28 questions from our users
I have a gate and side panels made up of 90 x 15 mm dressed cedar. To put it mildly, the Sikkens finish has gone well beyond recovery and is starting to embarrass the boss. I need to strip back to bare timber and start again from scratch. I have previously sanded Sikkens down to bare cedar, so I know it can be done, but it is time-consuming. Is there another, easier method? What is "blasting" that is mentioned by experts? Paint stripper? Note that access on one side of the gate is limited, due to bespoke metal framing, so a bit of hand sanding would be required. I cannot remove the cedar, strip, then replace. I thought about replacing the gates with new, but the quotes were insane. Any help gratefully received.
Hi Chris...I am currently stripping sikkens from my deck and it is not easy.My top coating was non slip over cetol and the sikkens non slip is extremely hard to remove .I tries stripper but all strippers are not the same and none of them worked on the non slip. Is yours just the stain???I found the best way was to use heat gun first and remove as much as you can then get to it with a orbital sander, the orbital is best as it does not have to go with the grain of the cedar.After the orbital I then hand sanded to smooth...there is no easy way to prepare outside timber, it is a pain and that's just it. Blasting is I think sand blasting,,,they use this on steel girders and it is not what you are after, it is a professional job.Please don't get rid of the cedar, it is a great timber and lasts forever.When you are done think of using Johnstones water based oil as a covering. Three coats first up, one hour between coats, and then one coat as required. It is a great product. Good luck
Cheers, Gavin, no easy answer obviously. I have one coat of Cetol HLS undercoat and three coats Sikkens supernatural top coat. I'll borrow my son's heat gun. I also have two litres of Xylene left over from another job, and apparently that is an effective paint remover, albeit nuclear strength. If you ever want to explain to a child the meaning of "a stitch in time" bring them to see my gate. A one-hour job every two years has turned into two days' hard labour, through neglect on my part.
No real easy way Chris. Ditto Gavan's reply. For all our cedar joinery we used paint stripper and then sanded. It's time consuming to work on tight spaces. After 20 years we painted all our joinery but our deck, rails and poles are all done in Sikkens and the maintenance is ongoing. If your gate is in full sun I would paint it but then we have a big cedar house to maintain!
What precautions are needed when using Sikkens tannin remover with new external stairs constructed from mix of original harwood treads [ends sealed with paint primer] with new merbau balustrades, posts, landings, please?
Is there a clear joint sealer I can apply to prevent leaching of cut edge protectant paint ? Sounds like best blue tape won't survive this stuff!!]
Sikkens is a semi transparent oil or water based product. I've only used the oil based products as they soak into the timber. For exterior step treads it's good to let the new timber weather for 4 or more months to let tannins leach out naturally then sand and prime etc., according to instructions. Get rid of the painted ends by sanding back to bare timber. For extra protection I used Cetol Filter 7 as an extra final coat. Our hardwood treads split a little. Use a black Sikaflex Pro plus or anothet brand of Mastik. Wipe off with turps for a great finish.
What’s better for hand rails, doors and windows in the sun? Filter 7 or extol deck, both to go over hlse.
Hi What Sikkens product should I use on my new Merbu deck, it has no roof so total exposure in Melbourne.
Thanks for your help
Hi Chris.Sikkens is a good product but way over priced at about $33/litre.The product is Cetol decking oil, available at most hardwares. To stain your deck requires 3 coats, each coat 24 hours apart which is a real pain if the deck is in daily use.If you use Sikkens Cetol do not use the Sikkens non slip over the Cetol. The non slip is a joke, it attracts dirt and eventually forms a crust over the timber, hiding the grain. I am currently using Johnstones deck stain made by Taubmans at about $25/litre. It requires 3 coats, initially, but only one hour apart and walk on after 4 hours.So you can stain in the morning and it is ready to go in the afternoon.You MUST use a tannin remover if it is new timber.The best advice is to see a proper paint supplier (not the kids at Bunnings) tell them that you have new Merbau and ask for their opinion.
I'm still happy with Sikkens but it is expensive. New Merbau requires the use of Powerprep or other tannin remover. Sikkens recommend leaving a new deck to weather from 4 to 13 months. We did that but still used Powerprep and then Cabots Deck Clean. Then choose the colour stain you want out of the Cetol Hsle oil or waterbased range. We always choose oil because it is absorbed into the timber. Then 2 coats of Cetol deck natural. In high rxposure areas I also use Cetol Filter 7 which buys me more time before recoating. Our house includes 20 timber forest poles and hardwoos beams. The product is superior for interior hardwood and joinery.
Hi there, Can I use Sikkens Cetol on a deck that has been oiled 12 months ago?
How do I prep it?
Marie..When you change from one deck oil/stain to another all manufacturers recommend you strip back to bare boards.You can try (if possible) a small area in an area that is not in a very visible area and see how it looks.If you try this the prep is to use a deck cleaner (I use Flood powerlift as it is made in Australia), you "paint" this on, wait for the reaction,scrub with a stiff brush,wait 15minutes and then gerni off.The directions are on the pack.Dont forget with the cetol,for the initial coat, that it takes 3 coats, each 24 hours apart.It is very expensive and I do not think it is worth it.What ever you do (if you proceed with the cetol) is use the Sikkens non slip over the top of it.The non slip is a magnet for dirt and it builds up to the point you cannot see the grain.I stripped my deck back and used Johnstones (made by Taubmans in Australia).It is a water based oil stain.You apply 3 coats of this in the first instance but only need to wait one hour to re stain and can be walked on after 4 hours.Good luck with it but decks are a pain.
