BMW R 1200 RT Questions & Answers

Try to flush the brake fluid thur if that does not work I'm unsure

Good luck... BMW seem to like selling the ABS unit as a whole unit (AU$3030 + Installation Labour). They have adopted John Deere's 'right to repair' philosophy. I had a pressure sensor fault in my ABS and nobody would touch it. The ABS unit is now in the local landfill along with the ECU, wiring harness and ZFE unit. BMW are all about locking their bikes down electronically to coerce you into their dealer workshop for the most basic of issues.

Funny enough just this morning I received a letter from the BMW Group Australia with reference to my chassis number to get me to replace the rear wheel flange for being faulty. Sadly mine had failed earlier and I replaced it at my expense. So to answer your question, having the bike serviced with an authorised repairer ensure you're in the information loop.

You will not believe this... This morning i received a letter from BMW Group (customer relations manager) I was automatically registered on their website when i purchased the bike. I appreciate the service, and i think me and BMW are going to become good friends. Happy days and hours of fun on my BMW. Thanks REMCO.

Battle axe

Ask the owner if it was used for daily commuting in the city to work or used for touring. City riding is hard on the bike compared to the open road. The reason I mention that is that these bikes have a clutch at the rear of the engine that are expensive to repair...quite a job to get to it and replace the clutch assembly. Something with that many kms on it in city traffic may be due for a new clutch down the track. Of course you can gauge clutch wear by how far you have to release the clutch lever before the bike starts to move off from stationary. If the lever is a long way out - IE 3/4 of it's travel or more it is a clear indication that the clutch plate is worn. If there is a shudder as you release the pedal that is also a sign of a uneven wear in the clutch.

The engine's rear main oil seal can go and cause oil to get onto the clutch plate hence creating poor clutch performance. If there is any sign of oil under the rear of the engine (even weeping slightly) that is a good indicator of a leaking rear seal. Also check the drive shaft for any leaks or excessive movement in the outer housing. All in all they are a great bike and very reliable.. I am giving you a mechanical point of view to just check it out so you don't get hit with expensive repairs down the track. Hope this helps!

Thanks guys this is very helpfull. Hope you have a great day.

Battleaxe.

My mechanic told me once that I should get 100k out of the clutch 'at least'. Whatever BMW are very expensive on parts. Apart from their modification, with safety rails and converted back seat there is the question of the colour, white. For some reason there is a stigma around that and the poice bikes sell at a big discount. Respraying is not only expensive, the duco is imho never as durable as the original. Unless cash strapped (and if so, dont buy a BMW) I would not buy one for not making economic sense unless you dont intend to sell it.

A "dinosaur"? Hmmm I just rode from Townsville to Perth, 7 000km on the RT in ten days. It purrs at 130kph (in the NT :) ) and steers itself by leaning into the curve of the road. It's quiet, easy to maintain (no coolant for example), a low centre of gravity, light with high power to weight ratio and comfortable to sit on for a 12 hour day doing 1200 km Newman to Perth in one day (and I'm 65 btw). I can see reason for moving to a lighter bike eg the Honda NC700 or whatever), but not a stripped down version of the RT. I can see reason for the cost and availability of parts to change, but this aint a dinosaur. I have two RTs btw.