15 questions from our users
Hi I have a 2008 RRS L320 4.2 S/C V8 and the auto feels like its flaring in 3rd gear it doesnt feel right Ive serviced the trans a couple of weeks ago and done the adaptive clear and relearn but now its flaring badly from first to second not sure whats going on or going to happen next as its my first rangerover?
Hi all out there in RR world.....a couple of questions for the discerning RR owner. I am looking at purchasing a 2009 RR TDV8, Sport model, it has done 129,000 km. Can anyone enlighten me to the probability of problems with the turbo, the reliability of this vehicle, even though it is 9 years old, and really how expensive are they to service and fix?
I am looking at various models of RR wondering what to purchase. I have been told the pre 2008 Sport's were prone to Air Suspension problems, the Diesel's are prone to engine and Transmission failure. I am now thinking of looking for a low mileage earlier L322 (around2003) with the BMW or Jag Motor, were there issues with these as well? Which is considered the best RR. I have read the petrol-supercharged versions are the best motors and this appeals to me as I intend to tow a large heavy Caravan with whatever I buy.I already have an ever-faithful 89 3.5 RR with a genuine 160K on the clock; it has a slightly upgraded Engine: Cam,Heads,Extractors,Air Intake,Computer,Manifold etc. Unfortunately she is not up to towing the van and in my old and decrepit state I would like a little more comfort.
All advice will be taken with understanding; for every bad reference there will be a good one, however the quantity of each will determine the final decision.
Thank you in advance.
Great to hear some reviews on the RRS. I’m looking to buy one very shortly.
I would really like to hear any comments and reviews on the reliability of the RRS Supercharged V8 L320. I have seen one go and I was very impressed. Just hoping that extra power doesn’t come with too many hassles/problems?
Cheers in advance
Hi, the V8 SC is the most reliable of the RRS range. Less trouble than the diesel models. But in a older RRS make sure the maintenance,ce has been done properly. This is a 2.5 tonne car and brakes, suspension (air) and wheels / tyres need to /be in good condition and maintained / replaced on time. Go to rrrsport.co.uk for the source of great info.
I bought a RR Sport V8 TDV 2008 2 years ago,they look great and when you put your foot down it takes off and is pretty quiet but the handbrake mechanism seized up, the suspension has never worked right and recently the right front wheel drive shaft gave out on me. It only has 120,000 miles on the clock. In hindsight I should have gone for the Audi Q 5 or 8 or even the VW Toureg.
My range rover sport l320 tdv8 2007 has a problem with low range. It's in high range but the low range light flashes on the dash and the high range flashes in the 4x4 computer in the dash.
When this happens all the dash lights come on and I lose the suspension, sports mode and cruise control.
We have tried to reset the tempest codes but once the light flashes they come up again. Any ideas?
Have a 2007 RRS TDV6 where the transmission has failed and needs to be replaced. Has anyone had a problem with transmissions? Message that came up Transmission fault limited gears available.. HDC fault, suspension lowered.
If you listen to the sales people its sealed and lasts forever.CRAP
Have the auto serviced at 60k and 20k there after .
I found out the hard way and had to get it fixed & can cost $5000- $7000 dollars
Replace the stop light switch first if it didn't really do what it signalled Suspension lowering, etc. Switch has another set of points which get soot on from stop light points, these other set of points send messages to computer management systems, re. cruise control, you are applying brakes ect. Soot causes micro switch to send wrong message. Also check your voltage from alternator and battery
My dream car ever since I could remember was the L320 RR. I'm currently looking to buy a second-hand one for weekend get away only. So it will stand in the garage over the week days and then weekends we can travel with it.
However, I have no knowledge of engines at all, so I've always been a bit skeptic about purchasing a RR - based on what I have heard around town that it always gives you problems and comes with a price tag.
I'm currently looking at a 2006 Model, V8 and has 110 000kms on the odo. The body seems very well looked after, so does the inside. Serviced by Land Rover according to the Logbook. I will get an independent inspector out to do a proper inspection before I buy this car.
For those who know their RR. What are the normal symptoms these cars give at 100 000kms? What must I look out for?
The very first of the L320's didn't have a great reputation and they would be the 2005 models and possibly 2006 ones. First up I would get hold of a service book for that model and see what is coming up and how much it costs. Also find out if it has been used as a tow vehicle as I had to replace the torque converter in mine because the clutch inside the converter had worn out.
