Hansa C7 Chipper Questions & Answers

Hi Mike, you are best to make contact with your local Hansa or Honda dealer and they will be best to assist.

Check the spark plug, make sure the shafts are greased and ensure the flywheel is turning smoothly. If it is engine; then Honda mechanic rather than Hansa.

Hi Gavin, Yes we have a blade - anvil gap setting tool available, which is different depending on the machine you have. They can be ordered through your local Hansa dealer - part numbers are: - Model C3e - C5: C5-A008 - Model C7: C7-A014 - Model C13 - C21: CM-A158 The cost of all of these is $45 incl GST plus freight.

Thank you - I shall pass it on to our local dealer. Do you have a good pic of it and if so include it on your NZ and AU websites so all your dealers and customers can know about it. Dealers will love it as it will speed up their servicing of anvil to cutter setting procedures.

A note regarding your Servicing Video on your website - viewable on Utube. It talks about the importance of adjusting the Anvil to ensure the gap is correct to the fixed position cutting blades, but the video pictures over that explanation show repeat shots of adjusting the cutter blades - not the pictures we expect to see of the Anvil being adjusted by its bolts. So the very important Anvil setting is missed out completely. I suggest a re-edit of the video pictures, to show your NEW GAP TOOL being used to set the Anvil correctly.

I have had a Hansa for over 20 years and never heard of this and could have an impact on the quality of the cutting.

Try tightening lock nut a little with some loctite applied to the nut thread

It’s not the lock nuts coming loose. It’s the entire tensioning handle rotating

Hi David, From the fully disengaged position, turn the engagement handle clockwise until you feel it start to resist. From this position, the handle should turn one full revolution clockwise before coming to a stop. If the belt tension is greater than this, it may be causing the engagement handle to unwind by itself. Also when setting the stop for the belt tension it is best to have the engagement handle facing the downward position if possible. Please refer to page 17 of the manual for more information which you can also download off the C7 product page on the website.

Hi Allanah, Thanks for getting in touch. A C7 shouldn’t be going through belts like that, so let’s work out what’s happening. If the machine has just been serviced and the belts are still shredding after around 30 minutes, the most common causes are:

• Belt tension too tight – this is the number one reason belts fail prematurely. • Misalignment of the engine pulley and flywheel pulley – even a few millimetres out can damage belts quickly. • Worn or damaged pulleys – sharp edges or wear grooves can tear a new belt. • Incorrect assembly – if the belt guard or pulleys aren’t fitted exactly as per the manual, the belt can run out of line and wear quickly.

For reference on the correct setup, you can download the C7 manual from our website here: external link 

Hi Wayne, No you don't have to remove the Rotor to tighten the Blade bolts. Yes the inner nut is a little tricky to torque up. So what our mechanics do, is use a Allen key socket on a Torque Wrench and a spanner on the nut, You Torque the bolt through the inlet Access point. As the torque settings are 22nm it is enough to tighten the bolt without stripping the head. If you have issues please call me on 1800 426 722

Thank you very much!

You need to remove the feed in hopper and open the top of the chipping chamber. If it an older model it is tricky but with can be done with a juggle and high risk dropping a nut to the bottom of the chamber and having to retrieve this. Have the nuts a little loose on each blade then ensure you tighten them all up before moving to the next one. The older unit came with a thinner blade and a shim spacer. Newer blades are thicker. Should be able to get 10-15 sharpenings and you know its sharp when the unit pulls in the vegetation.

Hi Mal, Yes setting the blades can be a little tricky. When setting the anvil to the blades we do this with the inside blade only as it is the closest to the center of the rotor. The blade will be 1.5mm from the anvil, closest to the rotor and 2.5mm from the anvil furthest from the rotor. We now have an Anvil to blade setting tool that you can purchase from one of our dealers or from us direct here in Australia. It makes the job a lot easier. Hope this has helped

Thanks heaps, I am using the good old feeler gauges. Thanks again for your response Regards Mal

Can anyone c7 machine mechanic assist me,why my hansa c7 was not started

A few suggestions 1. Fuel quantity and quality. Is the fuel fresh? 2. Is the fuel valve on? 3. Is the ignition switch in the ON position? 4.Are the blades disengaged? 5 . Is the choke in the ON position. Once the engine starts turn choke OFF for engine to run smoothly. 6. If engine doesn't start you may have flooded it. Turn choke off with throttle full open and pull thrust several times to start. If you have really flooded it you will have to remove spark plug and pull thru several times to clear cylinder. Make sure plug is clean and dry before reinstalling. Hope this helps. These are just basic tips and the rest may be best left to a mower shop if your knowledge of engines is limited. Cheers

Can you help me for hansa c7 Honda was not started

To adjust the drive belt tension on the old lever type Model C7, proceed as follows: a. With the machine stopped and the engine cooled down, remove the drive belt cover. b. Lift the drive belt lever up as far as it will go to engage the belts and check the tension. There should be approximately 10 – 15 mm of deflection when the belts are pushed with the fingers. c. Adjust the belt tension using the two adjusting nuts on the threaded rod connected to the drive belt lever. Once adjusted tighten the nuts to lock in place and refit the drive belt cover. If you would like further information please call us on 1800 426 722 or email info@hansaproducts.com.au.

Thank you so much, that's great.

