MikroTik CRS305-1G-4S+IN
MPN: CRS305-1G-4S+IN1 review
I really like this switch (with the option to use it as a wired router as well) for it's 10Gb performance, reliability, adaptability, and price. It's also silent, small, and can be installed pretty much anywhere. Like all SFP+ network devices, each port can be used using different connections. You can use DAC cables for in-room and affordable high speed links to NAS systems from your nearby workstation. At the other end, you can use fibre.... (which, with the right modules to go hundreds of metres or even kilometres between devices, completely interference free). Of course, you can even use SFP+ to RJ45 modules too for legacy ethernet connections. They work well, but have drawbacks.
MIX AND MATCH AS NEEDED:
You could put a different type of connection on each SFP+ port of this switch and get 10Gb throughout! Although in my real world tests, if the devices at both ends are fast enough, I get between 8.2-9.12Gb/s on DAC cables, about 9.05-9.3 on multi-mode fibre, and a surprising 8.6-9.22Gb/s through an RJ45 module when shifting large contiguous files. That's consistently above 82% of theoretical threshold. However, a transfer is only as fast as the slowest device in the chain. Please remember that, and sending lots of little files will be much slower than a contiguous block of data, say in a huge video file.
CABLES & MODULES NOT INCLUDED, FLEXIBILITY NEEDS CAREFUL CONSIDERATION:
NOTE: All of the cables and modules listed above are separate purchases. They are not included with this switch. Also, no matter how you use this switch, each approach requires devices at the other end to suit the cabling used. However, 10Gb SFP+ network cards are not much different in price to normal RJ45 10Gb network cards. In fact, they're often cheaper!
For close range connectivity "in room", this switch with some DAC cables offers one of the cheapest and simplest ways to get true 10Gb links throughout.
If going further afield between rooms or even buildings, or in industrial settings, fibre is immune to all RF and electrical interference. Depending on the modules you install, multi-mode fibre modules can get 10Gb over 300, and even 500m, depending on the cable standard. Single mode fibre can reach 80Km or beyond. (Naturally that's more expensive).
You can also install an RJ45 module and connect using standard ethernet cables.. but I try to avoid it as the modules are very expensive, (more than multi-mode fibre ones at least), and they run hot (and as a consequence, have a shorter life span).
WHY DON'T I JUST USE WI-FI?
While mesh-based Wi-Fi systems are on the rise, many places are just not ideally suited to their use, particularly over longer distances, in areas with high amounts of interference, and where obstructions pose a problem. Also, cabled systems are generally more reliable, perform better, offer greater security, and can even be cheaper than some high end mesh network kits.
Interestingly, WiFi 7, the latest and greatest WiFi offering at the time of writing.. well it's highly vaunted "46Gb/s max speeds" is entirely theoretical. With the walls in the house and 15m distance from the router, I get only 4-6Gb/s. With all the other wifi devices around the home, that total bandwidth gets shared... and not always ideally. So performance strays even further from ideal conditions. That wastes more time than you might think, and it's always cumulative when time is money.
BACK TO THIS MIKROTIK CRS305
One of the under-rated features of this switch is the dual power supply ports. If you have two separate power circuits, you can plug a power adaptor into each, and if either goes down, the switch will keep functioning. It's not something you see on consumer grade hardware, even at higher price points. That said, you'll need to buy the second power supply separately, as that isn't included.
I've installed these switches for a variety of clients in about 30 different locations, with some in domestic, commercial and industrial settings over the past 8 years or so. I even use them in my home to link the "shed down the back" to the primary router, and another of these switches at the other end of the property where most people in our home spend their time.
IS THIS REALLY A SWITCH OR A ROUTER?
Mikrotik offers two operating systems for this unit, a switch OS, and a router OS, which you have to install in order to swap over. It's not difficult to do, but it's also not "incredibly intuitive" either. Please read the manual beforehand to avoid frustration.
While both OSes work, I feel the router OS on this hardware isn't the best fit, but "it'll do in a pinch" if you need to. I prefer to keep this as a switch and let more powerful hardware take care of the routing needs. In either case, there's a console port to manage the settings. You can access it through the 1G ethernet port on the device, or remotely access the OS and make adjustments as a managed switch or router as needed once remote access is configured. Honestly, I always wish it had ONE more port..... but then, I'd probably want another one after that. Mikrotik makes an 8 port model, which almost twice the price, but then, you're getting twice the capability and more powerful hardware a little more suited to the RouterOS.
I like Mikrotik for the build quality, it's cheaper than Cisco by a mile, there's a distinct lack of "up selling" network protection plans/subscriptions like Netgear, and Mikrotik hasn't had any major problems relating to questionable data collection/security concerns that TP-Link has suffered from.
What's not to like?
