Giantz 92cc Commercial Petrol Chainsaw

Cheap beast that does the job – This chainsaw has plenty of power but its not the easiest to use - it has a few flaws which take getting used too. I bought this to fell a few trees on the driveway and my father in laws chainsaw is ready for retirement, initially it worked great but you need to get used to having a stand, trainer or ute available to sit it down, the air filter is… Read more

pretty much rubbish and is located directley on the bottom of the saw causing obvious issues if you place it on the ground while running. The saw starts so easy and was running really well until it was run in, then i started having issues with the idle adjustment which is a screa at the end of a rubber straw, to learn this took a lot of painful photo and video sending to the seller from Ebay. For cutting up 5 large old gum trees its been great at the cost of $200. The alternative saws will cost far more and not worth it for someone who uses a saw every few years.

Acceptable but not without problems – You're probably considering this saw because you either need to tidy up a yard or cut up some of your own firewood and in either case, an inexpensive saw is cheaper than paying someone else to do it/provide it for you. Fair enough. And look, it's an acceptable saw with a string of caveats, but don't buy it unless you're prepared to make peace with… Read more

the following: You're going to have to tinker with it. If you're not a tinkerer, you'll be buying a swiftly delivered box of garbage.

It's pretty clear that whoever manufactured this thing has never used a saw and doesn't know anyone who does and thinks that quality control is optional.

Here's the good things about it: It's pretty easy to start. You'll find lots of reviews saying that it isn't; I'm pretty sure these people have never used a saw before. It's 2nd or 3rd stroke and quite easy. It also has plenty of power. I don't have the ability to manually measure the displacement, but I believe that the 92cc is probably genuine.

Now, here are the things that you are definitely going to need to do to the thing to have a half-useful power saw. Don't be the type of person to read about these things and then go ahead and order the saw anyhow and hope for the best. These things are going to go wrong and you need to know about them and feel comfortable that you can fix them.

1) The chain is, unsurprisingly, garbage. Poorly sharpened and (unusually) stretchy. Order a replacement at the same time you order this. 2) You'll have to take care placing the saw on the ground because of the bottom air filter, which is just one of those nylon screens. There's nothing between it and the outside world, and it is flush with the bottom.. I haven't put a hole in it yet but I am definitely going to at some point. So are you. 3) The bar isn't all it could be. It's fine upon arrival but keep an eye on chain wobble; I've dressed mine a few times with a hammer or you can actually buy a roller thing that closes the gap a bit. Or, again, just buy a better one that fits. If your bar starts pinching in your cut or it starts wanting to veer off in your cut, check the wobble and sharpen the rubbish, stretchy chain which I told you to replace but you didn't to save money. 4) The chain tensioner is a joke. It's a little worm drive assembly which tensions from the side, which is fine, but it is housed in plastic in the sprocket cover. You're going to break that the first time you use it. "No I'm not" you might say. Yes, you are. As soon as you kick back, or cut with the top of your bar, it's going to break. The solution to this is to either manually pull the bar and fasten the nuts while hoping it's at the right tension or near enough, like they used to in the good old days. Or what I did was find a long screw with the right thread and length and bodgied up a tensioner with a screw head right next to the bar like some other saws have and remove the little worm drive entirely. So far, touch wood, this has lasted. 5) The sprocket is retained with a flimsy e-clip, which is more fragile than a very fragile thing, that is going to break too within an hour of use and the roller bearing is going to start boring out through your sprocket cover in a bid for freedom while your saw starts inexplicably wobbling and the chain derails and you try and figure out what has gone wrong. Get a proper e clip (a 12mm shaft) 6) The bar oil leaks from both the saw and from the cap. The seals are bad. There's a problem with the pump too but I haven't figured that out yet... (only just noticed it) 7) The carburettor will need some adjustment. The idle screw, FYI, is a phillips head right on the carby, you'll see it if you get the light right and look through the hole. It took me a little while to figure that out. It came with the L screw way too rich. So yes, you'll be tuning that once you've run it in a little. 8) I'm of the understanding that if you make the mistake of loosening the oil feed screw to much it will fall out and it's a massive pain to get back in. 9) the chain brake is so stiff and clunky it can't possibly be effective 10) the clutch in mine never fully disengages. Advancing the chain during sharpening is difficult due to compression of the motor and will actually turn over the motor.

Just pretty poor quality build, you know? But if you are happy to have a tinker you will have a servicable saw which should do what you want it to do. Eventually. :)