Hi Jeff, there are a couple of methods that you can try to free up the jammed timber: 1. Using a couple of G-clamps, fasten a long piece of wood to the rotor fin and use this as a lever moving it back and forth until the piece of wood comes free. 2. Place a piece of wood against the fin on the cutting disk and use a sledge hammer to turn the cutting disk. This is probably best done in the opposite direction of normal rotation. Hopefully this assists to remove the jammed wood!

For memory in changing the belt you unbolt the motor. Was pretty simple. Just lined it up by eye. The new belt was initially a little tight (as they all are ) but loosened up pretty quickly and now runs perfectly.

Thanks belts are ok the pulley was turning on the shaft to the chipper. I pulled it apart and in the process of reassembly. Doesn’t appear to have a key on the shaft but has some sort of bush hopefully it was only loose.

Sorry, didnt get the gist of your original post. Havent had this issue. Let us know how it goes...

Hello Graham, if you have a pre-2019 model then you would have a biloc which attaches the pulley to the shaft. Ensure your pulleys on the rotor and flywheel are in-line and tighten the biloc and you should be good to go. This probably came loose to due excessive vibration so i would check the condition of the knives, they may need to be sharpened?

You are 100% correct I have reassembled it and it’s almost ready to fire up. Thanks for your advice

All good, happy chipping!

Check your blades. Probably need sharpening. Timber needs to be green for best chipping and anything dead/hard will blunt them quickly. I notice it throws and feeds alot better when they’re sharp. I’ve heard of blokes putting the blades in a vice and using a flap wheel p120 on a grinder to resharpen them. Don’t do the back side though. I use a bench grinder with a stone attachment. Regularly dip the blades in water to stop over heating and buggering up the blade temper. It’s a beast when the blades are sharp but if blunt they tend to tear into bigger pieces and it gets caught in the shute.

Thanks Steve, appreciate the reply, I will check the blades. Have only used green waste so I am surprised that they need sharpening so soon.

As always, check with Hansa. They are very responsive to questions. Occasionally a replacement part is cheaper than a repair. The chute will almost certainly be steel (a fridge magnet will stick to it) but whatever it is made of, a competent welder will be able to repair the crack, try to locate one of those slightly old fashioned workshops that specialise in the repair and maintenance of machinery, sometimes a trip to the country side to a place that does stuff for local farmers is the way to go. Unbolt the chute and take that to them for their assessment and repair. You need to ensure they are the sort of place that understands the kind of welding required for a proper repair. It should not be an expensive job. I'd also check the run-out of the cutter disk (does it wobble when you turn it?) and consider servicing the cutter disk bearings (sloppiness here could be a source of vibration) if it has had 11 years of regular use there are probably a number of things that could do with a look at. Maybe have a chat to a local Hansa dealer, they should be an excellent source of advice..

Yes the inlet chute is made of steel. You will be able to get someone local to repair the inlet chute at a reasonable price. I can almost guarantee the reason you are getting excessive vibration is that your knives are blunt and not cutting like they were designed to do. Instead of slicing the wood the blunt knives are hammering the timber which is causing the vibration throughout the machine. When was the last time you sharpened or changed the knives? We recommend sharpening the knives every 15-20 hours but it does depend on the material you are chipping. We can supply a replacement chute if required.

i normally sharpen them often. i had a brief period where i used blunt knives. but i wont be doing that again. repair by welding?

One really dumb thing I occasionally do is forget to turn the ignition on or still have the cutter engaged. If it was running fine before you left it, the only thing I can think of is you have gum from evaporated fuel. Did you turn off the fuel before it was left? Gum blocks jets an makes things in the carburetor stick. Sometimes it will start and run really badly or if it is bad simply won't start. There are various ways to fix this. Sometimes a proprietary carb cleaner/ fuel mixture will work but often the best fix is to take the carburetor off and do a proper clean. If this isn't something you are comfortable with trying I suggest you talk to your local dealer or small motor shop. The Honda motor is a beautiful piece of engineering and is actually quite easy to work on and it would be a shame to damage it. If the thought of having to move your whole chipper to the repair shop is a problem the motor is easy to take off, 4 13 mm bolts (that is how you replace damaged belts). Check first, but the repair shop will probably be happy to just get the motor to work on.

Hello Brian, please contact us at info@hansaproducts.com.au so we can pass on the details where to purchase a replacement wheel.

Hello Tyler, best to call us on 1800 426 722 so we can try and diagnose the problem as this does not make sense.

Just in case you've not solved the problem, all this happened to me with my C7 on the first day. I could see this as an ongoing problem, so I just added a small piece of 1 inch X 3mm bar at the top of the easiest to get to knife, bent it over and hammered it to fit over the disc, and on the opposite blade added the same size bit of metal to the opposing nut and bolt just to keep the balance right. Works an absolute charm and no more stalling and tightening up!

Strange I have chipped similar without problem provided that the stick goes straight in from the middle of the feed Shute. If it goes on an angle it will jam as it does not seem to feed correctly. Also it will jam easily if there is an abundance of green material ie leaves, blossom etc. don’t try and cut anything thicker. It will not chip the full diameter claimed. Also if you chip something of the diameter you are using often the last 100mm may not chip but will skew on an angle and stall the unit.

Thanks After a couple of hours using the machine it should not be rated at 70mm it should be rated at 50mm. 50-55mm pieces 2m long go through fine but you can hear it’s starting to loose momentum But it won’t chip 60-70mm material that fact it won’t even chip 60 is telling.

Going to weigh up options, keep it or return for another brand

Rather disappointing as it mulches the smaller stuff well is a good weight but only chipping 50mm is limiting