Grillo Climber 7 Series Questions & Answers

Hi Rob, Is it your engine that won't restart or the blade clutch that won't activate? There are from memory 2 safety switches, one under the RHS forward/reverse/park lever and one in the seat. If the blade belt has been thrown it may have knocked the under-lever switch or damaged the wiring to either safety switch or perhaps from the blade switch on dash back to the blade clutch under the motor. I had to replace my under-lever switch once when it failed... 86c on Ali Express! Checking all of this is way easier with body off. Its not a long job to get it off and on. 1) remove roll bar (2 big bolts) 2) remove seat (2 bolts plus wiring plug) 3) remove 4 star headed machine screws on fibreglass body panel (don't need to undo the one on the grey lever panel) and lift it off. You can bypass each safety switch in turn ( seat one needs to be bypassed throughout) and test the results. You can also check wiring for damage more easily and clean & grease with ease. Good luck. S

The cable is a job to get out as it serves both sides via a loop at the pedal assembly. For diagram see: external link . If you're right about the stuck cable (I find that unless you activate the brakes from time to time the drums/shoes get gummed up with grass etc) I'd suggest disconnecting the affected cable end, removing the clamp and boot, sliding a suitable diameter piece of pvc or similar tube over the inner wire cable so it's a tight fit over the outer cable sleeve and long enough to extend out past the end if the inner wire. Clamp or zip tie where it slips over the outer to give a good seal. Then hold the free end of the tube up, pour/squirt in penetrating oil, wd40 or similar and the insert your compressor nozzle into the end of the tube. Turn the pressure down so it doesn't blow things apart and try to pressurize the wd40 thru. Hopefully it will find its way thru and after a good soak (and maybe a few repeats) allow it the cable to be broken free). It might be worth doing the same on the other side before it seizes too. I've used this method a few times to free seized bike brake, handbrake, and vintage speedo cables. Good luck! Cheers Stuart

Hi. My newish battery for my 7.13 is a Katana YRX20L BS FA 18AH 270cca. Its been great for 2+ years already. Length 175mm, width 85mm height 154. Holder wont take any longer or higher but there is room for more width than 88mm Cheers S

That's really helpful Stuart. Thank you so much. All the best.

Check the brake cables are not binding or pulling the brake on when turning. Jack it up and check the wheels are free to rotate, I wound up removing the brake shoes, as the drums kept filling up with debris and jamming the brakes on.

Thanks Neil, I've cleaned out the wheels and pulled out the brake pads. Cleaned it all thoroughly ( I presume the hole where grass gets in is for heat extraction, has anybody covered the hole in any way ?). I found the problem is the bracket between the tie rods and the steering was bent up so I've corrected this.

Hi Paul, how did you go with this as I’m having the same issue. Goes good for five minutes, OK for the next five, starts dying off over next five. When it goes cold and starts again day next day, cycle starts again. Cheers, David

They don't have tubes and are bloody hard to re-inflate if they come off the rim. I used a load binder wrapped around the centre of the tire tread to compress the tire enough to pop it onto the bead.

Try rachet strap around tyre really tight

Update- tightened the screws to the lever and seems to work ok

When you are going up hill and the machine loses traction, turn around and look at each of the rear wheels, they should both be spinning. If only one is spinning, then the diff lock is not working. The mechanism gets sticky and the cable can also sieze up, spray the mechanism and the engagement dogs with wd 40 and work the diff lock pedal repeatedly to free the mechanism up if that is the case.

Thanks, I'll do all this as soon as the rain stops.

That spring may be the belt tensioner spring? It pulls the tensioner idler toward the chassis near the back wheel from memory. It probably broke off the hooked end, thats what happened to mine a couple times, so check if it has a hook on it. If so, you can hook it back onto the lug on the chassis, I made a long hook out of #8 wire to pull it into position as it is too difficult to get at with pliers etc. It is a bit easier if you can remove the wheel... If it is broken, take the spring into Bunnings or Mitre 10, select a similar size spring from their stock and install it as detailed above.

many thanks for your advice. I checked the spring and it was broken. Ordered a new spring but had to take the fibre glass body of to get at it, Finaly managed to fit new spring hope it works now need to get everything back in order.

Check the tyre for Max pressure, it's usually written on the side of most tyres, don't exceed that. I think I ran about 10 psi in the front tyres and 12 psi in the rear tyres, from memory. If you run on steep slopes you may need slightly more pressure as the tyres can dislodge from the rim due to high side loads. Ask me how I know...

Thanks, without asking how you know...

because they are cheap rubbish chains. Take the broken chain to a motorbike shop and get a decent chain. this is what I did and no more problems.

Did you end up getting this fixed? I’m having the same problem.

Ditto. All good until it gets warm. Is there an issue with seals inside the transmission leaking when they get warm.? Did you find a solution?

By engage drive, do you mean the vehicle won't move when you select forward or backward travel, or the blade does not engage? If it won't move, check the transmission linkages to make sure that the selector lever is moving the arm on the transmission. If not, fix whatever has fallen off or become maladjusted. Check the transmission for sign of leakage, if theres oil leakage you'll need to get that fixed and the oil topped up. Also, check the transmission drive belt, make sure it is in good nick and has good tension. If no leakage is present then try bleeding the transmission: Jack the machine up so the rear wheels are off the ground and secure. Place the little lever with the red handle on the transmission at the rear of the machine in the "disengaged" position. From memory, swing it to the left. This lever can be used to allow you to push the machine around when the engine is not running, it must always be engaged when you are driving the machine. Start the engine, run it at least 2000 rpm, then slowly move the travel lever fully forward, then into reverse, do this at least 5 times, shut down the engine, engage the transmission lever, lower the machine and test drive it. If it still won't go you'll need to get the agent to have a look. If it's the blade that won't engage, you'll need to check the micro-switches under the seat and on the controls which prevent the blades going unless you're seated etc.