Follow-up · UPDATE: Product Review has sent me a message stating: Top follow-up questions readers have asked about your review: Any cooling requirements? What about power consumption? How about software updates? So let's answer those in order: COOLING REQUIREMENTS: The Mikrotik CRS305 has no fans whatsoever. The entire case (top, bottom and three sides) has holes purely for ventilation. The last side has all the RJ45 (ethernet) and SFP+ ports... which actually have enough holes there to see through the units other ventilated sides. If you're using fibre or DAC cables, this can work completely passively without any assistance. I've used them in vented industrial control boxes without issue for years on end. That said... If you fill this with multiple SFP+ to 10Gb RJ45 modules, each of those modules run hot... as in, too hot to hold. I would STRONGLY urge you to keep it in a ventilated environment, preferably air conditioned if you want a decent lifespan on your modules. So the issue of cooling becomes far less problematic if you choose NOT to use RJ45 connection and switch out for the cheaper, cooler DAC or fibre options. POWER CONSUMPTION: This is an interesting one. The stock "wall wart" DC power supply is 24V at 1.2A (which if you multiply those numbers, equals 36W max). However, I doubt it uses that much power unless you're running multiple hot-running 10Gb SFP+ to Ethernet modules and flogging the switch with loads of work... I've run up to two such modules with one fibre and another DAC cable on just the stock DC power supply without issue. Power consumption is probably less important that power connection. Please let me explain: I actually forgot to mention in my original review that this CRS-305-1G-4S actually ALSO handles power over ethernet (POE) on it's ONLY 1G native ethernet port. Naturally, it conforms to the usual 12 -57 volt range as specified in the POE standards. Different networking hardware vendors may use a variety of voltages, so it's nice to know that this one can handle any variances you might encounter. Naturally, to ensure complete compatibility, the two dedicated power sockets in this switch are rated to the exact same 12V-57V DC range. You could run this off the included AC power adaptor, POE, or run it off a car battery if you really needed to. NOTE: most vehicles have an alternator that charges the battery... but instead of a nice clean, steady DC voltage, it has lots of peaks and valleys (dirty/noisy power) in that DC voltage that it creates.... which may exceed the voltage range the switch can handle. Although why you'd want a wired switch in a mobile vehicle is not immediately clear to me. I'm more suggesting that you could run this switch off a camping-grade solar rig with a battery for off-grid use. For more mainstream power connections: Got some old DC power supplies floating around the home/office? Put them to work as a FREE backup power adaptor! The switch comes with one power adaptor but has two separate power sockets on the switch itself (which you can use either/both) like POE, either DC socket will take anything from 12V-57V (DC of course) So you could run this from any number of power adaptors (you may have an old one laying about to use as the secondary power supply... as long as it supplies 12-57V, connects to the barrel connector and is of course, the correct polarity). However, if you're going down to 12V, I'd recommend using an adaptor capable of supplying 2.4A DC power supply (to bump that up to equivalent wattage as the original power adaptor). Similarly, if you have a (for example) 48V power supply, you might be able to get away with as little as 0.7A (700mW). That said, for any voltage, if you have little extra current (amps), that shouldn't be an issue... as long as it's not insanely excessive. The dual power sockets are aimed at offering redundancy for network reliability. That said, I've seen "critical installs" with the two power supplies erroneously plugged into the same power circuit. Naturally, having two adaptors in this case will not help if that circuit itself is cut. So please keep that in mind. SOFTWARE UPDATES: The third and final question. I almost always use these devices as switches. I realise that the CRS-305 can run as a router, but the hardware is not ideal for this task in demanding installations. Sure, for a home with a handful of users, it can work, but I wouldn't do this for a core connection in a corporate network. This is MUCH more suited for switch purposes, which the CRS-305 is brilliant at. Updating the switch is a little easier for Windows users if you prefer to use Mikrotik's netinstall app which it called "Winbox" in the manual, (there's no Mac client) but you can use the switch's web interface if you connect through the 1G ethernet port and set your computer's IP manually to be in the same subnet (192.168.88.x if I'm not mistaken.. just don't use 192.168.88.1 since that's the router, replace that x with any number between 2-254 and it should work). I generally don't like blank default passwords. Which Mikrotik actually does... so reset the password as soon as possible. Once you have access, I believe you can upload a new firmware (switch/router OS) which you have to download first from the Mikrotik web site. If you can't use the web interface, you can use the command line tool in Linux if you prefer. I use the Linux tool since I don't use Windows much. Honestly, since new switches come configured as switches by default, it's not often necessary to upgrade the software "immediateluy" to have a reliable networking experience. However, I do recommend updating when convenient for performance and security improvements.
Extra Information
ProductReview.com.au has affiliate partnerships. These do not influence our content moderation policies in any way, though ProductReview.com.au may earn commissions for products/services purchased via affiliate links.