Bushman Fridges DC85-X Questions & Answers

HI Larissa, Yes, to run DC85-X from 240V mains power, you will need a step down 240V to 12V transformer. This comes with an Anderson plug ready to go. Any other queries just let me know. Thanks, Tommy

I think DC85x should be a good fridge. I have DC130X which struggles a bit with our hot climate, i think they run same compressor.

Thanks. I am just trying to work out how to actually plug it in ….. the connection on the fridge is an Anderson plug but the point on my Victron inverter is a 240 v point

Hi Sidcam, Thanks for the message. You can run the DC85-X directly from your battery bank if it is 12V or 24V, without going via the inverter, this would be the most efficient way. If you would like to run the fridge from 240V, you will need to use a 240v to 12V transformer. We sell these on our website. Hope this helps, Tommy

Hi danniskye, For DC85-X you could just get away with a 15A rated switch for isolation. We recommend this so you can cut power to the fridge completely when it is not in use. As you have suggested, you could install a fuse and simply pull the fuse instead of installing a switch. Our preference is to avoid using a shared fuse panel if there is a shared circuit behind the fuse block (buss bar). Danfoss compressors runs optimally from a fully dedicated circuit, both on the positive and negative from the compressor to your battery terminals. Therefore an inline fuse is our preferred setup. Hope this helps. Tommy

Hi Dan, best thing to do is cut power to the fridge completely, dry the inside with a towel, then leave the door open so it does not get mouldy. It is fine to keep it off. Cheers, Tommy

Hi Vanentin, I received your email today too and have replied for you directly. Thanks, Tommy

Hi Nathan, There could be a few different reasons why you are experiencing a change in your fridge performance. When a battery gets older, it runs out of puff a lot faster. It's possible that at times the fridge could be sensing low voltage and stopping and starting which would explain the extra run times too. We have a really detailed troubleshooting guide in the latest owners manual here: external link  If you still have any concerns, please contact us directly info@bushman.com.au or via phone 03 8080 9990. Thanks, Tommy

Hi Anthony, I think this questions is a double up :)

Hi Craig, thanks for your question. Eventually the ice will hinder the fridge cooling performance. Might be worth turning the fridge off, letting the ice melt, dry the fridge out with a towel, and start it back up on setting 3. Cheers, Tommy

Thank you will give that a go. Cheers

Hi Anthony, Thanks for your question. With our upright fridges the compressor is located at the top, rear, right hand corner. Being in this location is best for its efficiency, but in the back of a 4WD the compressor will be in direct ear shot from the driver and passengers. You will definitely hear the compressor alot more than with a chest fridge (in a chest fridge the compressor is tucked away down lower). Some customers find the knocking / bumping noise of the compressor when you hit little bumps annoying, others do not mind at all. Hope this helps, Tommy

Hi Jack, thanks for the message. Sounds like the compressor tries to start, senses low voltage and stops. We have a detailed troubleshooting section in the latest owners manual here: external link  Or you can contact us direct 03 8080 9990 or info@bushman.com.au

Hi Alex, Thanks for the question. Do you have much ice build up on the freezer? This is usually the first place we look when a fridge suddenly is not cooling the same as it used to. Second thing to look for is any voltage drop between the battery and the fridge as this will cause the compressor to stop running at times. Often we see this as a battery agers and struggles to hold good voltage. Feel free to contact us direct info@bushman.com.au or 03 8080 9990. Also you could download the latest owners manual from our website which has a super detailed troubleshooting section too. Cheers, Tommy

Hi Karen, A 100Ah lithium is a great size for this fridge. You do have the potential to add more solar to a battery of this size, we would normally spec around 300 watts. Then you can harvest maximum power when the sun is shining to get the battery back to 100%. If you get into a situation where you have 4 days of no sunshine in a row, you will need to charge the battery either from starting your car, or using a battery charger. You would need to power the battery charger from either a 240V socket or from a small petrol generator. The benefit of your lithium battery is it can handle being drained down to around 15% occasionally without harming the battery. Hope this helps, Tommy.

Thankyou so much, your help is appreciated, we are going to Repco today to buy a battery charger, any particular brand/model

You will need a lithium compatible smart charger. 15A will be fine. If you want a really top quality one, we sell the BMPRO 15A smart charger online with free express post shipping. external link  These are hand made in Melbourne too :)

Thankyou for your reply

Hi, we installed a DC130x about 4 years ago and have had amazing performance with the thermostat set at 3-3.5 the fridge always held 3-6 degrees in up to 36 degree ambient whist driving. But mid way through this trip it changed and on the first occasion with thermo at 3 was struggling to keep 10-11 degrees. So thermo is now set at 5 and still to just holds 9 degrees in same driving conditions also overnight with outdoor temp at 25 it struggles to get 8 in fridge. We have no problem with voltage as the lithiums are giving 13.3v consistent and also no ice in the freezer. Compressor is cycling but won’t stay on for more than 5min each cycle. What do you suggest is wrong? Or has happened in the one event?

