I connected my 40L fridge to the campsite's 240v, there was a power surge which I suspect blew something in the fridge (there was a pop sound). After that the fridge did not come on again when connected to the 240v. However when I connect it to the car's 12v, it works just fine.
Those with similar experience, what could have blown/gone wrong and how can I fix it?
Is there a fuse near the power input?
I dare say it’s the fuse. 15amp blue fuse. If not don’t open the unit. Get someone to have a look. It might lead to other problems. Best of luck.
Hi I have an issue with my fridge, i have checked batteries and alternator with no problems present. My fridge battery will only last approx 3 hrs from turning car off. Fridge is set on eco mode. Do you think issue is fridge itself. Sorry im single female don't have much knowledge of cars and set ups etc. Bought car already set up, fridge always stayed on now goes to E1 in fee hours of car being turned off.
How big is the battery? Was it working ok before? Is it being charged from a dc/dc charger? Was the car running for long enough to charge the battery? If yes, then it sounds like your battery is on its way out or has dropped a cell. Drop in to a battery place and have it load tested.
It only gets charged from Alternator while driving, i drive car 1.5 hrs daily. It cant be battery as i took mine out which 148amp hour charged it and put it on another fridge and works fine. New battery in which 104amp hour. Can compressor in fridge be working constantly draining power
Ditto! Ask a battery supply workshop rep to test the battery. More detail… I put a cheap adapter between my 12v socket and fridge to keep an eye in voltage supplied to the fridge. It doesn't tell all the story but helps. There are different types of alternate (2nd) car batteries. Most common is sealed deep cycle lead/acid. When driving the car your alternator will be (hopefully) charging the battery at about 13.9v. When you turn the car off there is typically (should do this) an isolator (ie red-arc isolator) that disconnects the 2nd battery from your starter battery so you don’t run the starter battery flat!!
Now… note that 50% charge equates to about 12.2v. True! Because at that voltage the poor little blighter is starting to struggle to push your 4amp current and still maintain the 12v voltage for your fridge to be happy to run. The battery is a current delivery device. Think of the voltage as a water pipe and the current-ampage as water flow. The battery has limited ability to maintain the current delivery (3amps approx) at the required voltage (12v) So without the car running , running the fridge, waiting a minute for the isolator to click in your battery will read … 12.89v/100% 12.23v/50%, 11.96v/30% Battery experts recommend only discharging 40-50% before recharging. Often driving around town is not enough for a deep cycle 2nd battery to recharge completely.
Buy yourself a 200 watt solar blanket with a charge controller ( a must!!). ‘If using Solar charging then you will need a Solar Controller or Solar Regulator to avoid over-charging the battery.’(ref: external link … and charge up your 2nd battery by plugging it into the 12v fridge socket in your car in your camp or driveway. (NB battery any lower than 11.9v and the battery will possibly be damaged and its life drastically shortened if recoverable at all…but read on).
Your fridge has 3 way switch that detects this voltage supply and switches off (E1 alarm) the fridge if the battery drops to these switched levels to protect the battery: find it near the power cord input to the fridge. fridge switch cut out levels High (11.7v) mid (10.7) low (10.2v) from the specs manual. The cut in level after a cut out is 1v higher.
I find those figures a concern but anyway. So if you set it to high then the fridge will error E1 when your battery drops to around 11.7v. Recommended!
I got my figures off various internet sites and happy to be corrected on the values but the principal is same
external link
Thank you so much for all the info ill go through it all and work it out, appreciate your time and help
What dose HH mean on my fridge?
What does HH mean on a Ironman fridge
What is HH on a Ironman fridge mean
I have the same problem dose anyone know how to fix this while camping at the moment I have just turned the left bin off altogether
Hi Christian, sorry to hear you're having trouble with your fridge. Can you please send an email directly to Ironman 4x4 at info@ironman4x4.com including your fridge model, and a photo of the error code on the screen? Hear from you soon.
Where is the set button the button beside my on off button is for turning it from max to eco. If the fridge is working on 240 volts should I be able to hear it thanks in advance
What dose E1 mean please
Low Amps to the unit caused by 1. length or gauge of power cord from the fridge to the 12v socket. If you are using a long lead from the socket to your fridge there my be too much voltage drop along it or if that wire is too thin. see below calc. 2. Your battery voltage is too low 12.6v- 100% 12.4v- 75%. 12.2v- 25% and is below the fridge cut out threshold (3 position switch on fridge). battery voltage chart @ external link 3. (check specs battery voltage fridge cut off relates to your low-medium-high voltage level cut off). Ironman state their Cube products are 55W and draw 4.5Amps (Watts = Volts x Amps) 4. test: Try the fridge connected direct to the 12v battery if you can - if it works there but not at the socket you have a voltage drop or low current carrying cable problem or battery on edge of bad. 5. Check your 12v socket in car wiring, power lead/length to fridge is capable of delivering 4.5Amps ). This wire size calculator is good: external link (i.e 4.5Amps/4meters wire from battery to fridge = 1.8836mm area/1.5486 diameter wire (minimum, and size written on the wire sheath usually) which is class 14AWG (bigger AWG = Smaller wire) AND most 12v sockets are wired in 14-16 AWG anyway. Fridge Specs: external link
I replaced my battery (but I checked all of above too first)
Wish I could find a thermostat for mine - We just call it a freezer now.
Set on Celsius, keeps changing to Fahrenheit? Have tried the set button. plus the up button to display what it's on, but no luck? Nothing is touched, just changes.
What is an E1 code
When your battery drops below running power it comes up with E1..error 1 i normally start my Ute for a bit to charge an it kicks back in
My ironman fridge freezer 40lt comes Er1 and it not working?
Hi John. E1 is battery protection. Means your battery has dropped power.
Tried everything changed leads am running it on 240 volts at the moment still Er1 code
I have found Ironman products to be of very poor quality. Best to avoid the brand.
Im pretty sure Er1 is controler or thermistor fault. E1 is battery protection. You can pull the thermostor out and test it with another. Unfortunately im not sure what ohm they are
My fridge keeps freezing my beers it’s set on 4 degrees any hints on what the problem could be?
Hi mine does it to but it seems to be when it is close to being empty, the only thing I can suggest it turn it down as it gets empty or keep it full of beer.
Cheers
Don’t buy Ironman products, I have found them to be the best of both worlds, cheap and nasty.
Thermostat may be faulty.
I also have this problem just recently, set to 4°c and it's cooling items down to -9°/-10°. Guessing it's the thermosistor, will try to get it looked at this week.
My iron man 40l fridge has stopped working on 240v any help would be appreciated? thanks
Buy a Brass Monkey
My fridge has all of a sudden changed from reading Celsius to farenheigt what has happened? How do I fix?
Please refer to your user manual as it will show how to change back. Or if no manual you can google the manual on the Ironman website.
hi
ring ironman they have a very good sport team that will help you out.
Can anyone tell me if the ironman4x4 40 litre fridge hold down base clips available anywhere, triangular shaped?
Frank
Hi,
My fridge is displaying Er1.... not E1.
I cant reset it, any help would be appreciated.
Cheers Steven
ring iron man it self they have very good support staff there who will know the answer
Thermistor or controller. Most likely thermistor.
Hey guys I have the 40l ironman fridge and I know that er1 on 12volt through your batter means low current but when I plug it into my 24volt lead on the main power it still comes up with The same er1 message what can I do to get ride of the er1?
Read your manual's troubleshooting section and do a reset
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