EvaKool Fibreglass RF60 Questions & Answers

Hi Warren. If your fridge is working fine with a 240V power supply and struggling on 12V, this would indicate an issue somewhere in your 12V power supply. If the fridge doesn't have a high enough voltage to operate, the compressor will struggle to kick in.

We suggest troubleshooting you 12V system and getting a deep discharge test done on your dual batteries to check their health as well.

Kind Regards, EvaKool

Hi Warren. Had issue with my RF60 after 8 years. Same deal 240 fine, 12v kicks out just after it starts compressor. Checked original power lead etc, did find soldered exposed positive wire to pin was just touching exposed negative wire to pin , a couple of melted strands but power there same as battery output, taped exposed wire. Was Not the issue. Much hunting about found the negative wire from fixed power lead socket going up to the black power distributor box was getting warm at the first crimp terminal join from factory. Realizing much resistance there cut it out and rejoined . Problem solved. Fridge works as good as new after 15 years of ownership. So story is you have to check everything like fuse ,joins, power leads and wire connections including factory cause we don't live in a perfect world. Never had a thermostat issue but did replace 240 v power block for a quality power regulator with a fan , after 5 years , as original would get quite warm and failed. With all these broken latches etc I can only guess they have changed style as the original rubber over centre latches are still going strong. Have an Engel MT 40 for 4 years good basic freezer. And now have a 35/52 Bushman fridge for future trip to Cape York this year. I like diversity.

Hey mate have you got the updated (thicker 6mm i think) lead with anderson plugs? I had similar problem. Put multi-meter on fridge end and there was substantial voltage drop threw the lead. Always worked well with car running thus extra volts however

No I don't have the 6mm lead . Thanks David I will look into it.

You are covered under Australian law and they cannot not cover the hinges as they are an integral part of the fridge/freezer. Contact the Consumer Affairs and ask them to speak to Evacool on your behalf.

so the cold air can go all around items

The metal pins in the plugs can get knocked loose. I bypassed one of mine years ago and had forgotten I’d done it. All good since.

First of all I would not recommend that you run your fridge/freezer at -15. To answer question at -15 you could almost be sure that what you put in your fridge will freeze. If you must run your freezer so cold block off all the holes in the divider and buy a wireless fridge thermometer that way you can monitor your fridge temperature.

Hi Iain, I have a wired lcd thermometer that I fitted myself and mounted on the compressor cover to monitor temps. A wireless thermometer will do the same, with the advantage of being able to be mounted in the cabin of the vehicle so temps can be checked on the run. When I run the fridge as a dual zone using 240 volts, I set the thermostat dial to 7 with the Normal/Economy switch on Normal which gives a freezer temperature around -10 to -12 degrees celcius and the fridge section cools to around +3-+5 degrees on average. I put my beer and meat closest to the divider and vegies at the other end. I raise or lower the divider a couple of millimeters to regulate the fridge section temperaturer rather than adjusting the dial. If I'm running off battery and solar, I increase the freezer section temperature to around -5 degrees to reduce power consumption which translates to around 5 on the dial and the switch on economy.