre settings. Move the table from one direction and "feel" the 15 degree stop, then go to the other direction and back to 15 degree stop and there is a visible difference as to where it stops. I have illustrated this fact in photos. The net effect of this means that unless I set it at 90 degrees and leave it there, any time I want to cut any angle other than 90, let's say 30 degrees, firstly I have to check that it is 30 degrees, and when I'm finished re check my 90 degree setting. To summarize this observation, the "stop points" for the mitre table are loose and sloppy. It's just sheer good luck if you stop at the right place! I bought this saw to do small work like jewelery boxes etc. so accuracy was my top priority. I have completely wasted my money as this saw is suitable for house framing and not much else. There seems little point writing about the few things I like about this saw, as it's inaccuracy overshadows and outweighs everything else.
Jump to:
- What is the difference between a mitre saw and a chop saw?
- Cut-off saws - What does a cut-off saw do? - Can you use a cut-off saw to cut wood? - Who should use a chop saw?
- Mitre saws
- What is a Mitre saw used for? - Do you really need a mitre saw? - Can you use an abrasive blade in a mitre saw? - Should I get a 10 or 12-inch mitre saw? - Conclusion
What is the difference between a mitre saw and a chop saw?
 A cut-off saw, also known as a chop saw. |  A mitre saw. |
Chop saws | Mitre Saws |
| Cut robust materials like metal, masonry and concrete | Better for everyday woodwork, and cutting plastic and composites |
| Can only cut straight at a set 90 degree angle | Can make angled cuts or ‘mitres,’ as well as beveled and compound cuts |
| Large blade size is typically 14 inches minimum | Smaller blade that’s usually 10-12 inches in diameter |
| Stationary cutting motion - can’t pivot left and right | Versatile cutting functions - can rotate, pivot left and right, and sometimes cut on an axis |
| Fast and efficient as an abrasive blade spins very fast - around 5, 000 RPM (revolutions per minute) | Slower and less powerful due to the smaller motor and non-abrasive blade. These spin at around 3, 000 RPM. |
Visually, the design and look of chop saws and mitre saws is similar. Both are tabletop saws, and both have circular blades mounted on a pivoting arm.
There are two main differences. Firstly, a chop saw is only able to make straight cuts at a 90 degree angle. A mitre saw owes its name to the ability to cut at angles. The second main difference is that the type of blade each saw type uses is different.
Cut-off saws are abrasive, whereas mitre saws have toothed blades, which don’t have the brute force of chop saws to cut through durable materials.
Cut-off saws
What does a cut-off saw do?
Cut-off saws can perform a wide range of heavy-duty and rather impressive tasks. This is because their blades are designed for power. As a standard, cut-off saws come with an abrasive blade which - unlike most saws - is toothless.
Instead, a cut-off saw’s blade is a smooth spinning disc, usually with a diamond coating (this kind of blade is constructed from powdered metal over a steel core, with tough, synthetic diamond crystals mixed through it).
This blade is what gives a cut-off saw its renowned ability to easily slice through metals, including ferrous metals.
Chop saws can also cut wood, masonry and composite materials. Even lumber that has nails in it isn’t an obstacle for a cut-off saw with an abrasive blade.
Cut-off saws are also commonly referred to as chop saws, abrasive saws and metal cut-off saws.
Can you use a cut-off saw to cut wood?
While making straight cuts on a piece of wood can be done using a chop saw, it will require additional steps to set up the cut-up saw correctly for the purpose.
This includes swapping out the disc blade of a chop saw with a wood-cutting saw blade with teeth. These multi-purpose blades are more similar to those you’d find on a regular cold cut saw.
Prepping a chop saw to cut wood also requires taking careful measurements, and ensuring secure positioning while you’re cutting the wood.
Safety warning
Since using a toothed blade to cut wood is not a chop saw’s original purpose, it can be dangerous. A toothed blade spinning at 5, 000 RPM can cause kickback and injury, potentially even severing a finger if extreme caution isn’t taken.
