Simpson 39P400M Questions & Answers

If motor is running, maybe the drive belt is worn or low tension?

Start capacitor is the most common reason motor won't spin, turning drum by hand and quickly closing door and pressing start whilst drum moving is the usual check for this. If you can hear the motor spinning up then ask yourself... Has the belt failed?

Motor needs replaced

From memory when you push the door lock button that also energises it, makes it turn on.

Thanks for replying. yes, it does start the machine as well. So can I take that as confirmation it is not supposed to stay closed without pushing in the button?

Ok had the same issue along with a few others on this thread. Took to back cover off and could see greater cycling on and off so it was ok. Noticed that there was a lot of lint ON UNDERSIDE of door face where you couldn't see it. Cleaned it off and it worked. Believe the lint was causing an air leak around the door and therefore wasn't sucking air through the heater meaning the heater was getting too hot and thermostats were switching it off. Once the door leak was fixed, air flowed over the greater and all was good.

I just pulled the back off mine found it was the belt had slipped off / re attached it and back in action again

Dannielle, did you find out the cost or suspect broken part? Because Mine is now in the same boat, timer ticking and a humming sound(motor?), and heater, but a slight smell. I was having to manually rotate it to get it started (Starter capacitor died) but now even doing that doesn't work.

This is not major there could be lint holding the door away from the closing plate or the switch that makes contact with the button lever that is seen from the outside where the door makes contact with the cabinet - check that the two tex head screws are tight - also check the screws holding the door hinge are also tight -it is a contact issue and the switch inside is not making full contact hence slamming the door enables the button lever make full contact with the switch inside. If switch is faulty then warranty claim.

I have this same issue. But slamming it sometimes doesn’t work either. How’d you go fixing it or did you just get a new one?

Try the 2 thermostat buttons that attach to the heater element;( they are a small round unit about the size of a 10cent piece with 2 wires each)

timer knab, change or lokk

To Bearman : the replacement heater element is new. The 2 thermostat buttons are new . After replacing ,the heater comes on briefly .when it coolers it will come on again when switched on .( only briefly)

To Pebbles : timer knob and heat switch are operating ok.

Can anyone help. ?? Obviously a simple solution . This unit is as new ! Taking it to a pro is not worth while

hi jac it is 2 and half stars but it does not make a real difference to my electricity account hope that helps

Mine is mounted upside down and I have no issues.

You should get onto the manufacturer.

I have never heard of this try mounting it the right side up. If you still have problems contact your place of purchase. Good luck

If it's under 2 years old go through the place you purchased it Mention you called consumer affairs and say you were told warrenties should be based on the cost you pay for an item $300 is not something you expect to pay every 12 months

Fight them and hopefully they get a tech out to site at no charge

Thank you but unfortunately it was an inclusion in a new unit we purchased and I have no paperwork on where it was purchased.

Yes never buy this again, there is a 1-1.5 cm rubber band that is probably broken that turns the drum, designed to break, mine did, I ripped it apart to see the problem knowing it was going to cost more to fix than it was worth.

Use choice magazines to choose one that won't be rubbish, that's what I will be doing next time.

I had the same problem and it's a fairly EASY FIX if you're a DIYer. If your dryer is not starting easily, or doesn't start at all but instead just makes a humming noise, it's likely the capacitor needs to be replaced. Once you've replaced the capacitor, it will roar back to life! I replaced mine about two years ago and it's still going strong. From memory the part was around $40, but you can likely pick one up cheaper on ebay. Judging from the questions and the reviews here, it seems to be a common issue.

Hi Neil I placed a piece of timber between my brackets & the wall, then attached the whole thing with roofing bolts. It didn't matter that the brackets don't have a thread. This allows a little extra space for the hose to fit behind so you acheive maximum vetilation.

My existing & previous dryer are the same make so they fit universally on this bracket support.

You'll need somewhere for the air to escape so hang the hose out the window if you're not able to put a vetilation kit through the wall. A brick wall is a nightmare but we'll worth it.

Good luck. Hope this helps. Cheers Clare

I have had a dryer (upside down ) on the wall above washing machine for years - works beautifully. MJ