How long should we leave the deck after application of CETOL HSLe before putting furniture back in place & using the deck?
Hi all, I often see people talking about when re-staining a deck they sand it first, I understand if the deck is in bad shape but if I am re-staining after only 12 months and the deck hasn't gone grey why would I sand it, cant I just clean it then stain?
Craig...if the deck is in good condition I would recommend using a good deck prep (Powerlift or similar) first then use the stain.The deck preps are good in that they get to the dirt etc in the deck and then you can just gerni it off. With powerlist you "paint" it on and when you see a reaction scrub the deck with a stiff brush (not steel) leave for 10 - 15 minutes and gern it off. Dont let the prep dry out on the deck. The instructions are on the container and your deck will look fine afterwards
I used cetol HLS then put on cetol deck but by mistake instead of the second coat of cetol deck I mistakenly used cetol HLS can you recommend what to do now
I have 2 cedar chaise lounges, coated with Sikkens 13 years ago and badly needing a recoat. My local PPG folks sold me Cetol and said that all I needed to go was sand tho old finish. I sanded and gave it a good heavy spray and the applied the Cetol. It has a varnish-like sheen and I think it won't go away after drying. Will it still protect the furniture? Will it look ok? Should I give it a second coat?
What preparation do you need to do to deck before reapplying sikkens Halsey to deck.
We have a 10 x 10 m sq peaked outside area we lined it with blond Australian marine ply and prepared it accordingly moderate humidity and temperature the colour is beautiful , we now have great slabs of what appears to be mold stains growing under the Sikkens it's also happening on our western cedar garage doors we live in Brisbane so it's not that is more humid , what can we do it is so very disappointing a lovely area wrecked
We built a hardwood timber pole house so I've just about experienced every problem with timber. This problem is caused by fungal spores on the timber especially in humid climates. I wash new and old timber with Cabots Deck clean or Intergrain Reviva which kills spores. Unfortunately once it's in the timber grain it's almost impossible to get out.
Can I use a different product after having used Sikkens Cetol HLSe and Cetol Deck as finish? The area exposed to sun has badly faded after only a few months. Quite disappointing because the product is very expensive.
I’ve accidentally applied Sikkens Filter 7 Plus first over sanded timber posts, I meant to apply the Cetol HLSE first but am very happy with colour.
Do I need to sand it off and apply the HLSE or is it safe to coat over the Filter 7 Plus, or just give the Filter 7 three more coats?
Hey Tony, once the product is down mate id say leave if your not confident in stripping back the post back to bare, its a huge job even for an experienced painter like myslef. Once the timber has weathered id say 12 to 24 months you could probably sand it back them as it will be easier to take off previous coats. Then you can apply the HLS then filter7.
Good luck mate
Can I use any other deck oil after I have used Sikkens cetel?
A sikkens distributor said no but maybe just a sales pitch
We found the Sikkens provided a paint or varnish like coverage, which effectively sealed the surface. This makes later touch ups or reapplying to faded areas difficult. Oil based preparations that soak into the timber allow for later reapplication, whereas the Sikkens seals the timber. Can't recommend the product.
I’ve put a first coat of Sikken Cetol hlse on a previously treated deck. 24 hours on the deck is still tacky. Should I wait for it to dry or can I recoat while tacky please?
I don't pretend to be an expert on Sikkens product however I have used the product extensively. The Application data sheet for the Sikken's Cetol state's that you should
wait a minimum of 24 hours between coats at 20 degrees Celsius. I have always applied the second coat after 24 hours with no problems however I was always doing the coats in spring or Summer, the cooler months might cause the oil not to harden as quickly. Maybe leave for another 24 hours.
I have always left the final coat for a week before walking on the deck to give it time to set and harden correctly. (no matter what product I was using).
I hope this is of help to you,
When applying my 2nd coat of hlse cetol is is very cloudy it has had 30 hrs drying time a warm dry weather?????
Do I keep going???
wanting to remove sikkins cobal oil based deckinoil witch products work the best to entirely remove the decking oil an recorrect the redwoods ph
I am just finishing the removal of Sikkens oil on my merbau deck, these are the steps I used.
1. Clean with a Karcher water cleaner
2. Use Intergrain PowerPrep (little expensive $76 but did what it claimed it would) this brought all the oil to the surface.
3. Clean the PowerPrep with a Karcher water cleaner again, to remove the oil on top
4. Use intergrain reviva as the final step to prepare the timber for the new treatment.
These steps got rid of 95% of the previous Sikkens product and took a day to completer. (mine was a big deck)
I am now waiting on the weather to improve to use the new treatment.
It is subjective as to what treatment you like however I have just done my Pergola merbau floor (5mx3m) with
1. Intergrain UltraPrimer
2. Itergrain DWD
This was there recommended Trishield Application Process which I followed.
The results where fantastic with a great natural finish.
I have talked to other professional floor finishers and they also recommend the intergrain Ultradeck.
Could not be more happier with the final outcome. I hope my large deck will look as good as my Pergola.
Hope this is of help.
I dont want to change the colour of my deck.
It is a new merbau deck. Can i just put cetol deck on or do I have to use cetol hlse first. I just want natural colour. Also I originally was going to use ultra integrain but have decided to use sikkens but I have used the integrain tannin and cleaner products...will this make a difference?
Just thoroughly wash and dry the timber first. Use a lambs wool applicator to apply the cetol deck and you will love the result.
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