Who should use a chop saw?
Due to its pure power, a chop saw can be indispensable for commercial use and using in factories. If you’re a welder, contractor or fabricator you may find that a chop saw gets the job of cutting large sheets of steel done accurately. Thanks to their large, powerful motors, a chop saw will be efficient, too - getting the job done quicker than other tools.
Additionally, chop saws are useful for home construction. You can use them to complete tasks such as cutting stud joints, rafters and trusses, as well as steel tubes.
Safety warning
Chop saws often emit a lot of sparks, especially when cutting metal. Caution should be taken to remove any combustibles at close range, and take appropriate safety precautions to avoid the risk of burns or lacerations.
Mitre saws
What is a Mitre saw used for?
A mitre saw, also called a compound mitre saw, is primarily used for cutting wood, but it can also be used to cut soft metals such as brass and aluminium, as well as plastics and composite materials.
It can’t cut through concrete, ferrous metals, or masonry.
A mitre saw is similar to a chop saw, as it also uses a circular blade on a moving arm to cut materials. However, it can also be used to make angled cuts or mitres, as well as bevel cuts and compound cuts.
- Mitre cuts: You can set the mitre angle to 45 degrees so it swings to either to the left or right. These are commonly used to make half a corner joint for a picture frame or a door frame.
- Bevel cuts: When you set the angle for a bevel cut, the blade will tilt on an axis to make the cut. Bevel cuts are often used on small pieces of moulding and trim. Dual-bevel ability means the direction of the angle can be towards the left or right.
- Compound cuts: This involves setting a mitre angle and a bevel angle together, so the blade swings either to the left or right, along with tilting on an axis. These are often used for crown moulding.
Do you really need a mitre saw?
Mitre saws are commonly used by DIY-ers for home woodworking projects. They’re also a must-have in the power toolbox of carpenters, woodworkers and contractors.
If you don’t need to cut through durable metals with iron in them (ferrous metals), a miter saw may be more useful than a cut-off saw.
Mitre saws are great for adding finesse to your woodworking. They can make complex cuts cleanly and precisely. Done correctly, they can add a professional finish to a wide range of woodworking jobs.
Can you use an abrasive blade in a mitre saw?
While this sounds like a handy function if you occasionally need your mitre saw to cut metal, this is not recommended.
While substituting with an abrasive blade will give you the horsepower you need, this may come at a cost. Due to the high speed,fragments of material will often fly off when using an abrasive saw, which can clog up your mitre saw.
There’s also a plastic insert above the blade of a mitre saw, and this will become extremely hot if you swap out your mitre-saw blade with an abrasive blade.
Should I get a 10 or 12-inch mitre saw?
If you’re not sure, the main thing to consider is both the frequency with which you’ll be using your mitre saw, as well as the size of the materials you’ll commonly be cutting.
While both a 10-inch and 12-inch mitre saw are capable of cutting a 4 x 4 inch sheet of material, a 12-inch blade will cut cleaner and faster. The blade is larger, the teeth will be sharper, and the number of teeth per inch are higher.
This means that if you’re using your mitre saw frequently, especially for large projects or to cut larger pieces of wood, a 12-inch mitre saw will save you a lot of time. A 10-inch blade can also be slotted into a mitre saw that originally has a 12-inch blade inside it, if you need to complete smaller tasks.
Some downsides of using a 12-inch blade compared to a 10-inch one are that these models are harder to source and replace, more expensive, larger and more bulky - so less easily portable.
Conclusion
Overall, whether you end up buying a cut-off saw or a mitre saw depends on the type of material you commonly cut, what kind of projects you’re usually working on and how much brute power you need to complete your jobs.
A cut-off saw is better for metal and cutting straight, whereas a mitre saw is more suitable for woodworking, and finessing your projects due to its versatility in creating angles and different types of cuts.