Hi Kevin, Thanks for the details. As you referred to already, voltage is the most common culprit for a fridge that all of a sudden starts playing up like this. I think it is worth exploring that avenue a little more first. Best thing to do is run the fridge form a different power source that is not connected to your current DC system (stand alone charged car battery) with as short a lead as possible and see what results you get. Flip me an email info@bushman.com.au and let me know how you go. Cheers, Tommy

Thanks Tommy, I’m pretty sure voltage was good as my battery monitor keeps a continuous record of this and it never went below 13v. But I’ll measure at the fridge itself to confirm if any drop. Anything above say 12.5v should be fine right?

Hi Kevin, DC power is very sensitive to changes in voltage and ripples caused by other devices connected to the same system. Almost always these issues appear from nowhere in a system that has been working perfectly well for some time. Trying to find the cause using a testing device can work very quickly, it can also not show any errors depending on where the problem lies. Some fluctuations in voltage are instantaneous due to in rush current and need very precise equipment to measure. In our experience the best thing to do after checking with a meter, is trial and error with devices, so to connect the fridge directly with short wires to a stand alone power supply that is not connected to anything else. That way you will know immediately if the issue is in the DC system or not. From there you can work through a process of elimination.

Hi Valentin, thanks for the message. The variance is most likely from the position of your thermostat, compared to the where the fridge measures the temperature. There will also be some radiant heat / cool from the freezer and large air temperature fluctuations when the door is opened that will affect the temperature reading. This is the reason we do not put digital temperature readouts on low-power upright fridges. If you would like to get the most accurate temperature data, please use a thermal mass. As for the ice, 10 days sounds too fast! Cn you please send some photos to us info@bushman.com.au, from close up and further back, when the freezer needs defrosting and we can take a look and come back toy you. Thanks Tommy.

Hi Emi, thanks for the message. The fridge should easily last 2 days and nights on the 130Ah battery (if it is fully charged and still in a good condition) without running the battery too far down. It will probably run for 3 days and nights or more at this time of year. It is always good to keep your batteries topped up as often as possible, as they will last alot longer. A 250W solar panel would be the right size for that battery. For detailed info on low voltage, please download the latest owners manual from our website and see the troubleshooting section on page 10. Heaps of good info there. Cheers, Tommy

Hi Sparksy, definitely install a switch for the fridge circuit. When the thermostat is on 0, the compressor is still receiving power, so an isolation switch for the fridge circuit is the best. Tommy

Hi Elodie, the red LED is flashing to let you know the voltage is dropping too low. If you download the latest owners manual from our website it will talk through how to troubleshoot that. A 200W solar blanket would be ok for a battery around 100 - 130Ah (AGM battery). If you have a bigger battery than that, you should consider a bigger solar panel too. Cheers, Tommy

Hi Phil, first thing to do is slide the shelves out, and the sides are slotted, so you can bend the sides outwards so that when you slide them back in, they are a tight fit. Tommy

Thanks Tommy Will try. Phil

With the light on I would say the power is still on and fridge would be drawing current look at turning control button back to zero and see if light goes out. When I rang bushman before fitting my fridge they suggested putting a isolation switch in the power supply so when that is off definitely no power to fridge.Hope this helps.

Turning the fridge back to zero turns the fridge off, but unfortunately the light stays on while the door is open and you need to leave the door open when not in use! Like Simo said, an isolator switch is the answer. I just pull the fuse out, when not using it. One day I'll have an isolator switch fitted.

Yes, isolation switch or 15A breaker, so there is no chance for any power leakage from your battery when the fridge is not being used. :)

BMPRO 15Amp is a good brand an dwill definatly do the job (and more) external link 

It all depends on which way you would like to connect it. I hard wired my fridge personally as it stays in my canopy full time. You could use an Anderson plug if you want to remove it regularly. It all depends on your circumstances.

Hi Keith, My DC130x came with a connector (unsure what its called tho) either way, I cut it off, soldered on a cable extension to connect it to batteries.

Hi, we supply soldered wires so that customers can use the connection of their choice (anderson, terminal block, cigarette, 2 pin, spades etc). Tommy. BUSHMAN