Ironman 4x4 Fridge Questions & Answers
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What does error 1 mean in Ironman 4x4 ice cube?
The info is available in the user guide! I have provided the link below. "E1 Battery protection stop (Voltage over setting)" I have an old Ironman - E1 meant that the 12v battery power supply was low voltage and not enough to run the fridge. Also Mine and maybe yours has a switch (Low Med High) that causes the fridge to cut off (E1) when the 12v supply drops to particular voltage levels.
"Protection: This unit has an in built automatic low-voltage cutout system, designed to protect your battery from discharging completely. This will automatically turn off the compressor when the battery discharges to Cut-Out voltage (See table below). The compressor will automatically restart when voltage increases to Cut-In (See table below)."
Set. Cut out / cut in LOW 10.2V 11.2V Med 10.7V 11.7V High 11.7V 12.7V
From the user guide at; https://www.4x4modsaustralia.com.au/assets/brochures/IFRIDGE40.pdf?srsltid=AfmBOory9hJ1ahdBDNDShbDQpFOmkouqHtEYTNwV_G44vEjkSa1ZvVHi
Purchased new 2013 50L ice cube Ironman fridge Most of the time it’s on 240v as a little drinks fridge then used camping and bigger trips in the back of the Ute
Recently if I unplug it for a period Then plug it back in on 240v I’ll get a E1 for a few hours before it start running as normal
Also on the last trip 12v set as a freezer driving 9 hours I got a E3 code by the time I got home Food was still cold
Am I at the end of life or anything I can replace to keep it going
Hi to those in the know, my Ironman IceCube freezer section will not freeze and temperature fluctuates every day, the fridge side or left hand is fine, anyone have an idea ?
E1 keeping on tride new Lead and other input no difference
I only ever got E1 when my battery was too low to run it. I am not sure what you mean by 'other input' but try it on 240v. If E1 persists on 240v then The problem could be anything but probably power related. Maybe Ask Ironman.
Gday all i bought a 65L fridge and freezer iv plugged it into power and it won’t turn on what would be the problem?
Crikey it could be anything and everything wrong with it! If it’s new, which you don’t mention, take it back ! Get a volt meter and start testing. Sounds simple but true - check the user guide for correct operation - check the power point works with another appliance - check the cords are plugged in all the way - check for any leds or lights or screens on that indicate power is getting to the unit. - try it on 12 v - use a meter to test the power cord (not plugged into power!!) - check for error code on the panel
After that pfftt. Could be the control circuit board, the physical on off button, the motor, a fuse (?), anything. or answer E - all of the above.
Buy a new one.
H my fridge only works on 240 volts I've checked the fuse and lead and both are ok. I have just replaced the thermistor because it was freezing all the time. Test ran it on 240 volts and all ok untill I plug it into 12v then no go. Battery is fully charged.
I connected my 40L fridge to the campsite's 240v, there was a power surge which I suspect blew something in the fridge (there was a pop sound). After that the fridge did not come on again when connected to the 240v. However when I connect it to the car's 12v, it works just fine.
Those with similar experience, what could have blown/gone wrong and how can I fix it?
Is there a fuse near the power input?
I dare say it’s the fuse. 15amp blue fuse. If not don’t open the unit. Get someone to have a look. It might lead to other problems. Best of luck.
G'day guys.. Having an issue with my icecube fridge, hasn't been on for about 3 months, plugged it into 240v today, got to -1 in about half hour like usual.. Now the display is reading HH and I have no use of any controls. Any ideas..? Thanks, Matt
Hey mate got the same issue, any feed back yet?
hi i have a 50l ironman cant get a display and wont cycle ,big battery fully charged was working both 240 an12v cables getting power but wont cycle, if it is shaken the compressor will start but only briefly
Received new thermostat on e bay your team put me onto part but it is in chinese the wires are plain white and white with stripe so on fridge the wire plug is j2 and pop so what wire goes where please
If your new thermostat does not come with a j2 connector you will have to cut the old connector off it’s thermistor with plenty of wire left on the j2 connector and solder the new one on carefully to insulate the wires from each other. Thermistors do not have polarity, so it does not matter which way round you connect the thermistor.’
My ironmam 50 lt keeps freezing contents when set on 10 16 or 20 degrees any advice please
Probably the thermister. Replace it easily around $10-20 on ebay. Search ebay for: ‘Universal refrigerator freezer fridge temperature sensor probe 2K round head AU’ See my post https://www.productreview.com.au/reviews/90a8ec78-3ec0-56f7-b05f-be9d16e85944
Thanks part has arrived but in chinese so which wire goes where fridge hasj2 and pop pins but nothing on new harness only plain white wire and white with a stripe so which wife goes to which pin
Hi I have a ycd 40 and it has a er1 code on it . How do you reset the error code as it will no go away
Does the E1 occur when running on 240v also? Usually E1 indicates the battery supply voltage detected by the fridge (low med high switch - varies the cut off threshold value slightly) has dropped below the cut off level in order to protect the battery (when on 12v) from excessive discharge.
