Error Code 20 and 00...40 - How to Fix – 6yrs old. Functionally the dishwasher has been very good. Mostly use the Eco function. Would have rated higher but was most disappointed with the so called brushed stainless steel finish, which turned to crap not that long after purchase with rust spot staining, and the plastic control panel where the buttons and door catch are which also deteriorated a lot.

Having recently encountered both Error 20 and Error 00..40 in this 6 yr old Westinghouse 6605XR dishwasher, here’s my opinion on these & how to fix. Error 20 - I believe this is most likely related to a blockage of the inlet in the sump that is responsible for helping the Pressure Switch register when the sump has been emptied or possibly a faulty Pressure Switch itself.. I believe that over time the inlet becomes blocked/partially blocked by a jelly like residue from the dissolvable material that is used to encapsulate the detergent tablets. This is why the timing of the occurrence varies so widely amongst the users and why the fault appears intermittent.

Error 00....40 - has to do with vermin excrement (probably cockroach) contaminating the electronic circuit boards.

Error 20 is most likely due to the Pressure Switch not working properly. This might mean the switch itself is faulty or it may just mean that the feedback mechanism is compromised. In my case, when the machine flashed 20, the sump was empty which was exactly what it was supposed to be after pump out. But unless the Pressure Switch registers “empty”, the machine will re-perform the pump out cycle twice and then raise Error 20. So, all the water had pumped out ok but the pressure switch was not registering this. I could subsequently fill the bottom of the machine with water (about 3 litres), close the door, turn the power off and on and the cycle would restart and continue. This higher water level was enough pressure to kick the switch back into action and continue the cycle. Probably a partial blockage that was getting worse and worse. Check the pressure monitoring cavity in the sump is not blocked. Remove the filter plate and the spray arm and look down into the sump. You need to stick your head inside the machine. There is a rectangular shaped cavity slightly past the 6 o’clock position on the ridge just before the very bottom (See pictures). Under the machine, a hose runs from this area of the sump to the pressure switch. The hose DOES NOT carry water. It senses changes in air pressure in the hose caused by the water level in the sump. The pressure switch sits on the chassis on the right hand side of the machine ABOVE the sump water level. So, if the cavity is blocked or partially blocked the switch won’t function properly. It’s not an easy part to clean out because access is limited and you don’t want to force water up the hose and into the Pressure Switch. It’s a bit of mucking around, but I took the machine outside and dismantled. I removed the switch from the hose and blew back up the hose. A huge amount of black jelly like gunk came out. This is a build up of gel residue from using tablets and I would say the cavity was almost blocked. If you look under the bottom spray arm, you might also see this black residue build up. (I have seen similar residue built up in my washing machine from using pods. The gel covering does not dissolve properly and leaves a residue which breaks free & contaminates the water with small brown flakes.) I removed the pressure switch and hose, having already bought a replacement. In order to make sure any water drained well away from the electrical parts of the machine, I removed the reducer plug and lengthened the old hose by adding a bit of garden poly pipe. I put it back on the sump and used the garden hose to thoroughly clean out the sump and especially the cavity identified above by spraying water directly in and letting the water drain back out through this hose. Do this until the water is pretty clean. Blow back up through the hose to be sure it’s clear. Attach the new hose & switch or reattach the old one. Make sure there’s no water or moisture in the pipe Part No: 1174745107 - SWITCH PRESSURE ANALOGIC COMP Dismantling- Best done somewhere with plenty of space and where you don’t mind water spilling. Take pictures so you know how to put it back together. - Unplug all power! - Make sure you have a something you can lie the machine on that will keep it up off the ground & ensure the hoses aren’t damaged!! - Remove the Top. - 2 x Screws at rear, slide back and lift off. - Remove cover at bottom front. Tilt machine back or lie it on its back. You need to put your hands under and toward the back of the curved underside and just push slightly. It will unclip and you can take it off over the feet. - Remove RHS cover. (The pressure switch is mounted on the right side.) - Remove the Pressure Switch from the chassis. Couple of plastic locking tabs to depress. Be careful not to break the plastic. - Remove the electrical connector from the pressure switch. There’s a locking tab you need to push down on as you remove. - Lie machine on back. - Remove the white front feet - Remove the metal cover - You can also remove the white plastic tray from the bottom if you want. Held in place by plastic clips. Depress with screwdriver and unclip. - Remove Pressure switch hose. Pair of pliers to squeeze hose clamps. Note, if you shine a torch through the rectangular part of the sump where the pressure switch hose connects, you might be able to note a black colour inside the cavity. This is gunk. - Blow up through the pipe and see if any blockages. - You will now attempt to wash out the sump. Fashion a longer hose to connect to the sup so that the water drains well away from your work area and the electricals of the machine. - Temporarily replace the front feet & stand the machine upright. - Use a garden hose and spray out the sump with water jet. It should drain through the hose you’ve attached. Keep doing this until you’re happy that it’s pretty clean & free of blockages. Blow back up the hose to be sure. - Make sure the pressure switch hose is clean & free of water. - ReAssemble new/existing pressure switch. - You can test by:- Fill Sump with water. If you overfill it so that it's nearly overflowing out the door, the pump should automatically pump it down to a level that's safe. Close Door Plug into power Warning Be careful of live power!! Put drain pipe on the garden or in a bucket Turn the machine on. If you overfilled it, the pump should pump out to a safe level. Select say Eco cycle. Press Start Water will pump out. Cancel the wash when no more water. The only way to tell if it is truly fixed is to run a full cycle. Turbidity Sensor - While you have the machine apart, you might as well clean this component and the chamber it sits in too. Senses how clean the water in the sump is by shining light through the water. It has 2 "legs". One leg shines the light through the water and the other senses it. I think it might only be used on the "Sensor" setting. It's a maroon coloured item just to the left of the pressure sensing chamber. You'll need to remove the electrical wire and carefully remove the sensor from the sump. You don't want to break the plastic tabs that secure it in place. Remove it & clean it thoroughly, especially between the 2 "legs", being careful not to damage the gasket. You don't want it to leak after you put it back.

Error 00..40 I had this for a short period of time. When I dismantled the machine to look at the Error 20, I noticed plenty of cockroach poo in it. Where electronics is concerned, vermin excrement can be a big problem. I removed the circuit boards and sure enough, a lot of cocky excrement across plenty of tracks & components. The worst case was the board that housed the buttons & display but the main power board also had some problems. I painstakingly cleaned these with isopropyl alcohol (methylated spirits would also be OK). Problem solved. To remove these boards: - Take plenty of pictures to help put it back together - Unplug ALL Power!! - Remove screws on either side of inside door. This will enable you to remove the stainless steel cover. Be careful not to bend it. - Screws at the top of the door hold the section that has the door catch & buttons. Don't remove teh two big ones. They're for the door catch. - The electrical boards are in white plastic cases. You need to remove these & get the boards out. - Using a cotton wool bud &/or a clean cloth, GENTLY clean the boards thoroughly with isopropyl or metho and cotton wool bud. - Put it all back together being careful not to pinch any wires. (good luck )