I think the early auto's were a 5 speed and weren't too flash. They changed to a 6 speed later which was much better and is the one I have and realistically I think the petrol engines are a better deal than the diesels as they will cost much less to maintain in the long run and are cheaper to fix. Those 2 factors more than make up for the poorer fuel economy.
The last thing is if you are handy and have a range rover wrecker nearby you can save a lot of money on simple items over paying rich people's prices for everything new.
I have a 2007 Range Rover Sport and need a tow bar, Anyone recommend someone in Melbourne Victoria to supply?
Parts are on the car so I assume it has had one fitted before. Maybe just the ball but can't see any electrics.
i currently own a toyota prado 2004 and can suck diesel like theres no tomorrow.i also tow a boat about 5.5m at easter meters at easter for about 400km. looking at a 2.7 or 3.6 r/r 2007 or 2008. Any suggestions as to which might be the better around town, highway driving and towing. Thanks.
I have the ranger rover sport tdv8 and average around 10 litres per hundred and if all highway can get this below 9 litres per hundred. I typically do a mix of around town and highway with most of the mileage on the highway. The car is incredible. I only tow a 6 x 4 trailer occasionally but it is a comfortable car. Mine is a 2007 and I recommend it. A mate has a Toyota landcruiser desiel. The technology is much older than my V8 diesel but he tows a caravan and tells me he gets great mileage out of it. Good luck with whatever you choose. BTW the TDV6 also delivers great mileage in the range rover sport series and is much more available. It is slightly better than the V8. Not much difference tho'.
Hi Sparking 123, My 3.6 V8 tows my son's Haines fibreglass offshore boat easily. Boat is 6m so would weigh well over 2 tonnes with trailer I would think.
I tow my 1.3 tonne hydraulic excavator with 4 heavy buckets on my tandem trailer and the car hardly notices it and I am not exaggerating. My R/R is much better on fuel than my old 2004 L/cruiser GXL turbo diesel, but that is to be expected as more modern technology etc.
I have a friend with a 2005 2.7 litre R/R Sport diesel and he tows his Subaru WRX rally car easily with it. I have always been of the opinion that, generally speaking, a large capacity engine (petrol or diesel) will give better fuel economy than a small engine when towing. A "big" engine does it more easily without stressing and often you see better fuel econony.
The Prado is probably the same (if an auto) but on the R/R (ZF auto transmission which is also in Ford Falcon/Territory, BMW X5, Audi, Jaguar, etc) you can use the trans as a manual if you wish. Very handy when towing, particularly long downhill sections.
If you buy a s/h 2.7 litre R/R make sure it had the cam belts replaced at the 100K service. (The V8 has timing chains).
As with any modern diesel engine, be sure to use top class engine oil (synthetic with the R/R) and change the oil at correct intervals. I am a bit over the top with my oil changes, and do them & the oil filter every 7500 klms but the "book" says 15K. I have a past "life" in the earthmoving industry where they chemically analyse oil taken from every wet compartment at the oil change.
I see the lubrication qualities of the engine oil drop off dramatically after around 300 engine hrs. Extended oil changes have been introduced as a 'sales gimmick' and should be avoided if you wish to keep your vehicle/engine for several years!!!
I recently purchased a 2008 08 Range Rover Sport HSE TDV6. Every time the car turns left, right or goes round a roundabout there is an annoying squeaking noise coming from underneath the main part of the car - any thoughts?
Is the squeak a long continuous squeak or just a one off or short series of squeaks?
If continuous, does it go as soon as you straighten up?
Not a vibration type squeak which say, is caused by rear auto mount loose which allows the auto to move sideways slightly and cause something to rub?
Have you tried slightly putting your left foot on the brake pedal to slightly apply the brakes and to see if it goes as it could be the disc pads due to slightly loose wheel bearings?
My email is email@example.com
Mine squeaks as well usually after rain. I've found it to be the anti roll bar bushes and a spray of WD40 usually fixes it for a while. Mine has done quite a bit of bull dust driving and I'm assuming this may have caused the problem. The bushes don't appear to be worn out and they have been intermittently squeaky for a few years now.
I really want an utterly reliable used SUV, and after a lot of research I believe the RRTD8 ticks all the boxes. Definitely NOT a Jeep!
