Bondall Monocel Gold Marine Grade Clear Timber Varnish Questions & Answers
VerifiedI'm using exterior clear varnish spray can and it was fine for one minute and now it just stopped. Sometimes little bubbles comes out of the nozzle. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you
Maybe don't spray it use a roller and brush . Or lay it off with a roller
Where can I buy this
Bunnings!
can this product be used as a sealant over gloss finished paint
I do not know ! contact Bondall
There’s really no point. Gloss paint has resins in it to make it completely waterproof. The timber varnish would add nothing and probably wouldn’t stick to the paint anyway.
I have used a Marine grade Monocel clear varnish on my wooden bench tops .. Looks good but it does mark . A friend has suggested that I give it a light sand back and use a Monocel Clear Varnish for timber ... Is this a good idea?
Hi i do not know sorry , i think you need a product desighned for bench tops , that sets Hard !
Hi. I'm about to lime wash a table top and I was wanting a very durable varnish to seal it. It is going on a verandah so needs to be weather proof. Will this product yellow the white paint? And would I still thin the first coat?
This would be perfect to do the job but being an oil based product It will yellow ( to a degree) no matter what. Being that it is a clear product so unlike for example a white oil based paint the oil has something to contrast the yellow off ( being mixed with pigment)so if you were to paint fresh white after 5 years you would see a big difference where as your white lime wash has already been put down ( assuming it is a water based lime wash) the oil based varnish will not be as noticeable. More yellowing seems to be more noticeable if placed inside, low light areas compared to outside exposed to elements getting sunlight . If you want to avoid Intergrain do a varnish exterier called AllClear which would work better being water based which won't yellow. It's about $10-$15 more then this product for a litre.
Thanks the all clear may be the way to go. It's going on a cafe verandah so will get a certain amount of weather but not the extremes. I will see if I can find that product and may use it.
I have renovated a timber outdoor setting using Bondall Monocel Gold Marine Grade GLOSS. I am happy with the result but now find that SATIN may have been a better option. Can I apply a coat of SATIN over the GLOSS surface?
You can but you will still need to sand down slightly to take off the gloss level as you would of had to between each coat of your gloss anyways :)
This product is peeling on my hand rails and I find it impossible to remove. I have tried thinners etc. can you advise me on how t remove please?
Diggers do a varnish remover, only other option is to sand.
This product sounds like what I should use so just asking. I'm about to attach a blackbutt handrail to my external deck perimeter , partly shade but it will get the afternoon westerly sun. I have researched and looked at the blogs and comments and feel like this is the product I need to use . Thoughts please. Ross
You can definitely use this product , being marine grade though just make sure that water is only used to clean. This product won't nessessarily seep deeply into the timber and act more like a barrier. If you are chasing a natural finish a decking oil (more upkeep) might be better as this product will give off a 'finished look' . If still using this product and a more natural finish , Satin finish is a better option.
But to answer your question. This product is perfect to use for your application.
I have just stained my timber front door with a cabots oil based stain, I have applied two coats of stain. I have purchased a Bondall Clear Timber Varnish (Satin). My question is do I need to dilute the first coat of varnish with the turps as recommend on can or can I just apply straight from can without dilution?
Thanks in advance.
Dilution is mainly required to help the layers stick and allow that first layer deep into the timber more. I would not recommend this product if the door is in direct sun all the time and go for the marine varnish
Hi, is the clear timber varnish completely heat resistant, even to a direct heat such as a hot saucepan?
Heat resistant yes, but not from direct heat off a boiled pot or fry pan, no bench top or surface coating is designed for such use but items have been created for that purpose. Eg. Fibreglass Surface protectors that are designed to go on bench tops. Warm pots that have cooled on the stove would be fine but too hot and exposed to the varnish for a long period of time will start to 'melt' the varnish and your pan may stick to it and or leave a visable mark of where it had been. My suggestion would be to get a timber cutting board use that on its own or coat it in Rustoleums Pot Belly Black or another heat coating.
Hi
How much should you think your mix out on each coat? What % of turps vs product?
If you're using brush, roller, or wiping on, I would stick with what it says on the can: dilute by 10-15% for 1st (sealing) coat over raw timber, then use straight for later coats. For spraying you probably will need to dilute a little (10-15%). Unless you can measure the viscosity, best to dilute bit by bit and test on scrap or cardboard until it flows evenly.
I spray with the cheapest Wagner HVLP unit (W550) but using their bright spray head which works better for varnish than the standard head, which gave me grief. It comes with a viscosity measuring dipper. The undiluted varnish takes 70 secs to drain, and Wagner's recommendation is 15-30 secs so I dilute to achieve this (mixing in the sprayer bottle). It does not take much to do this! Bit by bit is the way to go, testing on cardboard before I start on my project. Nothing worse than having to strip a finish and start again :p
I'm applying epoxy to the outside of a timber canoe to get a nice show through of the grain. Once epoxy is finished, plans say the canoe should be coated with a marine grade varnish. I've used the Monocell Gold before and found it to be a great product, however I have never applied it over an epoxy finish. What grade (grit) sandpaper should I use to get good adhesion? Was thinking I'd use the satin.
Nothing lower then 240 grit. Be careful to make sure you check that both are oil based as you can now get water and oil based epoxy as long as they are the same you won't have any dramas
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