Rover Regal Questions & Answers

Hi Garry- No to the flat blades with a catcher. You need to fit the blades with an upswept wing so that a draught is created to help the grass clippings get into the catcher. I use GA Power Equipment Spares Blades Part number BNC6336 for an 18 inch to 20 inch blade disc. Any of the mower spares shops should be able to supply you with them.

Hi Sharon. My guess is it is a dirty air cleaner element or you have a fuel blockage of some sort. You may need to visit a mower repair to get the carburettor checked. Good luck.

Thanks turned out to be dirt in carnie bowl I cleaned it and it going well

Consider changing the blades via the grass catcher flap at the rear. I use a rope or bungee cord to hold the flap open, put the mower up on a table for easier access. Removing the plate is obviously easier but unless you torque the 3 small bolts and main stem bolt properly you run the risk of the plate coming loose and distorting the plate holes from centrifugal movement. If you must remove the blade plate, tilt the mower at an appropriate angle with the fuel tank at the top. Wear a glove on your non dominant hand and hold the plate while using a ratchet bar and socket on the main bolt. After changing the blades, put the 3 small bolts in loosely, then fit the main center bolt and tighten to recommended torque, followed by the three small bolts. Be careful not to over tighten the 3 bolts as you will strip the thread very easily. After a blade change, I do a short cut run on the lawn, stop the mower and then check the plate again to make sure it is secure.

when I did it, I think it was a REVERSE thread,, also I used an old bed sheet and wrapped it around the shaft time after time in a circular motion until the cavity was well packed

Thanks

Hi David. Very difficult to remove the wheels. After removing plastic wheel outer cap you will see a castellated circular spring ring on the shaft. These are not designed to come off without damaging them. If you can get replacements on line then you could try prying off the castellated ring. Good luck

Hi Paul. I use 91 and have used 94 and 98 but there is no point and it doesn't run any better. Are you priming the fuel bulb enough. I do about a dozen presses. Too many and you will flood it. If you are still having problems check and clean your spark plug and if you pull multiple times and no start, remove the plug quickly and see if it is wet with fuel. Check air filter for cleanliness. You can remove the plug and rest it on the cylinder plugged in and pull to see if you have spark. It is either no fuel supply, bad (non sparking) plug or not enough air. Good luck.

I use any grade of petrol no difference from the cheapest to the dearest

external link  I hope this is what you need.

If you cant get the parts then it is a bin job, My clutch jammed on I stripped all out and cleaned and greased it well all OK now. try this as they are prone to seizing up if rusted.

simple use standard adaptor on the market for any attachment for a hose to spray etc. Hoselock style. works well at tick over and full water pressure. You will also have to turn it in its side to finish the job also the drive mechanism has to be cleaned by taking off the plate hosed dried and greased these seem to seize after about 5 years causing the lawnmower to stick in drive. use WD40 and work at the mechanism to free it the water proof grease needs to be done every two years to keep it right

Thank you for your response.

10 minute repair and the cord costs $4 from Bunnings.

What you describe is exactly what happens when a battery is near the end of it's life or goes prematurely bad. If it's under warranty, best to take it to a Rover dealer.

Works fine - releasing the bar stops the motor. I have no problem with the way it works.

I tie it off with nylon string is a pain but even if you let it kill the engine every time you empty the catcher this mower starts very easily and quickly. Personally I've never had an issue with it, just tie it off til your finished.

Hi, I use Premium 98 for all of my small engines however there has not been any noticeable differences with maintenance or life out of any of them. It's a personal choice only, I believe any grade octane petrol would be suitable. Hope that answers your query. Cheers.

I use the best fuel available because 98octane keeps your motor cleaner and gives a bit more power too.

It costs very little extra for such a small tank, so it's a no brainer for me.

Use any clean fuel containing less than 10% ethanol. They're a small engine, not fussy. 98 is a waste of money and won't give any more power as these engines can't make use of additional timing available with higher octane. That said they don't use that much to begin with.