So what steps can anyone here advise I take to ensure I buy a good one, and how to KEEP it that way? :)
Hi, sorry for delay, been away. The main thing is to ensure any prospective car has a full history of servicing. On virtually any turbocharged engine it is essential the oil is replaced at correct intervals or a premature turbo failure can occur due to the bearings not getting good oil/lubrication. The R/R must use the correct Synthetic oil and I have dropped my oil changes from 15,000 klms to 8,000 which is a bit of overkill but it makes me happier. I do it myself and it is a straightforward job. Make sure any R/R you look at also shows the auto oil has been changed by around 80,000 to 100,000 kms at the most. Yes, they say that it is there 'for life", but that 6 speed ZFauto really likes fresh oil. It is an excellent transmission & used in Jaguar, BMW's, Audi's, Ford Falcon, Territory, etc. but you MUST change the oil & filter every 80K or thereabouts. There is an updated better filter & oil pan, look on the web.
My Sport had been very reliable and is currently showing 10.4 Lphk after towing 2 tonnes all Easter.
I use Federal tyres (19") at $236.00 each. Currently done almost 20K and showing no wear at all. That's another thing, if you go larger than 19" you can expect a harder ride less mileage (worse wear) and more costlier tyres, and 19" seems to be the best compromise.
My email is firstname.lastname@example.org if you wish to talk more. Cheers, Richard.
Last year my wife was badly injured in a road accident in which our statesman was written off, since then we have been driving our other car an GQ 2.8 patrol. My wife feels safer in an SUV and it is easier for her enter as her injuries included broken joints in her spine so we want to buy an SUV with good seating and a comfortable ride. As we have never ridden in a Range Rover 3.0 Sports due you think a good secondhand one would fit the bill, as we have looked at many other SUV,s and none seem to suit.
Hi We have always changed our RR after 2 years and been delighted with the retained value. As much as 85% of initial price. I have been told that they loose a lot after 5 years or 100000klm. In my opinion a late model low klm vehicle would be an excellent choice 5 star safety and a lot more comfortable than a Patrol. Regards David
By the sound of it you are looking at a reasonably late model RRS with the 3.0 litre motor. Mine is a 3.6 litre V8 and an older model but with basically the same suspension. It is nearly 9 years old but still rides, steers and brakes beautifully. A friend of mine has a 3.0 litre 2012 RRS and it seems to be very reliable and he loves it. They are not a large 4x4 but are quite capable of towing up to 3.5t. I wouldn't hesitate buying another but you can get a lemon in any make. You should test drive one and I'm sure that you will be impressed.
I have had 3 RR sports' and although the new one is a bit disappointing compared with the advances I was expecting on the old one, I would say I am satisfied. Just one point. Whichever model you buy, make sure the car you choose has the suspension which lowers at the touch of a switch and also that the drivers seat has "lazy entry" which is where the drivers seat lowers for you to get out. These 2 features makes entry and egress much easier which would be a huge benefit for your wife. My choice would NOT be the newest model, however. Try to find a very low mileage example of the previous model, which in my opinion is better.
Looking at a 2007 RRS TDV8. Around 170,000kms. Have I got anything to worry about?
I would be a bit wary as there have been problems with the turbos on the TDV8's. If one of them goes this can be quite costly. Also I would be checking for any front 'knocking' of the suspension - this is also a common issue with higher mileage vehicles.
My 2007 RRS TDV8 has done 163,000 kms and is still running well so I can't really comment on turbo issues as has been mentioned by another writer. It has a slight knock in the RHS front suspension and has been there for quite some time but is not causing me any concern. I would add that I was once in the oil industry and one of the most important facts is service history and using the recommended high quality oil (namely synthetic). This will protect turbo bearings from a build up of carbon due to high temperatures and hopefully extend the turbo life.
Are there issues of failure with the turbo chargers of RRS 2006 onwards?
Thinking about towing 20 ft caravan with my 2005 range sport 2.7 d.any tips?
I did not drive the vehicle very often. The vehicle belongs to my ex-wife and she went to a farm occasionally towing a motorcycle trailer. Feedback from her then was that it performed extremely well. The TDV8 engine was a stand out and pretty good on fuel. The TDV6 is a good engine but lacks the grunt of the V8 which is the reason I optioned up for the TDV8.
The only piece of advice I could offer is for you to seriously consider installing a performance chip to the engine. Aside from an increase in power it does a great job with fuel economy. I purchased one from the UK (not the Australian version as they are seriously lacking in proper calibration). The performance improvement was fantastic, while fuel usage dropped.
I have seen plenty of LR and RR towing big boats and vans. I was also involved in the boating world for a long time and know that you cannot go past either of the Landcruiser/Patrol/LR - RR as they all have a 3500kg towing capacity.
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