Was On 12v . Bit when connected to a fully charged battery it doesn’t clear or start up . Hooked it up to 240 and still Came Up er1
On my 74 litre iron man fridge the battery protection light stays on red and won’t cool down any ideas
What temperature do i have my iron man 4x4 for fridge
Typically all refrigerators recommend around 6 degrees Celsius. (Freezers @ -16). I bought a wireless temp gauge so that i could monitor the internal fridge temp in the car rear from a remote unit in the front - i didn’t trust the fridge display).
The internal base of our 50L fridge freezer is warm to touch and a [good] temp sensor says it’s 11deg Celsius even when fridge temp shows -5deg Celsius. Is it normal for Ironman 50L (2017 model) to not freeze on the bottom and only on the walls?
Hi I have an issue with my fridge, i have checked batteries and alternator with no problems present. My fridge battery will only last approx 3 hrs from turning car off. Fridge is set on eco mode. Do you think issue is fridge itself. Sorry im single female don't have much knowledge of cars and set ups etc. Bought car already set up, fridge always stayed on now goes to E1 in fee hours of car being turned off.
How big is the battery? Was it working ok before? Is it being charged from a dc/dc charger? Was the car running for long enough to charge the battery? If yes, then it sounds like your battery is on its way out or has dropped a cell. Drop in to a battery place and have it load tested.
It only gets charged from Alternator while driving, i drive car 1.5 hrs daily. It cant be battery as i took mine out which 148amp hour charged it and put it on another fridge and works fine. New battery in which 104amp hour. Can compressor in fridge be working constantly draining power
Ditto! Ask a battery supply workshop rep to test the battery. More detail… I put a cheap adapter between my 12v socket and fridge to keep an eye in voltage supplied to the fridge. It doesn't tell all the story but helps. There are different types of alternate (2nd) car batteries. Most common is sealed deep cycle lead/acid. When driving the car your alternator will be (hopefully) charging the battery at about 13.9v. When you turn the car off there is typically (should do this) an isolator (ie red-arc isolator) that disconnects the 2nd battery from your starter battery so you don’t run the starter battery flat!!
Now… note that 50% charge equates to about 12.2v. True! Because at that voltage the poor little blighter is starting to struggle to push your 4amp current and still maintain the 12v voltage for your fridge to be happy to run. The battery is a current delivery device. Think of the voltage as a water pipe and the current-ampage as water flow. The battery has limited ability to maintain the current delivery (3amps approx) at the required voltage (12v) So without the car running , running the fridge, waiting a minute for the isolator to click in your battery will read … 12.89v/100% 12.23v/50%, 11.96v/30% Battery experts recommend only discharging 40-50% before recharging. Often driving around town is not enough for a deep cycle 2nd battery to recharge completely.
Buy yourself a 200 watt solar blanket with a charge controller ( a must!!). ‘If using Solar charging then you will need a Solar Controller or Solar Regulator to avoid over-charging the battery.’(ref: external link … and charge up your 2nd battery by plugging it into the 12v fridge socket in your car in your camp or driveway. (NB battery any lower than 11.9v and the battery will possibly be damaged and its life drastically shortened if recoverable at all…but read on).
Your fridge has 3 way switch that detects this voltage supply and switches off (E1 alarm) the fridge if the battery drops to these switched levels to protect the battery: find it near the power cord input to the fridge. fridge switch cut out levels High (11.7v) mid (10.7) low (10.2v) from the specs manual. The cut in level after a cut out is 1v higher.
I find those figures a concern but anyway. So if you set it to high then the fridge will error E1 when your battery drops to around 11.7v. Recommended!
I got my figures off various internet sites and happy to be corrected on the values but the principal is same
external link
Thank you so much for all the info ill go through it all and work it out, appreciate your time and help
Error Code 45? Please explain
What dose HH mean on my fridge?
Ironman YCD74 brings up a E1 and E3 intermittantly on 240v power, how do we rectify this problem?
Our fridge only freeze can it be fixed
If l put drink in fridge it will freeze will not just cool
Same. I saw one blog where a US guy replaced the temp probe and fixed it $10. I have resigned myself to calling it a freezer. … pulled it apart and thermistor probe is split. NTC resistir increases resistance as it gets colder and the control board monitors this. So just bought a 2-50k ohm thermistor $9 and will replace it asap. Problem is that no one knows what the NTC RATED thermistor should be! Can buy different rated ones. Shot in the dark on a 2k version. Let you inow .PS thermistor relatively easy to replace. It is the j2 connector on the cct board mounted on compressor compartment.
Ps: new thermistor worked great ... and still running.
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