Giantz 62cc 22" Chainsaw Questions & Answers

The rocker switch should be marked "0" and "I". Push the "I" side for 'RUN' (start) and "0" for 'STOP'. Hope this helps.

Turn it on its side and open the screw on cap .make sure you don't put it in the petrol one

Wow….buddy you got yours to start and actually cut something. Your more qualified than I

Mine did the same you must be sucking in air from somewhere. I ended up swapping the carby out .made no difference. All the adjustment in the world made no difference. I think the air leak was getting sucked in around the motor were the top half is joined to the bottom half of the engine. Gave up in the end .now it's a spare parts saw

Petrol Powered Chainsaws Baumr-AG The adjustment screws are generally located on the starter cord side of the unit. The high speed and low speed mixture screws are generally marked "L" and "H", respectively. In the adjacent image, idle speed is (A), low speed mixture is (B) and high-speed mixture is (C). Factory Settings Each adjustment screw has a general "factory setting", which is measured from the adjustment screw being rotated "IN" (right / clockwise) until fully seated (but not tight). From this point, the setting is made by counting the number of full rotations of the screw "OUT" (rotate left / anti-clockwise). Factory settings are: • Idle Speed - Approximately 5 turns out. • Low Speed Mixture - Approximately 2.5 turn out. • High Speed Mixture - Approximately 2 turns out. Use the factory settings as the basis for tuning. Set all adjustment screws to factory settings, then test the engine before further tuning. Use a suitable flat-blade screwdriver and ensure that the screwdriver is properly engaged with the adjustment screw before rotating. Tuning 1. Start and allow the engine to idle until it is warmed up - tuning a cold engine will result in rich running when the engine is warm. If the engine does not idle, use the throttle to keep the engine running ("blip" the throttle; do not run the engine continuously at high speed). 2. Adjust Idle Speed - Rotate the adjustment screw one quarter (¼) turn at a time - rotate "IN" (right / clockwise) to increase idle speed; rotate "OUT" (left / anti-clockwise) to reduce idle speed. Set the speed so the engine idles as fast as possible without engaging the clutch. Never set the idle so the saw chain rotates when the throttle is released. If the engine will not idle, adjust the low speed mixture (step 3). 3. Adjust Low Speed Mixture - Rotate the adjustment screw one quarter (¼) turn at a time - rotate "IN" (right / clockwise) to lean the low speed mixture; rotate "OUT" (left / anti-clockwise) to richen low speed mixture. Rotate the screw IN until the engine begins surging or wants to stop - this is the lean adjustment position. Make a note of the number of rotations of the screw to reach the lean adjustment position. Then, rotate the adjustment screw OUT - the engine should start running better. Keep rotating the screw OUT until the engine starts to load up - this is the rich adjustment position. Make a note of the number of rotations of the screw to reach the rich adjustment position and compare it to the lean adjustment position. Then, rotate the screw IN to a position where the engine idles best - it should be about midway between the rich and lean position settings. At this point, you may have to re-adjust idle speed (step 2). 4. Adjust High Speed Mixture - Rotate the adjustment screw one quarter (¼) turn at a time - rotate "IN" (right / clockwise) to lean the high speed mixture; rotate "OUT" (left / anti-clockwise) to richen high speed mixture. Rotate the screw OUT until the engine begins slowing and running roughly at full throttle. Then, rotate the adjustment screw IN - the engine should start running better. Keep rotating the screw IN until the engine reaches maximum speed. Then, rotate the screw OUT one eighth (1/8) to one quarter (¼) of a turn to richen the air/fuel mixture for engine cooling purposes.

Hi Harry, with the handle rotating it could be unsafe when operating.

Hi harry mine does the same. Try sliding a piece of old bycycle inertube over the pole cut to length of the handle .then reattach the handle and do it up tight .might stop it from slipping on the pole .hope it helps cheers steve

idle adjustment screw may need attention, screw clockwise to increase idle speed. Not too much as increased revs may cause chain to start moving. WARNING, don't loose the air cleaner cover, it's hell to get another 1 !!!!!!

the bulb has 2 spigots, reverse the pipe connections and you should be fine

I have never had mine running very unsatisfactory response to my complaints. I eventually gave up.

It has an air cleaner, not sure if there is carburetor adjustment.

Thank you dean

yes there is an aircleaner on my 62cc model . Low and high speed mixture screws and idle speed screw . When u have it adjusted well it does cut ok if the chain is sharp .

Just have a look on Ebay for parts in China. The hard part is figuring out what they call them, and distinguishing them because they won't say "Giantz". You may have noticed that many of these chainsaws just have different brand names, but are basically the same chainsaw. There are only two or three actual different types, and you can tell by the different outer plastic shell.

I take the view that unless you can maybe find the parts cheap from China, or one going cheap to cannibalize on Gumtree, the Giantz and equivalent chainsaws are basically disposable chainsaws. Take off the plastic side cover and screws, the air filter and the bar and chain to keep as spares and throw the unit in the bin. Regards.

Many thanks for your advice Renata. I tend to agree with you regarding them as disposable. Originally I was going to hire one for a large tree I needed to cut up, but saw this chainsaw at the same price so it has paid for itself already. Apart from the engine mounts it has been a great chainsaw. Cheers Alan

Chainsaw chains always come loose. To do up the chain unloosen the two main screws, pull the front of the bar up with one hand, tighten chain via its screw, and while still holding the bar up, tighten hard the closest screw first, then tighten the next one second. Chains come loose in exact same way in my Husqvarna, Gardenline and Talon chainsaws - nothing unusual about it happening with Giantz.

If you cut a bunch of branches bundled together, the chain comes looser more quickly than just when cutting big logs.

As for the oil, mine isn't doing it, but I did have another do it. Make sure the chain-oil channel is unblocked in chainsaw and in the actual bar. Try adjust the chain-oil flow underneath the unit. Sometimes - if you are somewhere hot and haven't used the machine in a while, oil seeps out when machine hasn't been used in a while - you go to use the machine and oil comes out just by lifting the unit up. Then you use it next day, and all is fine.

Good luck.

all chains do loosen up . and need constant bar adjustment . The amount of experience you have determines how you maintain your bar and chain , frequency of sharpening etc . Old dry hardwood is hard on chains. Green timber with sap flowing is much easier on your chain .

There are plenty of 22" bars on Ebay. Type in "Chainsaw Bar Fits Giantz". Or check out any other ad that has 22" bar for .325 Pitch, 058 Gauge, and NOT any 3/8 pitch ones.

Petrol tank is at the back left hand side - near the handle with the trigger.

Oil tank is at front left hand side - adjacent to the chain bar. Regards.

With chainsaw on its side so that you can fill it, the oil goes in the left hand side tank (i.e the one closest to chain bar) and the fuel goes in right hand side tank (i.e the one closest to the back handle with the trigger).

If you don't know that ?? Do not start it or you will have a terrible accident.Start with a small chainsaw 30 cc' and 14 in bar absolute maximum.