Dynamic Power 130Amp MIG Gasless Welder Power Tools Questions & Answers

No, It's definitely not normal. Mine, never cut out, but it just didn't do a good weld.

Does it come on as soon as you turn on the welder or after you have been welding for a while.? If it comes on straight away I would say there is a fault in the welder, if it comes on after a while you have reached the duty cycle of the welder and you just have to wait until it cools down before you can start and weld again. I hope this helps regards Barry.

as barry said if you have been working it to hard on high anps it will get hot if you wont it looked at bring it to me or i will come to you and try it out or call me on 0435014344 leslie

hi chris i wood have to see the welder to see whats going on with it and work it out

I'm after a user manual for the welder,how to load the welding wire,an so forth,the coil ofwire,

The only parts I have purchased are the welding wire that I buy at Bunnings, as for any other parts I don't know where you can buy them.

e-BAY

Depends on what material you are welding. If it is thin metal, like a fence rail, put the switches on 'MIN' and '1' with the speed control on '5'. Material thicker than 3mm requires more penetration so try putting the switch on 'MAX'. I always leave the speed on '5'.

These are general settings only. You really need to setup up some test pieces to find what suits you. Try and avoid letting the gas shield come in contact with the material while welding.

As Waye has said, the switch setting depends on the material you are welding. I find that sometimes a speed setting of 7 or 8 produces more heat and better results. The trick is to supply enough heat to melt the base metal and the slag, but not enough to burn a hole. Don't attempt to lay a bead on thin metal. It will produce too much heat and warp the metal. Instead use a series of 4 or 5 spot welds each lasting about a second or maybe slightly more. Then allow the work to cool before adding another 4 or 5. Practise, practise, practise.

Don't know about the nylon cogs, but this unit looks familiar, and may turn out to be as cheap as buying cogs. There are many similar on eBay. external link  Let us know how you get on. Barry

The current to the wire feed drive motor is quite low so the wiring should not have burnt out. The problem could be caused by the drive motor or the controller board. Both are probably damaged now, so best to replace both of them while you have the welder open.

A cheap drive mechanism can be less than $25 and I have seen controllers from about $6. eBay is your friend. The trick will be to find a combination with the correct mounting points to work with your welder. Note that drive voltage can be 12v or 24v. You could check the voltage marked on your existing drive motor. You could probably test the motor by connecting it to a 12v car battery.

Dynamic Power welders are inexpensive generic welders so it is reasonable to assume that replacement parts will be at the cheaper end of the spectrum.

I can only assume you are using a flux wire. If so, start on the lowest settings ie amps set on 1. Doubling switch on 1. Feed setting on 4-5. That should suffice on thin material (2-3mm). If welding thick steel, set amps to 2 for greater penetration.

Always keep about 5-10mm of wire extended past the gas shield while welding. Most people have problems by welding with the gas shield touching the material. There should be a clearance as above.

On a MIG welder you only adjust the voltage. Higher voltages give a hotter arc and more penetration. The current is controlled by the speed of the wire feed - the higher the wire speed the higher the current. Porous welds are often caused by moving the weld head too quickly. The slag doesn't have time to melt properly and separate from the weld metal. Try slower movement - much slower! If burn-through is a problem, reduce the voltage but allow plenty of time for the weld bead to form.

I'm not sure what you mean, but if it is the gas diffuser you can find them on eBay for around $10. Otherwise, try Gasweld stores. They have a good range of MIG fittings. Good luck!

I don't think a different shield will make any difference to the weld quality. Wire length is important, but a different shield won't prevent you from keeping the right length.

Barry is correct.

If youre using gasless wire, it doesnt matter what type of shield you have. Make sure you maintain at about 12mm of wire past the end of shield when welding. The shield in this case acts only as mechanical protection of the tip.

I did the same in the beginning. I was about to swap the polarity but decided against it. I carried out 2 hours of testing instead. In the end I was able to weld 1mm tube without blowing holes. Both switches at 1. Speed at 5-6.

6mm plate had good penetration with double amperage switch at 2. You need to play with the feed speed.

Conclusion: I have great success with the welder unmodified. Practice. Practice. Practice.